RokStok

[Sadler]

So, I had to shim the action bolt holes because the action was sitting too low in the stock. The magazine latch wouldn't function and the bolt was extremely stiff. Putting a shim in cleared up both of those issues. My question is, are the shims fine long term or should I figure something else out?

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I’ve had to do that for both of my tikka actions with factory bottom metal.

 

[deerhunter628]

I had to shim my Christinsen Arms LA in both of my LA Rokstoks. No long term reports yet, but i could not cycle the bolt without the shim washers.

 

[Grundy53]

What action and what bottom metal?

Remington 700 UM M5

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[Grundy53]

Did you just use the appropriate size washers for shims under the bottom metal?

I don't know the appropriate size. So probably not. Lol

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[Formidilosus]

Remington 700 UM M5

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If you used washers, it should be fine, but personally I would bed it after the season.


For others- the R700 pattern actions are not all exactly the same. That’s why chassis can be very loose fits depending on whose action is put in. I’ve got three different R700 pattern custom actions, and they are not interchangeable in stocks when bedded, or when the inlet is tight. They are close generally, but tweaking the inlet is a thing with them.

 

[deerhunter628]

If you used washers, it should be fine, but personally I would bed it after the season.


For others- the R700 pattern actions are not all exactly the same. That’s why chassis can be very loose fits depending on whose action is put in. I’ve got three different R700 pattern custom actions, and they are not interchangeable in stocks when bedded, or when the inlet is tight. They are close generally, but tweaking the inlet is a thing with them.

Are you saying that bedding the action should eliminate the need for shims in the Rem 700?

 

[Grundy53]

If you used washers, it should be fine, but personally I would bed it after the season.


For others- the R700 pattern actions are not all exactly the same. That’s why chassis can be very loose fits depending on whose action is put in. I’ve got three different R700 pattern custom actions, and they are not interchangeable in stocks when bedded, or when the inlet is tight. They are close generally, but tweaking the inlet is a thing with them.

Thank you

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[Formidilosus]

Are you saying that bedding the action should eliminate the need for shims in the Rem 700?

I was saying that I would bed the action and bottom metal.

 

[deerhunter628]

I was saying that I would bed the action and bottom metal.

Ok. Thanks. I have bed actions but i have never bed bottom metal. I will need to study up on youtube

 

[khuber84]

Ok. Thanks. I have bed actions but i have never bed bottom metal. I will need to study up on youtube

If your pillar height is good(the bottom metal is sitting firmly on and square to pillars), and the action is bedded, there's minimal to no advantage to bedding the bottom metal. If the inlet is poor and there is huge gaps, I could see the aesthetic purpose. I have had a few mini chassis that the bottom metal wasn't sitting flush/square. I did bed them so that the bottom metal showed no initiated flex upon torquing.

Maybe make an experiment of it. Shoot the rifle w/o bottom metal bedded, then bed and re-shoot. See if it's worth your time/efforts. It was not in my experience.

 

[ChrisAU]

If you used washers, it should be fine, but personally I would bed it after the season.


For others- the R700 pattern actions are not all exactly the same. That’s why chassis can be very loose fits depending on whose action is put in. I’ve got three different R700 pattern custom actions, and they are not interchangeable in stocks when bedded, or when the inlet is tight. They are close generally, but tweaking the inlet is a thing with them.

Just this calendar year I’ve built rifles on Terminus, Falkor, Impact, Pure Precision, Defiance, and American Rifle Co in Manners and MDT stocks/chassis and never had a single issue with action to bm/pillar height. Bedding them would obviously cause issues in design differences, but that measurement is an odd one to run into issues with.

 

[Formidilosus]

Just this calendar year I’ve built rifles on Terminus, Falkor, Impact, Pure Precision, Defiance, and American Rifle Co in Manners and MDT stocks/chassis and never had a single issue with action to bm/pillar height. Bedding them would obviously cause issues in design differences, but that measurement is an odd one to run into issues with.

Can’t say on the bottom metal depth issue, I was generally referring to the talk about general inlet issues with M700’s here.

Chassis have their own BM and it should all be lined up. However, their also is tendency to inlet on the loose side to make sure everything fits with chassis. Stocks don’t, and there certainly are issues that can and do happen between different action, stocks, and bottom metals. The “custom” M700 isn’t a perfect plug and play anymore.

 

[deerhunter628]

If your pillar height is good(the bottom metal is sitting firmly on and square to pillars), and the action is bedded, there's minimal to no advantage to bedding the bottom metal. If the inlet is poor and there is huge gaps, I could see the aesthetic purpose. I have had a few mini chassis that the bottom metal wasn't sitting flush/square. I did bed them so that the bottom metal showed no initiated flex upon torquing.

Maybe make an experiment of it. Shoot the rifle w/o bottom metal bedded, then bed and re-shoot. See if it's worth your time/efforts. It was not in my experience.

I think i should bed the action anyway. Hopefully that will take care of everything.

 

[ezwy]

First animal with the Rokstok. WI whitetail. This one out of a tree saddle free handed of all the shooting positions. Worked great on a quick shot. I love this stock.
View attachment 795650

Any issues seeing your suppressor in the scope with that setup?

 

[WI-Carcosa]

Any issues seeing your suppressor in the scope with that setup?

