So, how light can a Kimber Hunter be? A build thread.

[Trackselk]

Thanks, mine is a 6.5CM. I don't think my scale does hundredths of an ounce, and appears to round up at .06+. The carbon/ti handle in the pic also came from the 24hr guy, and weighs .6oz. I should have sent it in for cerakote also, but oh well.
With my complete Ascent bolt on the scale it appears to be the same weight sans handle, so this appears to be the lightest option available, and the same CNC(?) Program as kimber uses for fluting bolts.

 

[mtwarden]

Looks like I'll be sending him some work

 

[jpndave]

Weights of several Kimber 84m bolts w/extractors and handles oz/grams listed:

• Uncoated short extractor factory handle 9.28oz/263.1g & 9.28oz/263.1g two weighed
• Coated (Ducks Unlimited versions - coated at the lug area and back where the handle and safety attach but not the middle) 9.40oz/266.4g & 9.45oz/267.7g two weighed
• Uncoated w/titanium handle (hollow ball but not fluted) 8.67oz/245.7g (8.65oz/245.3g w/short extractor) I moved the one long extractor I have to my rifle with the intent of fluting and that would allow it to be fluted longer which should make it lighter especially if I do the cuts in the extractor itself like the mountain ascent.
• Extractors are short 0.39/11.1g & long 0.41/11.6g

for reference/:

• Kimber 8400 Short magnum face 12.99oz/368.3g
• Kimber 8400 Long Std 30-06 face (needs to be opened up to magnum) 14.03oz/397.7g
• Defiance Long CRF/3 pos safety Magnum face 13.91oz/394.2g
• Rem 700 Short std 308 face 12.19oz/345.6g
• MRC Long magnum face 14.59oz/413.5g
• Aero Solace short std face 404.4oz/14.27g

 

[mtwarden]

^ thanks- 9.3 to 9.4 oz, that's very close to what I came up with (only in reverse )

 

[jpndave]

So my Defiance CRF/3-position safety action showed up. Was supposed to be for an R&D project then sold but they stopped production on this model (at least for now) and jacked up all the prices a huge amount so I think it is going to be staying as a 7mm PRC. Still debating between the 7mm PRC and 300 PRC for a "heavier" rifle than the 6.5 Creed 84m. I have components for both...


What are everyone's thoughts on making these cuts to the Kimber 84m rather than the windows shown before?


And...the firing pin is recessed up in rather than protruding when cocked as in our rifles. I don't think function would be affected at all by shortening that pin/cocking piece and lock times would be reduced as well. You can see a different perspective on the relief cuts in this view. The relief rather than window would eliminate any issues with extra crud getting in the action and may take even more weight off.


vs this:

 

[BBob]

What are everyone's thoughts on making these cuts to the Kimber 84m rather than the windows shown before?

There’s a requirement that the manufacturer has to be clearly marked so if your proposed cuts remove it it’ll have to be remarked so account for that cost in the work. That’s likely why you see cuts avoiding the manufacturers name.

 

[jpndave]

There’s a requirement that the manufacturer has to be clearly marked so if your proposed cuts remove it it’ll have to be remarked so account for that cost in the work. That’s likely why you see cuts avoiding the manufacturers name.

That official information is out on the barrel on the Kimbers. The marking there is cosmetic but could certainly be re marked on the machined surface just like if you re-barrel and change from say 308 to 243. The new information is put on the barrel. Serials are more touchy. Remarking a serial can get dicey. Changing the number is jail time. If I do mine, I will probably put the Kimber and Troy, AL (luckily mine is made there) along with the model there so when I re-barrel it doesn't need to be done again out on the barrel, only the chambering. One of the best engravers in the country is a good friend of mine and I'll have him upgrade all that to be nicer.

Manufacturer, City & State, Chambering, Model. Everything except the serial number is right here.

 

[Trackselk]

Anyone want to buy an almost new hunter stock (light brown)? Might be a cheap way to drop a couple of pounds (?) Off of a wooden stock model. Please send me a PM with an offer if so as to not clog up this thread. I just figured this was the place to mention it first. Best offer takes it.

 

[Trackselk]

^ thanks- 9.3 to 9.4 oz, that's very close to what I came up with (only in reverse )

Yeah, looks like I lost almost exactly 1 ounce with the fluting plus 24hrcampfire handle. Pricey ounce! I already half regret not fluting the barrel, but cutting 4 inches off was more weight anyhow. It looked like fluting an 18" barrel was only going to be about 2 ounces, and Karl convinced me to keep the rigidity for the suppressor on a thin barrel. Not that there aren't examples of Cans on full length Ascents and such, but he thinks that it's a gamble, and definitely have more POI shift, which might suck if I was bushwacking with the Can off and had to shoot fast. FWIW

 

[BBob]

That official information is out on the barrel on the Kimbers. The marking there is cosmetic but could certainly be re marked on the machined surface just like if you re-barrel and change from say 308 to 243. The new information is put on the barrel. Serials are more touchy. Remarking a serial can get dicey. Changing the number is jail time. If I do mine, I will probably put the Kimber and Troy, AL (luckily mine is made there) along with the model there so when I re-barrel it doesn't need to be done again out on the barrel, only the chambering. One of the best engravers in the country is a good friend of mine and I'll have him upgrade all that to be nicer.

Manufacturer, City & State, Chambering, Model. Everything except the serial number is right here.

Nope, along with serial number receivers must be marked with the manufacturers name along with where they maintain their place of business. I'll bet if you ask Kampfeld or any other reputable gunsmith they'll tell you the same.

