Savage lightweight storm 7mm-08 review

dct73

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I guess I've come full circle and now I'm back to Savage rifles. I've had my eye on their lightweight storm since it was just the stainless lightweight hunter, but I passed on it several years ago (and on the Kimber Hunter) and bought a Tikka instead. My interest in the Tikka ran it's course (too long for me, I decided, and I didn't like the closed top action), so I wandered around with a few others until I finally scratched the Savage lightweight itch due to a good sale on 7mm-08's at CDNN ($549 w/ free shipping).

Got it in yesterday and two things immediately jumped out at me. The barrel looks very thin in the factory plastic stock because Savage made no effort to produce a stock with a narrower barrel channel for the lightweight rifle. But I can live with it. The stock is very comfortable otherwise and I like it better than the old Savage tupperware and Accustock shapes. The new lightweight storm stock came with spacers to adjust length of pull, but not comb height (which I didn't need anyway because it's perfect for me with the medium Talley rings). I might use a spacer but probably not. Out of the box, the thing fit me like a glove.

I read some complaints about the spiral fluted bolt being rough, and although it is a little rougher than the standard jeweled bolt body (which is VERY smooth on my 116 30-06), it's no rougher than any Rem 700 or Ruger American or other common rifle these days. It's already starting to smooth out after just an hour of handling the rifle and working the bolt. It's a non-issue to me. If someone didn't like it, they could always swap it out for a jeweled bolt body in a few minutes. It might add an ounce? Because Savage uses the floating bolt head, your headspace should not change, but I'd still confirm that before firing.

I did end up going with Talley standard Savage 110 rings on it, in which I mounted my Leupold VX-1 2-7x33 LR Duplex scope. At 9.9 oz. it's a perfect scope for this little rifle. I had bought some steel Leupold bases and rings, but decided to stay with the lightweight route and use the Talleys. The Leupold setup would have added 5 oz. Not that much, but enough to notice.

All-in, the rifle, rings and scope weigh 6 lbs. 6 oz. At 40" long and with a light barrel, it balances and points as good as any rifle I've ever had. I have to say, the stock - although ugly - fits me better than the Bansner stock on my Howa Alpine.

This weekend I'll break in the bore and start testing loads. I have 139 Interlock BTSP, 140 Accubond and 154 Interbond loads worked up for testing, along with my 131 Hammers. I'll post up the results when I get them.
Hey Newtosavage. I know this thread is getting a bit old, but I just bought a Storm lightweight and have a 33mm objective scope for it. I was just wondering what height Talley rings you went with? I assume you got the Talley lightweights.
 

Zappaman

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Over 20 years I went from a few 700s, 70s, and Rugers to Savage. I have bought well over a dozen (some for me, some for friends who wanted a "set-up" rifle). I have a 300 yard range I use to tweak my guns (a great buddy's range just down the road). With these Axis, and 110 models (all stainless) bought the last decade, not ONE has shot over 1" (and with hand loads they often get down to 1/2" off the lead sled).

I built up an Axis II stainless with a 260ai re-barrel three years back (Apache barrel) and put a nice maple stock custom from Boyds (cost as much as the gun). With the scope it's 7 1/2 lbs loaded. I took a buck in the neck at 365 yards (ranged) last month with this 25" barreled rifle off sticks, sitting in a blind over a bean field. That load was shooting 1 1/2" groups at 300 the week before the hunt (in a little wind- it's Kansas after-all).

I don't get the "ugly" gun stigma... I think they look great. And my other "stock" Savages with the cheap plastic stocks are EASY to take out on a rainy day, or when I'm using the rifle to push through the brush. There is some psychology with owning NICE guns... where it's hard to take them out and actually USE THEM (we ALL know about the "safe queen" quandary).

Put all the BS aside, realize an accurate gun IS and accurate gun... and Savage gets my vote for your BASIC calibers (all made in the US to boot). AND I DON'T NEED A GUNSMITH to work on my gun!!!

Now that Savage bought themselves away from Vista, I think we'll be seeing them continue to kick butt. Ruger is another great US made option I've pondered (*and I like the Vanguards for my few larger caliber guns too- Howa Japanese actions, but assembled and barreled in Wyoming- nice bottom metal- tack drivers like the Savage).

