S&B Klassik 3-12....reliable and good stuff?

[atmat]

The 2 advantages I could see are 1) allowing for a zero that might be slightly to the wrong side of actual scope center, so ensuring you get the full 4.8mils of useful adjustment. Otherwise its probably fine but close so not a lot of wiggle room. And 2) keeping the useable adjustment range from 0 through 4.8mils closer to the center of the erector mechanism so its never maxed out, as I have been told at the extreme ends of mechanical travel is where you are most likely to have a problem or inconsistency. I have not personally had issues with this that I can confirm, but it is “common knowledge” that makes intuitive sense to me, for whatever thats worth.

Gotcha. I’ve not heard that about the extreme ends of the erector. I’m planning to get it mounted on a Tikka with the new UM rings, so I’ll try that first and see if I have any issues.

 

[Macintosh]

If anyone cares or is trying to wrap their head around using a ffp scope for hunting, I posted a pile of pictures comparing the S&B P3l first focal reticle to a leupold standard duplex reticle on the ffp reticle image thread. It shows side by side comparison of the two reticles in various light conditions at both low and high power.

Post in thread 'FFP Reticle image thread'
https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/ffp-reticle-image-thread.299649/post-3135823

 

[atmat]

I’ve only had the scope for a couple days, but I will say the P3 reticle seems well designed. The thick outer posts really draw the eye in, and the inner crosshairs are not too thin at low power.

 

[BAKPAKR]

That is some fantastic info. Thank you. I’ve wanted to try a S&B for a long time. I’m not much of a dialer, so those little dots at high power would probably work well for me.

This scope and a Blaser would go together like bread and butter.

 

[Elite]

The S&B Klassiks are good scopes and probably the ideal option from your stated desires. Parallax adjustment is not a thing that should worry you on this, nor is the color of the illumination. Yes, the “BDC” turret (which is mil) has a zero stop as it’s limited to one rotation.

The Klassiks are probably the best “classic” hunting scopes made. If I didn’t need more than 3.2 mils of elevation on the turret for hunting, the Klassik with P3 reticle would be on most of my rifles.

Any chance you have done some durability testing on these?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Macintosh]

@Elite this is the closest written: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/schmidt-and-bender-klassik-8x56mm-field-eval.248421/

I’ll let form comment beyond that. Only 2 personal experiences I have:
-Slipped in 4” deep snow on wet leaves and fell with my full body weight onto the scope, so hard it knocked the wind out of me. I was worried I bent the barrel, let alone shifted zero on the scope. It was still perfectly zeroed when I checked.
-Had it in a pelican case flying between burlington VT, through chicago, through denver, to casper, wy. In chicago after boarding our plane I watched a baggage handler THROW the case from the cart onto the baggage conveyor, where it bounced out onto the runway, where he picked it up and more or less slammed it onto the conveyor. When we checked zero at destination it was perfectly zeroed still. It has also remained zero throughout the time I’ve owned it, a bit over 2 years.

 

[eamyrick]

I confirmed with Jerry at S&B these week that all of the models shipping from Europtic will have 4.8 mils. If you have an older scope you can have the turret upgrades.

 

[atmat]

@Elite this is the closest written: https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/schmidt-and-bender-klassik-8x56mm-field-eval.248421/

I’ll let form comment beyond that. Only 2 personal experiences I have:
-Slipped in 4” deep snow on wet leaves and fell with my full body weight onto the scope, so hard it knocked the wind out of me. I was worried I bent the barrel, let alone shifted zero on the scope. It was still perfectly zeroed when I checked.
-Had it in a pelican case flying between burlington VT, through chicago, through denver, to casper, wy. In chicago after boarding our plane I watched a baggage handler THROW the case from the cart onto the baggage conveyor, where it bounced out onto the runway, where he picked it up and more or less slammed it onto the conveyor. When we checked zero at destination it was perfectly zeroed still. It has also remained zero throughout the time I’ve owned it, a bit over 2 years.

I only have one season under mine, and no big falls, but it hasn’t shifted. I did do so 18” into soft grass and it was totally fine.