There is a little bit at the bottom of the reticle at 2.5 zoom but i didn’t think it was prohibitive or even noticed during the hunt. With zoom slightly higher and up it’s a non issue

 

[doverpack12]

I finally got my Rokstok installed after receiving in August. Had a lot going on at that time and I hunt from opening of bow season through end of rifle, today.
Anyway I ordered a UM recoil lug to replace the MT thinking that would solve the lug protrusion problems seen in July. I pulled the MT with vice grips before measuring protrusion ( probably should have measured first), installed the UM. That took a punch set hammer and nylon punch, was extremely tight and I didn’t know how hard to hit or where to support the stock when I appeared to reach bottom. Measured the UM to find it was protruding .105” or so, measured my action lug depth .095” of so. Tried to install which was tough to tell when I was in the lug, and torqued to 65 in-lbs. thought the action hole on the side looked a little high but barrel was generally parallel with forend top edge. Pulled action screws and when going to remove stock with barrel clamped in a vice, it was tight and not moving easily, so decided to leave it and replace the screws to 65 in-lbs torque. Still looks high slightly so will see how it shoots. Should be pretty apparent quickly if the lug protrusion is creating stress. This rifle shoots excellent.

Maybe I messed up something UM had checked/resolved but I would recommend measuring protrusion when received before you do anything.

Rest of the stock and fit looks good

 

[Hill Difficulty]

Ok. Thanks. I have bed actions but i have never bed bottom metal. I will need to study up on youtube

khuber84's response to you is spot-on. Bed a pillar for the front action screw and there's no need to bed your DM (unless loose fit/gapped around the inlet opening). Bedding a front pillar does not necessarily require bedding around the tang, front screw, or full receiver.

Hoping to be helpful, here's a list of 700 considerations based on my (1) Rokstok experience + what I'm seeing posted by others/PMs:

• The Accu-Block represented by Stocky's is meaningless if (1) the receiver sits too low, (2) there's space behind the recoil lug, and/or (3) the barrel sits too low in the channel
• If a barreled action sits to low, fair to guess that there will be a DM feeding problem
• I doubt there will be any need for a rear pillar
• If you need to buy a front pillar, be aware that there are different lengths per 700 SA, MA, LA - no matter, it's worth having all three sizes on hand in case there might be a height or feeding issue
• The bottom of the pillar is to be set flush with the bottom flat of the DM metal inlet
• Understand that pillars ensure ideal spacing for d-mag position and feeding
• Make sure you test your magazine feeding before bedding the front pillar
• Will likely need to buy a set of extra-length action screws, then grind to height
• Pillar drill bit is 9/16" and be sure to use a drill press and a vise

Suggestion to Rokstok stakeholders: Do like Manners and deliver 700 stocks with 9/16" holes for action screws, include a loose set of pillars for the new stock owner to make his own decision.

Note that the front pillar I used created the perfect height for barrel clearance and mag feeding, so ended up being an easy fix.


See pillar reference for Front and Rear:


Am curious how many 700 Rokstok owners received a true drop-in. A tapered, larger diameter CF barrel might give a false sense of proper height if the fatter end of the barrel is sitting on the channel. Run a dollar under the barrel to determine whether the barrel floats in front of the lug.

Edit to add that washer/shimming around the front screw is a smart fix till making a pillar or bedding commitment.

 

[khuber84]

Am curious how many 700 Rokstok owners received a true drop-in. A tapered, larger diameter CF barrel might give a false sense of proper height if the fatter end of the barrel is sitting on the channel.

My Tikka was money, no bedding or fitment issues, it shoots great, no feeding issues so action to dbm heights must be close. My 700 was pillar bedded by a smith down the road, barrel channel opened to lt palma from #2 sporter so it was completely worked over.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Kneeling, unsupported, 120 yards. Rokstok big game kill number 13…

 

[deerhunter628]

khuber84's response to you is spot-on. Bed a pillar for the front action screw and there's no need to bed your DM (unless loose fit/gapped around the inlet opening). Bedding a front pillar does not necessarily require bedding around the tang, front screw, or full receiver.

Hoping to be helpful, here's a list of 700 considerations based on my (1) Rokstok experience + what I'm seeing posted by others/PMs:

• The Accu-Block represented by Stocky's is meaningless if (1) the receiver sits too low, (2) there's space behind the recoil lug, and/or (3) the barrel sits too low in the channel
• If a barreled action sits to low, fair to guess that there will be a DM feeding problem
• I doubt there will be any need for a rear pillar
• If you need to buy a front pillar, be aware that there are different lengths per 700 SA, MA, LA - no matter, it's worth having all three sizes on hand in case there might be a height or feeding issue
• The bottom of the pillar is to be set flush with the bottom flat of the DM metal inlet
• Understand that pillars ensure ideal spacing for d-mag position and feeding
• Make sure you test your magazine feeding before bedding the front pillar
• Will likely need to buy a set of extra-length action screws, then grind to height
• Pillar drill bit is 9/16" and be sure to use a drill press and a vise

Suggestion to Rokstok stakeholders: Do like Manners and deliver 700 stocks with 9/16" holes for action screws, include a loose set of pillars for the new stock owner to make his own decision.

Note that the front pillar I used created the perfect height for barrel clearance and mag feeding, so ended up being an easy fix.


See pillar reference for Front and Rear:
View attachment 799473

Am curious how many 700 Rokstok owners received a true drop-in. A tapered, larger diameter CF barrel might give a false sense of proper height if the fatter end of the barrel is sitting on the channel. Run a dollar under the barrel to determine whether the barrel floats in front of the lug.

Edit to add that washer/shimming around the front screw is a smart fix till making a pillar or bedding commitment.

That just might be more headache than i want. Those barreled actions will probably just go back in to the factory stocks.