But pound-for pound I'll take Savage (for the same money) on any caliber they make- hands down. Yes they sometimes need a little tweaking (like many guns), but they are delivering the best value out there in the "budget" market and I'm glad for new, young hunters who can AFFORD a GOOD gun starting out. Put better glass on them and they shoot JUST as good as all the "expensive" guns out there.
 
OP
Newtosavage
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Hey Newtosavage. I know this thread is getting a bit old, but I just bought a Storm lightweight and have a 33mm objective scope for it. I was just wondering what height Talley rings you went with? I assume you got the Talley lightweights.
Yea, I did. I have the mediums but the lows would work fine too. Just depends on how "upright" you want your head when you create your cheek weld. When in doubt, go with the mediums.
 
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Newtosavage
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Over 20 years I went from a few 700s, 70s, and Rugers to Savage. I have bought well over a dozen (some for me, some for friends who wanted a "set-up" rifle). I have a 300 yard range I use to tweak my guns (a great buddy's range just down the road). With these Axis, and 110 models (all stainless) bought the last decade, not ONE has shot over 1" (and with hand loads they often get down to 1/2" off the lead sled).

I built up an Axis II stainless with a 260ai re-barrel three years back (Apache barrel) and put a nice maple stock custom from Boyds (cost as much as the gun). With the scope it's 7 1/2 lbs loaded. I took a buck in the neck at 365 yards (ranged) last month with this 25" barreled rifle off sticks, sitting in a blind over a bean field. That load was shooting 1 1/2" groups at 300 the week before the hunt (in a little wind- it's Kansas after-all).

I don't get the "ugly" gun stigma... I think they look great. And my other "stock" Savages with the cheap plastic stocks are EASY to take out on a rainy day, or when I'm using the rifle to push through the brush. There is some psychology with owning NICE guns... where it's hard to take them out and actually USE THEM (we ALL know about the "safe queen" quandary).

Put all the BS aside, realize an accurate gun IS and accurate gun... and Savage gets my vote for your BASIC calibers (all made in the US to boot). AND I DON'T NEED A GUNSMITH to work on my gun!!!

Now that Savage bought themselves away from Vista, I think we'll be seeing them continue to kick butt. Ruger is another great US made option I've pondered (*and I like the Vanguards for my few larger caliber guns too- Howa Japanese actions, but assembled and barreled in Wyoming- nice bottom metal- tack drivers like the Savage).

But pound-for pound I'll take Savage (for the same money) on any caliber they make- hands down. Yes they sometimes need a little tweaking (like many guns), but they are delivering the best value out there in the "budget" market and I'm glad for new, young hunters who can AFFORD a GOOD gun starting out. Put better glass on them and they shoot JUST as good as all the "expensive" guns out there.
Preach brother! I came to the same conclusion after spending 2-3 years buying and selling a bunch of other rifles. Never could reliably get the accuracy that I got from my "Bass Pro" Savage and I enjoy working on my own rifles. So back to Savage I went. I had no idea how accurate those LW Storms would be when I bought them. Never thought a 20" pencil barrel could shoot so well. But they do.

A few days ago I found an Axis II stainless package locally and bought it, just as a test platform for my spare barrels. That way I can keep my stock hunting rifle as-is and play with loads from my other barrels. People can piss on the Axis but it's a damn good shooting platform, especially now that they significantly improved the stock. I spun on my .284 Win X-Caliber barrel and was shooting 0.5's and 0.6's within the hour. Took me less than 15 minutes to pull the factory barrel and install the .284. Plus, the Axis is even lighter than my LWS (110) action. That barrel might just stay on that Axis receiver now! ha, ha.

The Accutrigger on that Axis goes down to just 1.25# with zero creep. I'm not sure what more anyone could ask for in a $350 gun. Shooting-wise, I'd put either of my rifles up against anyone's custom sub-7 lb. rifle any day. I mean half inch groups are half inch groups. They don't care which gun they come out of. LOL
 

j33

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Jun 11, 2020
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Calgary, AB
I'm with NewtoSavage here.....I bought one in 6.5 for my 13 yr old based on the length of pull adjustment options and overall compact size. Figured it would be a semi-forgettable kid's gun. I've been thoroughly impressed with it. The barrel does seem short at first and the forearm gap is odd looking, but this rifle just plain shoots with minimal recoil. It also handles really well. It's got a well-balanced, carbine feel to it. I pulled the action and adjusted the trigger down, but otherwise it's bone stock out of the box. I'd shoot this thing myself without hesitation. My son loves it.