 

[prm]

I always assumed that anything S&B had a price tag that started with a 3. Reading someone's Wanted in Optics for Sale led me to Euro Optics and looking at a Schmidy 3-12 Klassik. Priced under $1500. Got my interest.

Keeping it semi short: I will retire soon and want a Plains Game in Africa. I love the 300 Win Mag. I want to rebarrel a current LH rifle with an Bartlein and chamber the same. Just a nice, classic "traditional" bolt gun. Fancy-ish, but not an LR precision rifle.

I've long wanted a NF 2.5-10X NXS. But I ALWAYS like more Xs. Just do. 12X does give me way more warm/fuzzies than a 10X.

The particular scope I found checks I think...ALL my boxes. I love an illuminated dot. Even if I don't use it...it's there if I do. I shoot a fair bit of LR. I like a turret that spins and is reliable. I don't envision this rifle as an LR rig, but if it's accurate enough, why not have the ability to dial a perfect shot at 342 yards on a Kudu?

Asking....is Klassik glass still on par with modern glass from Japan or Euro? Anyone know if the turret has a zero stop? And how is the reported reliabilty of a S&B in this line? I do realize many compete with top end Schmidys....but those price tags start with a 4 maybe even a 5. Not want I can afford or want.

I do have a Bushy 3-12 I've never used in the safe. Kinda was holding onto it for this build. But I'd almost prefer a SFP for this rig than FFP.

This a legit option for what I am wanting to accomplish? Anyone have any feedback on an S&B 3-12? Any competitors?

EDIT: I did not realize these are First Focal Plane? $1500 seems very reasonable for German glass in an FFP optic with illumination. What am I missing?

Older thread, but if still looking to hunt Waterbuck in S.A. I can recommend a great place. As for the scope, you’ll more likely use 2x or 3x than anything higher.

I too like Waterbuck!

 

[eamyrick]

Schmidt Bender 3-12x42mm Klassik LM P3L BDC H Riflescope 645-811-882-40-05A02

FREE SHIPPING on Schmidt Bender 3-12x42mm Klassik LM P3L BDC H Riflescope 645-811-882-40-05A02

www.eurooptic.com

S&B said this model BDC-H has the 4.8 mils

 

[atmat]

Schmidt Bender 3-12x42mm Klassik LM P3L BDC H Riflescope 645-811-882-40-05A02

FREE SHIPPING on Schmidt Bender 3-12x42mm Klassik LM P3L BDC H Riflescope 645-811-882-40-05A02

www.eurooptic.com

S&B said this model BDC-H has the 4.8 mils

That’s correct. Many of us bought it back in early summer and confirmed here.

 

[prm]

That is a really nice looking scope. Size, weight, reticle, focal plane, a lot to like about that!

 

[Formidilosus]

Any chance you have done some durability testing on these?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They generally work correctly without issue.

 

[JRS3]

I have that scope with illuminated dot reticle. It adjusts very well and seems very tough. However, it flared badly on me this year. A buck came out with a doe at daylight, to the east at 120 yards. I could clearly see the buck through my binos but when I put the gun up, it was like looking into a whiteout fog/snow storm but there was neither that morning. At first, I thought the scope was fogged but I tilted it up towards the treetops to check the image and it was clear. When I dropped back down on the buck, it was a complete whiteout and couldn’t see him. It took another 3-4 mins before I could faintly make out the deer’s shoulder. I squeezed off and heard the bullet impact but had no idea what had happened. Fortunately, the buck dropped but there was no way I could tell…..I have many brands of scopes and have shot at first and last light in similar situations but have never experienced that….I contacted SB and they offered to check the scope, which was bought new about a year ago. I am going to send it back after the season…..I have a 50mm Klassik and it has not shown the issue. I also learned that the Klassiks have an “upper 80’s” light transmission due to being an older design….

This was my recent experience posted in another thread on the scope.

 

[spartanhunter]

Gotcha. I’ve not heard that about the extreme ends of the erector. I’m planning to get it mounted on a Tikka with the new UM rings, so I’ll try that first and see if I have any issues.

How'd this go? I'm considering the same on my 6.5CM

Looks like I should be able to use it effectively out to 600yd without worrying about running out of adjustment Does that sound right?

