2-Stix
WKR
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2020
- Messages
- 535
The rail was square. I checked it to a piece of glass and metal straight edges. It's fine if not torqued. When torqued to spec the rail sucks down to the out of plumb receiver. I think the holes are ok. I think it was over polished or ground on and it has less material on the left lug, so the scope points left and the rifle right...causing me to run out of windage. The local gunsmith took some marking coper sheet and stuffed it underneath to fill the gap to get me through my hunt this year. I got back 1 full turn of the dial of windage. I have about 10 moa before it bottoms out now. Should be closer to center at 25 moa of clicks. Not happy for my first Savage. If I send it back I gotta pay to ship, and if they put a new barrel on it, the numbers change and I have to do the DROS in CA. Might cost me $100 to get their mistake fixed.Wow, that's bizarre. And you've checked that rail? Not making contact with the recoil lug or barrel nut? If that's the case, then the screw holes must be offline, in which case definitely send it back to Savage. They will make it right. I've only had to use their CS 2x and they were great both times.
I wonder if that action got torqued in the milling process for the LW action?The rail was square. I checked it to a piece of glass and metal straight edges. It's fine if not torqued. When torqued to spec the rail sucks down to the out of plumb receiver. I think the holes are ok. I think it was over polished or ground on and it has less material on the left lug, so the scope points left and the rifle right...causing me to run out of windage. The local gunsmith took some marking coper sheet and stuffed it underneath to fill the gap to get me through my hunt this year. I got back 1 full turn of the dial of windage. I have about 10 moa before it bottoms out now. Should be closer to center at 25 moa of clicks. Not happy for my first Savage. If I send it back I gotta pay to ship, and if they put a new barrel on it, the numbers change and I have to do the DROS in CA. Might cost me $100 to get their mistake fixed.
Very frustrating until I got it figured out. But I got my buck this year with it. I just need to get it fixed and move on with it. Makes me want to sell it or look elsewhere (Weatherby/Tikka)...but the ss and weight has me really sold on the use side of it. Not sure what maker I will buy for a 300 win in a few years.I wonder if that action got torqued in the milling process for the LW action?
Well, I'm sorry you had that experience. First I've ever heard of something like that. I use Talley LW one piece base/rings and have never had an issue. Every Savage I've owned has been an easy sub-moa rifle with very little work.
After going all the way around the block on lightweight rifles, I came to appreciate the simplicity and utilitarian design of the Savage LW series. I can still swap barrels easy enough in my garage, and I can get barrels just about anywhere. Used Savage barrels are always accurate and usually very cheap. I've bought several on Ebay that were damn good shooters for under $100.Very frustrating until I got it figured out. But I got my buck this year with it. I just need to get it fixed and move on with it. Makes me want to sell it or look elsewhere (Weatherby/Tikka)...but the ss and weight has me really sold on the use side of it. Not sure what maker I will buy for a 300 win in a few years.
Thanks for the encouragement to stick with it. I probably will for now.After going all the way around the block on lightweight rifles, I came to appreciate the simplicity and utilitarian design of the Savage LW series. I can still swap barrels easy enough in my garage, and I can get barrels just about anywhere. Used Savage barrels are always accurate and usually very cheap. I've bought several on Ebay that were damn good shooters for under $100.
I'll eventually get a .280ai barrel for my long action LW Storm, and probably a .308 barrel for my short action, for something to do when I get bored.
I never would have thought the 20" pencil-barrel on my 7mm-08 LW Storm could have kept up with the normal sporter-weight Savage barrels I've owned, but it certainly does. Kind of amazing to me really.
Would you elaborate further on the benefits of the new stock? I've had my model 16 LWH almost since they hit the market. I've been searching pretty much the same amount of time for a replacement to the factory stock.They are. And you should upgrade that old stock to the newer version. It would be plug and play, and you'll love it. I am a big fan of these new stocks. The old ones, not so much.
Sure. The shape of the new stock is just much better. The problem I have with a lot of stocks is that the "ridge" on the comb comes too close to the action, and the base of my thumb always rides against that ridge, causing my trigger hand to be rotated clockwise (RH shooter) in an unnatural position. They moved that ridge back on the new stocks so you can wrap your hand around the wrist of the stock and there is room for the base of your thumb. So that part alone was huge to me. But the comb height on the new LW Storm stocks (not adjustable) is just perfect to me, and being able to adjust the length of pull is also very welcome. I don't love the look of the texturing, but it is very effective and I've come to appreciate it in the hand, especially when I'm hunting.Would you elaborate further on the benefits of the new stock? I've had my model 16 LWH almost since they hit the market. I've been searching pretty much the same amount of time for a replacement to the factory stock.
All my rifles that use the .308-based case, wear 20" barrels. You don't loose that much velocity in those 2" and the quick handling and compactness are worth it to me.I'm a little concerned about the 20" barrel length, although I don't know if I should be. Any concerns on elk size game to 300 yards or deer size game out to 400? How much speed do you lose in two inches? I'd like to plug that into a ballistics calc and see how that changes MPBR.
I would bed the rail with epoxy. Put release agent on the action, and screws. Rough up the bottom of the rail and tape off the rail so it is easier to clean. Pull it and cut with a razor knife when it is solif but not hardened.Very frustrating until I got it figured out. But I got my buck this year with it. I just need to get it fixed and move on with it. Makes me want to sell it or look elsewhere (Weatherby/Tikka)...but the ss and weight has me really sold on the use side of it. Not sure what maker I will buy for a 300 win in a few years.
I agree.Looks like that’s scope was made for that rifle.
I suppose, but Talley doesn't make silver rings (that I know of) and I actually don't mind the contrasting rings as much as I thought I would.You really need some silver rings now.