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How’s the muzzle jump on that gun or your 7mm-08? Do you have to keep your left hand on the forearm to shoot?

Had a Kimber Hunter 6.5 and that thing jumped too much in no opinion, don’t want a muzzle break.
 

Tango1

Lil-Rokslider
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My 6.5 is like any other lightweight rifle I own (Fieldcrafts, Kimber etc), it wants to buck but I've settled into a shooting routine holding it down over the top of the scope or bracing the stock/action in shooting sticks and that makes a huge difference. I hate brakes on hunting rifles
 

j33

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My 6.5 is like any other lightweight rifle I own (Fieldcrafts, Kimber etc), it wants to buck but I've settled into a shooting routine holding it down over the top of the scope or bracing the stock/action in shooting sticks and that makes a huge difference. I hate brakes on hunting rifles

Not to get off topic but what bullets does your gun like? I just picked up a 6.5 so gonna scavenge whatever I can find to see what it likes.
 

Zappaman

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Not to get off topic but what bullets does your gun like? I just picked up a 6.5 so gonna scavenge whatever I can find to see what it likes.
For deer and up in my 260ai, the 140g Gold Dot (or Fusion if ammo) has become my fave over the years. Tried SST... accurate and kills like hell, but baseball hole on off side shoulder- messy gutting/butchering job and lost meat. Tried the Game Kings- also accurate, but still too frangible (messy) for me and more inconsistent between kills (in my case).

For yotes, the 100g A-max smokes em' good out of my CR (not a hide keeper). I sold the 243 off since the CM can go down to a 90g TNT if you really want to rip them up... OR download it and save the hide. I've also shot some A-max 123g bullets that impressed me for LONG range shots on yotes too.

Great caliber, lots of bullet choices and uses. Try them all!
 
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Tango1

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Not to get off topic but what bullets does your gun like? I just picked up a 6.5 so gonna scavenge whatever I can find to see what it likes.
j33,
Full disclosure, I work for Magtech-S&B ammunition, so the Sellier & Bellot is what I use. We offer an S&B 140gr FMJ load that's great for training and general range work. It's (pre-Covid era) low cost and readily available. I use the 140gr Softpoints in Africa on plains game up to kudu and in the USA on big deer. The 131gr Softpoint is perfect for antelope or smaller Florida deer. All, including the FMJ, are sub-MOA capable. Sadly, current market conditions force you take what you can find now. Demand for 6.5 CM seems to be limitless and I don't see it changing this year.
 
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I know I'm resurrecting this thread (again), but I was wondering if the OP still owns this rifle, and if the OD of the end of the barrel is known. I am interested in this exact model, but I would like to thread the barrel for a suppressor.
 
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@Newtosavage is it safe to assume you didn’t like the fit and feel of the Ultralight compared to your LWS?

Right now that rifle in 7PRC or 280AI is at the top of my next rifle list
 

RS3579

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I know I'm resurrecting this thread (again), but I was wondering if the OP still owns this rifle, and if the OD of the end of the barrel is known. I am interested in this exact model, but I would like to thread the barrel for a suppressor.
I’ve followed this thread from the beginning. And ended up buying a LW Storm 7mm-08 because of this thread. I’m pretty sure the OP sold his barrel. I just went and measured mine. It’s a 9/16 width at the end of the barrel. I measured with a tape measure, I don’t have a caliper.
 

TheHammer

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I know I'm resurrecting this thread (again), but I was wondering if the OP still owns this rifle, and if the OD of the end of the barrel is known. I am interested in this exact model, but I would like to thread the barrel for a suppressor.
I have one in 308 and it was trimmed 1” and cut 1/2”-32 threads. Even on bad days it’s usually moa @200. (I have to travel a good bit to shoot farther)
 

dct73

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Yep. I just measured mine also. If you get right out to the end of the taper I was looking at 0.560". It may not make any difference what caliber, but mine is a 7mm-08.
 
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How is the recoil on the 7mm08? I found the same rifle local and considering it for a youth hunter's first rifle? The caliber in general seems appropriate for a youth, but I have always felt more recoil with a synthetic stock vs wood.
 
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How is the recoil on the 7mm08? I found the same rifle local and considering it for a youth hunter's first rifle? The caliber in general seems appropriate for a youth, but I have always felt more recoil with a synthetic stock vs wood.
Can always put a Limbsaver on it as well as use low-recoil loads (commercial and hand-loads).
 
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