Show your Tikka ten round groups

[Nevwild]

10 round group
6.5 Creed
17.5 inch barrel
AB Raptor 8
Manners EH1
147 Eldm factory
2 MOA target
Off of sandbags

 

[HighUintas]

Here's a couple. Does the right group look zeroed? Or should I adjust left 0.1?

 

[Formidilosus]

Here's a couple. Does the right group look zeroed? Or should I adjust left 0.1?

View attachment 771400

You might be in between clicks, however given both the 20 round sandbag group, and the 8 shot pack group are slightly right, a left .1 mil would be ok. Probably just going to end up slightly left, and that is ok too.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Here's a couple. Does the right group look zeroed? Or should I adjust left 0.1?

View attachment 771400

Good shooting!

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

If I’m between clicks but groups are trending left/right/up/down I adjust out trending direction in most cases as Form mentioned.

 

[HighUintas]

If I’m between clicks but groups are trending left/right/up/down I adjust out trending direction in most cases as Form mentioned.

You might be in between clicks, however given both the 20 round sandbag group, and the 8 shot pack group are slightly right, a left .1 mil would be ok. Probably just going to end up slightly left, and that is ok too.

Thanks to both.

I've had a really hard time being consistent after switching my non trigger hand to "control" the butt stock by ok putting the toe in the web between thumb and pointer and pinching it while squeezing a bag or balling up my other few fingers underneath on my bino harness. Sometimes it spot on and feels relaxed, other times I feel like I'm fighting something and getting stringing like in the bottom target. For some reason this is a much harder method for me to get good at in comparison to gripping the foreend or even letting the toe ride a bag without being pinched.

For example , that top left target was the first 8 and then adjusted it only 0.1. those are 1" squares, so in that one I was trending left!

I'll move it back a click to the left, as that's what was working for me over the weekend in the mountains hitting consistently at 800 and also what was "zeroed" off my pack at 100 before moving further out.

 

[Castle Rock]

If you are between clicks you should favor zeroing slightly left because right hand twist barrels drift bullets to the right at distance

 

[HighUintas]

If you are between clicks you should favor zeroing slightly left because right hand twist barrels drift bullets to the right at distance

Yep, that's what I've done in the past but wasn't sure on this one because my first group was much farther left.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

If you are between clicks you should favor zeroing slightly left because right hand twist barrels drift bullets to the right at distance

I would normally advise against factoring in spin drift in a 100 yard zero. A shooters tendency can become more exaggerated more often at most hunting shot ranges than spin drift will ever show.

He could leave it alone and go kill with it, or adjust it 0.1 MIL left and go kill with it. Both will work fine. Personally I’d click it 0.1 MIL left and go verify at range.

 

[HighUintas]

I would normally advise against factoring in spin drift in a 100 yard zero. A shooters tendency can become more exaggerated more often at most hunting shot ranges than spin drift will ever show.

He could leave it alone and go kill with it, or adjust it 0.1 MIL left and go kill with it. Both will work fine. Personally I’d click it 0.1 MIL left and go verify at range.

I'll be doing one more zero check and hopefully some field position practice before heading out on my hunt Friday.

One question I have on the pinching. The buttstock method that I mentioned above, is is it generally advisable to have a pretty firm grip on the buttstock with your non-shooting hand, or do you want it very light and only supporting the buttstock? I seem to be much more consistent when I'm very relaxed and only supporting it, rather than firmly pinching it and pushing it into my shoulder. The latter seems to be much less "neutral" for me than the former.

 

[West2East]

6.5 cm with 147ELDM Zero check before hunting season.
After seeing the last 10 rd groups posted, I have a long way to go.
This is off a Harris bipod with a "meat on the bone" bag of game bags for a rear rest.
All of my groups are in the 1.2 -1.5MOA range.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[walk2112]

6.5 Creed barrel finally broke in and sped up about 60fps. Also had a .2 LT and .2 UP poi shift over the last 40-50 rounds of seeing the average velocity of a 10-shot group come up a bit each time. After two 10 shotters in a row (with a little time to cool in between) telling me the POI is gonna be high left now, adjust to zero w/ an offset that should allow for nice easy quick drops out to 600 (even 700, but I’m not taking that poke at a critter).

147 ELD-M factory ammo. 2” dot


Purely psychological, but nice feeling when the last group of the day is the tightest (most are ~1.2MOA for 10 shots) and zeroed well.
Next trip to range to verify zero at distance.

Group during the slow but sure velocity climb until the barrel seemed to stabilize at new POI and more regular aver. fps: 1.5” dot

 

[NSI]

AAC continues to produce cost effective ammo, not just for .223 but also for 6.5 cm. The first Saber group is a standout (first rounds out of my new rokstok), and I wish I was confident terminally hunting with it. It chrono'd both more consistent and 80fps faster than my 143 eldX. Needless to say, my 16" gun could use it. Yes, the second group opened substantially. Mirage off the Scythe may be to blame. Target was shifting .5mil though I did my best to clear the air before firing. The BTHP loading was shot with a hot rifle after 40 rounds, prone in a Rokstok with a Gunwerks bipod (hoppy and slippy, not impressed).

-J

 

[CC55]

AAC 77 TMK out of Tikka
-8 shot group, moved up 0.4 mil, left 0.2
-10 shot group
-went 4/4 on 10” plate at 420

Really surprised me how well it shot….but it’s slow. 2650fps out of a 19” barrel.

 

[wind gypsy]

My 223 wylde chambered Lite contour ACE is liking these $0.75 ADI 69 smk rounds better than my factory tube did. I think this is 15 rounds. Stickers are 1" circles.


It does better with the 75 ELDm too. This was my first go at throwing charges rather than weighing. 20 rds over leverevolution.

On the flip side, the factory tube shot 73 ELD factory and ADI 55 sbk notably better than this ACE barrel does. I’ll take the trade off though! Primary reason for swapping was hoping for something that hammered with the 75s.

 

[ShootOkHuntWorse]

My 223 wylde chambered Lite contour ACE is liking these $0.75 ADI 69 smk rounds better than my factory tube did. I think this is 15 rounds. Stickers are 1" circles.
View attachment 776840

It does better with the 75 ELDm too. This was my first go at throwing charges rather than weighing. 20 rds over leverevolution.
View attachment 776843
On the flip side, the factory tube shot 73 ELD factory and ADI 55 sbk notably better than this ACE barrel does. I’ll take the trade off though! Primary reason for swapping was hoping for something that hammered with the 75s.

Pretending weighing charges isn’t a thing is my favorite activity. I hate wasting that much time just to miss left edge.

 

[NSI]

Some great and less than great groups from the 223.

-J

 

[NSI]

Some groups from the shorty Rokstok 6.5. As in the Phoenix gun above, no appreciable group shift moving from bag to bipod.

The real deal Sierra stuff shoots slightly better, as it should for 1.5x the price.

-J

 

[TX_Diver]

Comparing factory (Left) to handloads (right) to figure out the zero offset.

Not making any changes til I do this 2 more times.

 

[Shraggs]

If that trend holds, .1 up! Pretty convenient and assuming you had some wind