S&B 3-12x42 Klassik for hunting

Macintosh

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@Beetroot The glass on these is very good, although that was my last consideration when getting mine—I wanted a ffp scope with mil reticle holds that would hold zero and had a reticle that was still easily useable at 3x. I cant comment on how it compares to schmidts other scopes.
The glass is Very sharp edge to edge. Not quite as contrasty as a vx5, but every bit as sharp and gathers every bit as much light. The only downside to glass I have heard is a few people have mentioned glare on them looking into shadows with the sun in your face—I have never had this issue with mine, but Ive seen folks mention it here so its probably a thing under specific conditions. I did a side by side comparison with my wifes vx scope a year or two ago at last light and the schmidt won by a minute or so. I posted those pics here, I’ll see if I can link to that theead. Edit: here you go, post # 23 plus a few below that:
Post in thread 'FFP Reticle image thread'
https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/ffp-reticle-image-thread.299649/post-3135823

Regarding parallax—I initially got this scope with capped turrets, intending to only use the reticle for holdovers. That works well for me to about 350 yards, but on deer vital--sized targets beyond this range I found I wanted to be a little more precise than I was able with just holds every full 1 mil. So I sent it to s&b and had the bdc turret installed, and had the parallax set to 250 yards. The scope is just as crisp at all ranges, the only down side is that when you are BOTH at very short range (50 yards +\-) AND at 12x, the edges of the image are distorted a bit. I live at 3x and only zoom as needed, so this is a non-issue for me. Below max zoom at very close range the image is still crisp.
 
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amassi

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What's the glass like on these scopes?

The price is getting up there but is relatively cheap for a Schmidt, so I'm guessing the glass isn't at the same level as a PM2/higher priced S&B scope.

Beautiful, crisp, great at gathering light


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Regarding the price decrease I went and found the post. No more timeline information in the thread, only the "limited time" of the first post.

xGVaq42.png
 

TxLite

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The only downside to glass I have heard is a few people have mentioned glare on them looking into shadows with the sun in your face
I am one of these people. I’m not sure if it was just my particular scope or the lighting conditions present when I used it. But I compared side by side with my Trijicon tenmile 3-18x50 and the tenmile did not have the same issue.

I’ve done some google searching since then and have seen others that experienced the same, but it doesn’t seem to be a universal experience. It was only an issue for me in early/last light. In full sun it was a very nice scope and I hated to send it back. I reached out to form and he suggested that a sunshade would help (it probably would) but I never got around to trying it
 
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I am one of these people. I’m not sure if it was just my particular scope or the lighting conditions present when I used it. But I compared side by side with my Trijicon tenmile 3-18x50 and the tenmile did not have the same issue.

I’ve done some google searching since then and have seen others that experienced the same, but it doesn’t seem to be a universal experience. It was only an issue for me in early/last light. In full sun it was a very nice scope and I hated to send it back. I reached out to form and he suggested that a sunshade would help (it probably would) but I never got around to trying it
I leave the sun shades on my optics 24/7 since there's no optical downside to it. Sure it looks kind of funny on some scopes but that's really the only downside. I believe this sun shade below (available other places in stock I assume) is the one that fits the 3-12x42 Klassik.

 

TxLite

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I leave the sun shades on my optics 24/7 since there's no optical downside to it. Sure it looks kind of funny on some scopes but that's really the only downside. I believe this sun shade below (available other places in stock I assume) is the one that fits the 3-12x42 Klassik.

Almost bought one the other day when I saw the sale price just to try it again but the aluminum shades were OOS and without handling the rubber ones I wasn’t sure how I’d like it. Based off the previous experience I decided to move forward with a credo 2.5-15 instead.

Features wise these are pretty much exactly what I am looking for and might eventually give them another chance some day with a sunshade
 
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Personally I'd use a sun shade on basically any optic you bring. Hell, I have a Tangent Theta on the way and will still use a sun shade on it for hunting.
 

Fire_9

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For those of you that have done it, what it cost and what's the turnaround time to have the parallax adjusted on these?
 

amassi

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For those of you that have done it, what it cost and what's the turnaround time to have the parallax adjusted on these?

They did not charge for the last 2, only paid shipping.
Jerry quoted 3-4 weeks and they were back in 2.


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Macintosh

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For those of you that have done it, what it cost and what's the turnaround time to have the parallax adjusted on these?
Unless you are adding the turret, shoot it first—highly likely its a non-issue in the first place.
 

Macintosh

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Not a fan of lighted cross vs small dot. Washes rest of view out at very low light
Have you used this specific scope? At illum setting below 5 you cant even see that the illumination is turned on, even in lower light. Its definitely not washing out anything unless you have it turned up too bright for lower light conditions. Its a night-hunting illumination, not a daylight-bright illumination on this scope.
 

sdupontjr

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I'll chime in being I have had both the Klassik and now the Polar. I don't mean to speak on Kenlee behalf, but I bet what he means by washed out is the illumination in low light situations. The glass on the Klassik is fantastic. I ran the #4 dot reticle on both the Klassik and Polar. Both were 56mm optics. The dot on the Klassik is slightly larger than the dot on the Polar. The Polar is almost like a pin prick, which is fantastic in low light situations.

Most optics that have illuminated reticles get this wrong and this is where SB gets it correct. I run my Polar on setting 1 or 2 in low light situations. The reason for this is it allows you to turn the illumination so low that it doesn't overpower your pupil and thus blind you at critical hunting times in thick brush. The Klassik I had, 2.5-10x56, had similar illumination but the dot was slightly larger. When I sold the Klassik to upgrade to the Polar, I decided to go with the 4-16x56 because I also hunt open fields and pipelines. Thus, the added magnification helps for those longer shots and also identification of antlers.

So back the the illuminated crosshair vs dot. Any addition light that is brought into the objective view will dilate the pupil. No matter how much more, it will still do it. Thus, is why the center dot of a most reticles is the preferred choice of hunters, at least here in the thick woods of South Louisiana, to use in low light situations. We don't care if its daylight bright. better off, its best if it isn't daylight, that way you know the setting are very low and will be low light useable.

Oh and I didn't have any glare issues in either of mine. But I did read where some did.
 

Macintosh

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@sdupontjr Im interpreting the same—I just find the illuminated cross in the klassik to be so dim that it doesnt wash out my pupil even at extremely low light—thats why I asked if he’d used this specific scope. Hunting in many places in europe is allowed all night, and many of these scopes are designed specifically for that…hence the crazy-dim illumination and 56mm obj scopes. Im simply saying that unless you have used a scope where the illumination isnt even visible IN LOW LIGHT until you are in the mid or even upper range of settings, you are not going to find this particular cross to be too bright. The illumination on the klassic I find to be great without washing out in very dark conditions, its the daylight settings that I think are sub-par since they arent bright enough in some cases and there is considerable bleed.
Its also possible there is some variation in these scopes, but the above is my experience. I hunt in very dark timber a lot and dont think anyone but perhaps a fully-dark night-hunting specialist would have any issue with the cross on this scope being too bright, and even then Im skeptical.
 

Macintosh

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@KenLee I know you are able to hunt an hour after sunset where you live, you have mentioned this many times. You are in the overwhelming minority there, AND while I certainly appreciate low light performance since I'm often in 100% canopy cover under cloudy no-moon conditions, this particular cross is in a different league than any other illuminated scope I have ever used. If you've used this specific scope in particular and found it problematic, fine, your eyes are different than mine...but if you havent used this specific scope I think 99% of the people out there will find the lower settings so dim as to be useless even well-past legal shooting hours, and will find themselves using setting 2-4 even in "the dark".
 
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