Thanks, are you going with the same basic paint job? Was it reasonably nonslip?Yes but not heavily, just a good roughing up. Working on the one for the 257 Bob right now. Hope to paint it this weekend.
Thanks, are you going with the same basic paint job? Was it reasonably nonslip?Yes but not heavily, just a good roughing up. Working on the one for the 257 Bob right now. Hope to paint it this weekend.
Thanks, are you going with the same basic paint job? Was it reasonably nonslip?
Good deal, thanks again!Going for a brown base with a different stone speckle on this one, but same idea. Yes its pretty grippy from the stone speckle.
Curious what cartridge your hunter is for a recoil perspective on the flip flop pad? I'm going to end up right about 5.5pounds complete with the suppressor in 6.5CM. I know I wouldn't want a flip flop on my non suppressed 5.5 lb Ascent 308, as it's not a lot of fun to shoot.You can also try the flipflop recoil pad. Saves about 2 ounces. The hunter stock pad weighed 2.8 ounces (with screws) and my flipflop recoil pad weighs .53oz and you don't need screws for the install. The flipflop recoil pad doesn't feel very good from the bench but I haven't noticed while hunting. My hunter is stock with a vx-freedom 4-12 and weighs 5#13oz with only the recoil pad and goo from the stock removed.
Those look those old kifaru rambling rifles. I don’t remember when they actually made them but Patrick smith also had a rifle sort of like that that he’d taken a drill to.Wow, what stocks are those? I don't know if the kimber stock would handle treatment like that? Maybe with a couple carbon arrow reinforcements?
I like it if it drops ounces!
Thanks. Anyone have any ideas on how to make a flip flop work easily on our hollow stocks?Those look those old kifaru rambling rifles. I don’t remember when they actually made them but Patrick smith also had a rifle sort of like that that he’d taken a drill to.
Could you cut a second layer of flip flop material to act as a plug that is attached to the part that is actually going to be the recoil pad?Thanks. Anyone have any ideas on how to make a flip flop work easily on our hollow stocks?
The .91" micro cells finish at about 2oz, and the .59" finish about 1.7oz. Both have the plastic backing plate making for an easy install. The plate weighs about an ounce if it's basically the same as the one I cut off a worn out limbsaver. Sounds like the .59 microcell is a good easy solution and drops 1oz.
Maybe. However, i think that would put me within about 1/2 an ounce of the excellent no glue .59 microcell.Could you cut a second layer of flip flop material to act as a plug that is attached to the part that is actually going to be the recoil pad?
You could just epoxy it on around the edges I suppose but there would be no structure in the middle. Might not really matter though.Maybe. However, i think that would put me within about 1/2 an ounce of the excellent no glue .59 microcell.
For sure! I don't love the look, but I've never found the elk to care about ugly rifles, or missing swivel studs...glad I could provide some inspiration from the Kifaru Rambling rifles. Looks sweet!
Thanks to the OP and letrbuck!Now that's a light stock!!
Holy shit, did you JUST decide to do that after that other guy posted pics of the kifaru rifle earlier today? That’s awesome, just send it right?Now that's what I call free floated! This pic shows the ascent barreled action on the new and improved hunter stock. Still has the steel bolt handle as my ti one is at MPI. I put the mag box on the scale in place of the hunter mag (also at mpi). This stock had zero goo behind the cap, and only about 8.2 oz in the butt.
Pretty happy, it's already under 5lbs, and the new barrel will be 4" shorter, and might be more aggressively fluted. I think I'll be at 5lb 5oz with sling and suppressor (tbac ultra7 gen 2) when done.
Lastly, I learned on my contender (4.5lb) that swivel studs and swivels are a waste of weight, and noisy. I just drilled 2 holes to attach the webbing sling to stock with paracord. (Sling is less than 1oz).
Thanks again to everyone for all of the great ideas!
- the "forend" is still very rigid, and I could have cut more, but i wanted it to last a lifetime. I cut 5" off the end, just what felt comfortable while shouldering the rifle.
-edit, need to add 1.5oz for recoil pad that's on order, and .8oz for sling, and subtract 3 oz for barrel cut, and .9oz for ti bolt handle. Then there's only the mag weight difference, and 9oz suppressor.