S&B 3-12x42 Klassik for hunting

@KenLee I know you are able to hunt an hour after sunset where you live, you have mentioned this many times. You are in the overwhelming minority there, AND while I certainly appreciate low light performance since I'm often in 100% canopy cover under cloudy no-moon conditions, this particular cross is in a different league than any other illuminated scope I have ever used. If you've used this specific scope in particular and found it problematic, fine, your eyes are different than mine...but if you havent used this specific scope I think 99% of the people out there will find the lower settings so dim as to be useless even well-past legal shooting hours, and will find themselves using setting 2-4 even in "the dark".
I don't mind giving it another try. Maybe my buddy's was an "over achiever" on illumination.
 
Yes, but I do have some astigmatism. Not a huge amount, cause I've had the peepers worked on a few times which corrected most.
An illuminated tiny dot always seems better to my eyes than an illuminated cross.


You definitely have an eye issue or that scopes illumination was messed up. The illumination in these scopes are specifically designed for night shooting under moonlight.

However, I do prefer a dot versus a cross.
 
You definitely have an eye issue or that scopes illumination was messed up. The illumination in these scopes are specifically designed for night shooting under moonlight.

However, I do prefer a dot versus a cross.
I'll admit a bias going in.
Think Tom Hanks Saturday Night Live Black Jeopardy: "Skinny women can do this for you?"
"Not a damn thing!"
 
Not with your eyes.
How early/ late do you get hunt game in your area?
If I can see it without artificial light or electronic enhancement (no thermal, FLIR, or NODs), I can shoot it legally. I have had the scope out on starless nights miles away from artificial light and found the lowest setting to still be too low and no washout 2-3 settings higher.

The limitation is being able to identify legal animals.
 
For those who have used the reticle: is the 1.0 mil increments a hindrance? I find myself often using/needing the 0.5 increments on my mavens. Often bracketing the vitals between 0.5 and 1.0 mils for instance, when the exact hold is somewhat uncertain but i have a fairly good idea of where it’ll fall between.
 
For those who have used the reticle: is the 1.0 mil increments a hindrance?

No, not on game animals. Your brain/eye interpolates between the two known points. If you need .7 mils, you hold where .7 mils would be. Same as you would do with a .5 mil graduated reticle.
 
@willfrye027 I tried this for a while. It worked well for me (pretty ideal actually) at 200-350 yards, but I found I wasnt able to make hits as consistently, that I WAS making when dialing, past that range. Some may be in my head, it worked better on a range than in the field, but aiming to improve my field shooting in that 300-600 yard range I wasnt happy with it and had the turret installed as a result.
 
@willfrye027 I tried this for a while. It worked well for me (pretty ideal actually) at 200-350 yards, but I found I wasnt able to make hits as consistently, that I WAS making when dialing, past that range. Some may be in my head, it worked better on a range than in the field, but aiming to improve my field shooting in that 300-600 yard range I wasnt happy with it and had the turret installed as a result.
I’m talking wind holds..definitely would get the version with a turret for dialing elevation 👍🏻
 
I think I'll have to try one of these out, for a pure hunting scope they seem to tick a lot of boxes.
The limited elevation is mildly annoying but it probably will never be an issue.

Just need to find a way to get one in New Zealand.
 
I think I'll have to try one of these out, for a pure hunting scope they seem to tick a lot of boxes.
The limited elevation is mildly annoying but it probably will never be an issue.

Just need to find a way to get one in New Zealand.
I used a 20 MOA rail for mine on my 17.75" 6ARC and can get 600 yards of travel with a 100 yard zero. There's not a lot of rifles slower than a cut 6ARC. LOL.
 
I used a 20 MOA rail for mine on my 17.75" 6ARC and can get 600 yards of travel with a 100 yard zero. There's not a lot of rifles slower than a cut 6ARC. LOL.
How much more elevation do you have to play with zero?
Could you zero at 200 or 300 and still have 4.8 clicks left?
 
How much more elevation do you have to play with zero?
Could you zero at 200 or 300 and still have 4.8 clicks left?

Total elevation travel is ~10.8 mils
Depends on your rifle and cartridge how many mils you’ll have left over once zeroed


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Total elevation travel is ~10.8 mils
Depends on your rifle and cartridge how many mils you’ll have left over once zeroed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oof, that's not many mils to play with.
I guess a 20moa rail is a safe bet to get the full 4.8mils from the elevation turret.
 
Oof, that's not many mils to play with.
I guess a 20moa rail is a safe bet to get the full 4.8mils from the elevation turret.

My slowest gun with a 3-12 klassik is a 16.1” 223. It’s a tikka receiver and sportsmatch rings and has about 6.5 mils of elevation with a 100 yard zero.
But yeah 20moa is like 5.5 mils so you’d probably zero very low and have a bunch of unused elevation


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How much more elevation do you have to play with zero?
Could you zero at 200 or 300 and still have 4.8 clicks left?
I have more than 4.8 mils left with the 100 yard zero. That 4.8 mils that the dialing turret will turn gives me the 600ish yards

I think I had about 3 mils left with the original flat scope mounts.
 
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Haven’t actually confirmed it yet but the ballistics calculations show 700yds is about 4.7mils for my 7SAUM and 180gr hybrid target so I’m good with that!
 
Haven’t actually confirmed it yet but the ballistics calculations show 700yds is about 4.7mils for my 7SAUM and 180gr hybrid target so I’m good with that!
Yeah I get exactly 800 yards with 4.8MIL and a 150eldx. this intrigues me. I see the P3L is now $1160 though
 
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