The ATF states:

"The frame or receiver must also be marked with either: their name (or recognized abbreviation), and city and State (or recognized abbreviation) where they maintain their place of business; or their name (or recognized abbreviation) and the serial number"

 

[jpndave]

Nope, receivers must be marked with the manufacturers name along with where they maintain their place of business.

The ATF states:

"The frame or receiver must also be marked with either: their name (or recognized abbreviation), and city and State (or recognized abbreviation) where they maintain their place of business; or their name (or recognized abbreviation) and the serial number"

So all of our Kimbers are illegal then as they have the information out on the barrel? Official model, Name, City and State are ONLY on the barrel. Receiver has serial number and the Kimber 84M artwork. There were some changes along with the August 24, 2022 publication. Designs prior to that may use the original marking. Read ATF eRegulations 27 CFR Part 478 for the clarification. 27 CFR Part 478 Subpart F § 478.92(a)(4)(v) specifically

I agree with you in that the Receiver is a better place to put that information. However, that is not how these rifles are marked and the don't have to be changed to the receiver, not even current production.

 

[mtwarden]

So my Defiance CRF/3-position safety action showed up. Was supposed to be for an R&D project then sold but they stopped production on this model (at least for now) and jacked up all the prices a huge amount so I think it is going to be staying as a 7mm PRC. Still debating between the 7mm PRC and 300 PRC for a "heavier" rifle than the 6.5 Creed 84m. I have components for both...
View attachment 512187

What are everyone's thoughts on making these cuts to the Kimber 84m rather than the windows shown before?
View attachment 512186

And...the firing pin is recessed up in rather than protruding when cocked as in our rifles. I don't think function would be affected at all by shortening that pin/cocking piece and lock times would be reduced as well. You can see a different perspective on the relief cuts in this view. The relief rather than window would eliminate any issues with extra crud getting in the action and may take even more weight off.
View attachment 512201View attachment 512209

vs this:
View attachment 512216

I think the first cut is doable on the Kimber, possibly the second????

I had a M70 "slabbed" like that first cut w/o any issues.

On my Hunter even if you came down to just the top of the Kimber logo and no further, you'd still shave a little weight.

 

[ChrisAU]

One more try….struck out this morning.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

One more try….struck out this morning.

View attachment 512352

Sorry if I missed it. Is that 358 a re barrel or re bore?

 

[ChrisAU]

Sorry if I missed it. Is that 358 a re barrel or re bore?

Rebore

 

[jpndave]

I think the first cut is doable on the Kimber, possibly the second????

I had a M70 "slabbed" like that first cut w/o any issues.

On my Hunter even if you came down to just the top of the Kimber logo and no further, you'd still shave a little weight.

I think I am going to try those cuts as soon and I can decide how to fixture and tool it up in my mill. I'll probably take the full face cut like the Defiance and put ALL the information there (Serial stays as is then Kimber 84M Troy, AL) so if it is re-barreled it wouldn't need to be put on the barrel again, only the chambering. I might try and ball mill it with the CNC function while it is fixtured up. I haven't done that before but the machine should do it (3-axis CNC Bridgeport knee mill EZTrack) I may try shortening the firing pin/cocking piece too.

Just back from Kampfeld today. With and without the factory bolt handle. What was the original weight anyhow? If anyone wants this factory bolt handle cerakoted in sniper green just let me know and I'll mail it off.
-and the whole barreled action with the 5/8 flare for suppressor. Now off to MPI for new stock.

I might just send the bolt off. Those that are coming back look nice. Was the wrought iron pattern an option? How did Kampfeld address the ejector slot? Will you post a photo up of the other side of the bolt?

 

[Trackselk]

I might just send the bolt off. Those that are coming back look nice. Was the wrought iron pattern an option? How did Kampfeld address the ejector slot? Will you post a photo up of the other side of the bolt?
[/QUOTE]

Not sure on the iron option. I noticed a strait cut that was interesting on the other side but haven't compared it side by side to my ascent bolt yet. I'll get a pic(s) posted of them side by side to see if it is identical to kimbers work.
I've also gotta say, he coated the action inside and out way better than I've seen done on my other guns. This is one corrosion resistant rifle! I've only cycled it about 50 times yet, but running pretty smooth, just needs another cleaning and cycling circuit to be ready for field use. He even coated the stock screws, brake, 5/8" flare, and both thread protectors. Really impressed!
I'm recovering from covid, so might be a day or 2...

 

[Levans2]

Does anyone have actual contact info for the guy on 24hourcampfire that sells the Ti bolt handles? Or is the only way to contact him by creating an account over there?

 

[jpndave]

Does anyone have actual contact info for the guy on 24hourcampfire that sells the Ti bolt handles? Or is the only way to contact him by creating an account over there?

PM me your email and I'll send it to him over there. I might have an email attached to the payment I sent him. I'll have to check. I wouldn't mind grabbing another couple handles anyway.

 

[Trackselk]

Well, after closer examination there's a couple things that aren't extra pretty, but make no difference functionality wise. Not sure if his CNC? (I assume) went wild or it's just how he was able to make it work with his equipment, but notice in the pics that there's one strait cut, and one little "bonus area" carved away. I'm happy to have the extra material gone, and you can't see these cuts unless you remove the bolt from the gun.
-Ascent has much more aggressive cuts, and weighs the same as the hunter bolt with it's ti/carbon handle. Too bad we can't buy the ascent bolts! I would send a pic to Karl to see if he can copy the ascent fluting. I'd be happy to send him my ascent bolt if that helps, just let me know.
-it's tough to tell in the pic, but the ascent cuts are a lot deeper.