 

[Macintosh]

mine is on a flat rail (no built in elevation) on a 6.5cm factory tikka 24" barrel, and 3.2 mils gets me to 500-550 yards. 4.8 gets me to 650 even at low elevation.

 

[atmat]

How'd this go? I'm considering the same on my 6.5CM

Looks like I should be able to use it effectively out to 600yd without worrying about running out of adjustment Does that sound right?

Yep. Probably more if you’re at elevation, though I don’t have a 6.5cm and was too lazy to look up drop for you.

 

[spartanhunter]

Yep. Probably more if you’re at elevation, though I don’t have a 6.5cm and was too lazy to look up drop for you.

mine is on a flat rail (no built in elevation) on a 6.5cm factory tikka 24" barrel, and 3.2 mils gets me to 500-550 yards. 4.8 gets me to 650 even at low elevation.

All good. I looked up the drop and its fine 600-650 is where i expect to hit 4.8. Where I get confused is using up travel during the zero and knowing if that is going to affect me or not. Seems that I can just read straight off a drop chart and see where I hit 4.8?

 

[Macintosh]

if you are mounted low, even on a rail you should be pretty close to center with your zero--I believe that scope has 10.8 mils of total travel, so a little more than 4.8mils of travel from center in the erector. This means you have a little wiggle room in your zero while still maintaining the full 4.8 mils of useable travel. I think (??) you are more likely to have an issue if you are in high rings though.

You could ensure you had maximum useable elevation with an elevated rail (which would put your zero into the un-used portion of the elevation travel above your zero), but I am not aware of any elevated rails that are flat-enough for that scope. Assuming the 10.8mils of total travel is correct for both the 3.2mil and 4.8mil versions, a 15moa rail would have a 100 yard zero almost bottomed out, so I would want a 5moa or 10moa rail if you went that route just to make sure the erector wasnt at its extreme limit of travel at your zero. When I looked last I couldnt find any rails for my gun except 0moa and 20moa rails...there used to be a few 10moa ones, but it appeared at the time those were no longer being made. That scope is unique among all I have ever used in that it is the turret itself that limits the travel to 4.8mils, not the erector travel--so even with a rail you will not get more than 4.8mils of travel, so there isnt really any major advantage to going with a bigger rail as long as you have enough useable travel in the erector to take adavanatage of all 4.8mils that the turret allows.

 

[atmat]

All good. I looked up the drop and its fine 600-650 is where i expect to hit 4.8. Where I get confused is using up travel during the zero and knowing if that is going to affect me or not. Seems that I can just read straight off a drop chart and see where I hit 4.8?

if you are mounted low, even on a rail you should be pretty close to center with your zero--I believe that scope has 10.8 mils of total travel, so a little more than 4.8mils of travel from center in the erector. This means you have a little wiggle room in your zero while still maintaining the full 4.8 mils of useable travel. I think (??) you are more likely to have an issue if you are in high rings though.

You could ensure you had maximum useable elevation with an elevated rail (which would put your zero into the un-used portion of the elevation travel above your zero), but I am not aware of any elevated rails that are flat-enough for that scope. Assuming the 10.8mils of total travel is correct for both the 3.2mil and 4.8mil versions, a 15moa rail would have a 100 yard zero almost bottomed out, so I would want a 5moa or 10moa rail if you went that route just to make sure the erector wasnt at its extreme limit of travel at your zero. When I looked last I couldnt find any rails for my gun except 0moa and 20moa rails...there used to be a few 10moa ones, but it appeared at the time those were no longer being made. That scope is unique among all I have ever used in that it is the turret itself that limits the travel to 4.8mils, not the erector travel--so even with a rail you will not get more than 4.8mils of travel, so there isnt really any major advantage to going with a bigger rail as long as you have enough useable travel in the erector to take adavanatage of all 4.8mils that the turret allows.

@Macintosh is correct. You’re limited by turret to 4.8 mils, and you have a little elevation beyond that to zero.

The simplest solution is to zero your rifle at 100 and see how much elevation you have left. If it’s <4.8 and you need all 4.8, then a 10MOA rail will be needed. I think I read SRS is working on a low-profile one.