How's OP going to do that without threads? He's got to pay for machining either way out at the current muzzle or at whatever length he chooses. So "don't waste money" doesn't really apply.
I’m not sure if you’re asking a legitimate question or what here but I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt. Most smiths charge different rates for a barrel thread vs a cut/recrown/and thread in my experience, i.e. cut,crown,thread - 175$ vs threading - 75$. Given that information and my original post, one can infer that yes I mean just thread it and go shoot.
Fair enough. I've been looking at LRI who combines muzzle threading and re-crowning as one service. So if your local gunsmith charges less for threading without cutting & crowning then you could save money by keeping the original barrel length.
If your can has the standard 1.375" threads at the rear so you can swap adapters, then a good option might be this titanium direct thread adapter that fits 5/8 with the 25° Sig taper. The Sig taper only requires a barrel diameter of .050" over the major thread diameter instead of .100" like a square shoulder. So instead of needing .725" you can get away with .675" and still have the better thickness between the bore diameter and threads (5/8 vs 1/2 or 9/16) and you also gain all of the benefits of a taper mount (more consistent alignment and less tendency to loosen up) without having to add muzzle devices and mount systems.
Some people get it some people don’t.
How does the lack of a shoulder lead to baffle strike? Second question - does the minimum recommended shoulder (seems to be .050”) change at all over different barrels or cans?
I'm only aware because it happened to me - so I'm not an expert. From memory only (!), the lack of a shoulder may not allow the can to get a seated fit against the barrel, which in some cases (including mine) can lead to a misalignment and a baffle strike. If you want more info, I can dig through the emails among Cooper, TBAC and me.
I just had my two new Tikkas delivered to a local gunsmith that came recommended. I’ll check with him and see how knowledgeable he is. Otherwise it’s getting sent west for the work. I’m new to the suppressor world.
I can't speak for all can makers, but mine gave me dimensions and a diagram that I would think are easy (for a competent gunsmith) to follow. I expect others provide the same information, at least upon request. The gunsmith (at the company that made the rifle) just chose not to follow the dimensions - without telling me that decision had been made.
Personally, on big magnums, I go 22" when i want to keep as much velocity as i can. This also depends on what suppressors you run. I have them anywhere from 6" to 11". I've had good luck with my 300prc here at 22". It really depends on how far you want to shoot and what bullet youre shooting. 22 is pretty short for a 300wm. Seems the wsm is better suited for a shorter barrel from the research I've done.
Just be sure your can will support whatever length you decide to cut it to.
I would not be shooting at game past 400 yds and elk/deer, hopefully moose someday but I imagine that would be a closer shot. I feel like with the caliber I should retain the energy needed for elk sized game. By modern standards I don't view 400 yards as "long range." Thoughts?
