RokStok

Just came in. Could run socket and sandpaper down the barrel channel. Nothing is touching though. Pleasantly surprised for a aftermarket stock. The ascension 3d printed mags feed like butter and lock up fine with the factory bottom plastic. This gun came out of a ctr stock and bm that I swapped it to shortly after getting it 7-8 years ago.
 

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If you need just a little LOP added like I did (to get the Maven to work with recoil pins) this Pachmayer pad is pretty close and if you're not after perfect the grinding is pretty easy. I've been putting it off and I'm sitting here waiting for a kid to show up to go hunting tonight and I knocked it out in a few minutes.

Observe the slight lip that isn't covered with the factory screw holes.

 

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This one fits better.


Harder to work with and produces an inferior product to the Pachmayr tho.
 

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What's everyone using for sling attachment in the flush cups?

Seems like Grovtec is the go-to, but I don't see how I'd swap the push lock fittings on my quake claw slings for the QD fittings. Would have to push the strap through the rubber portion as the "long" end (bottom on the attached image) of the strap is sewn together after the fitting. Not sure I can get the strap back through the rubber if I pull it out.

1759463941376.png
 
What's everyone using for sling attachment in the flush cups?

Seems like Grovtec is the go-to, but I don't see how I'd swap the push lock fittings on my quake claw slings for the QD fittings. Would have to push the strap through the rubber portion as the "long" end (bottom on the attached image) of the strap is sewn together after the fitting. Not sure I can get the strap back through the rubber if I pull it out.

View attachment 944774
They make a qd flush cup version
 
What's everyone using for sling attachment in the flush cups?

Seems like Grovtec is the go-to, but I don't see how I'd swap the push lock fittings on my quake claw slings for the QD fittings. Would have to push the strap through the rubber portion as the "long" end (bottom on the attached image) of the strap is sewn together after the fitting. Not sure I can get the strap back through the rubber if I pull it out.

View attachment 944774
I have a pile of those Quake Claw Slings and ran into the same problem. I didn't want to use my SAP Positional Sling and poached my Grov Tec QD sling swivels off of it and put them on my Wilderness Langlois Rhodesian Sling (a little simpler and less bulky), as the standard sling swivels were not sewn in.
 
What's everyone using for sling attachment in the flush cups?

Seems like Grovtec is the go-to, but I don't see how I'd swap the push lock fittings on my quake claw slings for the QD fittings. Would have to push the strap through the rubber portion as the "long" end (bottom on the attached image) of the strap is sewn together after the fitting. Not sure I can get the strap back through the rubber if I pull it out.

View attachment 944774
 
First Rokstok on order. I'm excited to get my hands on a better stock than T3X factory. I have spent way too much time in this forum lately. Thanks for the 498 pages of material.
 
Received my two new rokstoks from July drop. Heights of inlets on both the Tikka and Rem700 sa are off. The Tikka: rear action screws isprotuding WAY above cocking priece race way, cannot close bolt. Front screw is likely well up into body and would contact bolt lugs. Cannot get mag into bottom plastic.

Rem 700: had to relive inlet for hawkins dbm, once again action to bottom metal height is way off. Cannot even fit an AW mag in far enough on aw cut action to get mag to latch up. Had to open up bolt cut to get the bolt closed all the way.

Once again, typical Stockys poor QC and major lack of adherence to specs. I shouldn't have to shim a bottom metal to get mags to latch, nor should I be having to shorten action screws by 0.200" to get clearance of a bolt. It's not difficult to measure "drops" from the action inlet to bottom metal inlet and make it right. I manufactured wood stocks in CNC for a few years in college. M5 pillar height is an industry wide spec, Tikka pillar height from action to bottom plastic, is a spec. Stockys don't get this, or they don't care, or they just keep cranking low quality stuff out cuz it's revenue. Last stockys products I'll be buying.
 
Received my two new rokstoks from July drop. Heights of inlets on both the Tikka and Rem700 sa are off. The Tikka: rear action screws isprotuding WAY above cocking priece race way, cannot close bolt. Front screw is likely well up into body and would contact bolt lugs. Cannot get mag into bottom plastic.

Rem 700: had to relive inlet for hawkins dbm, once again action to bottom metal height is way off. Cannot even fit an AW mag in far enough on aw cut action to get mag to latch up. Had to open up bolt cut to get the bolt closed all the way.

Once again, typical Stockys poor QC and major lack of adherence to specs. I shouldn't have to shim a bottom metal to get mags to latch, nor should I be having to shorten action screws by 0.200" to get clearance of a bolt. It's not difficult to measure "drops" from the action inlet to bottom metal inlet and make it right. I manufactured wood stocks in CNC for a few years in college. M5 pillar height is an industry wide spec, Tikka pillar height from action to bottom plastic, is a spec. Stockys don't get this, or they don't care, or they just keep cranking low quality stuff out cuz it's revenue. Last stockys products I'll be buying.
I believe unknown munitions owns final QC and Jake assured us that their red carpet cards would solve this issue. Sad to see this is still an issue after a couple years.

Such interesting creative products coming out of that shop but the Fierce-level QC makes them a hard pass (for me) until I observe a solid year of exceptional workmanship.
 
I believe unknown munitions owns final QC and Jake assured us that their red carpet cards would solve this issue. Sad to see this is still an issue after a couple years.

Such interesting creative products coming out of that shop but the Fierce-level QC makes them a hard pass (for me) until I observe a solid year of exceptional workmanship.

I thought the same thing - doesn't UM do the final QC on these?

At the end of the day, it's an aftermarket part and there may or may not be fitment issues. I just don't want to have to go out of my way grinding down action screws and shimming bottom metal to make things work. I'll find out in a few months when I get my first Rokstok delivered.
 
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