RokStok

[Stocky]

Feels like I can’t push forward enough to snap it in. I tried marking front of lug and front of slot and believe I am far enough forward. It appears to be tapped in far enough. I can’t get it out to just out my factory lug in to try

Try fit it without the lug in place that should show you what it shoulde look like seated.

 

[TX_Diver]

Try fit it without the lug in place that should show you what it shoulde look like seated.

Can’t get it out otherwise I would

 

[TX_Diver]

I’ll call UM tomorrow and ask. It’s probably something I’m doing wrong but with other stocks I’ve been able to figure it out eventually.

Stock looks good otherwise and glad to have it in time!

 

[Reburn]

Holy smokes, have you guys actually had that screw come loose? I’ve never ugga dugga’d it that tight nor had it come loose but you guys got me questioning it now haha.

yes. but not from the factory. Gunsmith put a timney trigger in and it came loose.

 

[Juan_ID]

You all convinced me, mine are coming apart and retightened tonight.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

You all convinced me, mine are coming apart and retightened tonight.

In almost all cases of that screw coming loose, it’s been because of an aftermarket spring being installed and then the screw not loctited or paint penned, and under torqued when put back in.

If yours is factory and never been touched you will probably be just fine. Always safe to paint pen it and check it while you have it apart though.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Feels like I can’t push forward enough to snap it in. I tried marking front of lug and front of slot and believe I am far enough forward. It appears to be tapped in far enough. I can’t get it out to just out my factory lug in to try

Bummer. Yeah call UM and see what the suggestion is. Please post findings here if you don’t mind. I’m curious.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Can’t get it out otherwise I would

Do you have a micro fiber towel and good quality vice grips? I would think that should get it out unless they epoxy them in now. I take mine all out, paint pen them in personally and tap them down with a small plastic hammer.

 

[TX_Diver]

Do you have a micro fiber towel and good quality vice grips? I would think that should get it out unless they epoxy them in now. I take mine all out, paint pen them in personally and tap them down with a small plastic hammer.

Some where lol. I know my tools are mostly accessible but I did reorganize some for the move. Will take a look tomorrow

 

[Bluumoon]

Holy smokes, have you guys actually had that screw come loose? I’ve never ugga dugga’d it that tight nor had it come loose but you guys got me questioning it now haha.

Yes, and turns out when it’s loose, the rifle goes bang upon closing the bolt. Shot mine for a 100 rounds or so no issue, showed up to class and 1st safety check it went off.

 

[Juan_ID]

In almost all cases of that screw coming loose, it’s been because of an aftermarket spring being installed and then the screw not loctited or paint penned, and under torqued when put back in.

If yours is factory and never been touched you will probably be just fine. Always safe to paint pen it and check it while you have it apart though.

Gotchya, I’ve had the trigger assembly off a time or two but have never backed the spring screw all the way out and they all still have factory trigger springs. Either way, they’re getting pulled and painted up.

 

[NSI]

Troublingly, my ND was when I actuated the safety after racking a round in. This was years ago. Started obsessively torquing after that.

-J

 

[walk2112]

Hahah yep I’m that guy. It’s not your pic rail that’s the problem, it’s me

I still carry rifles with a sling on the bottom like a Fudd; I just can’t quite get past that. Because most of my barrels are 26” (can’t use a suppressor here, and hate brakes), it makes them want to hang and slide way back instead of straight up unless my sling stud is very far forward (1/2” in the wrong direction is noticeable to me, bunch of my stocks have all kinds of holes drilled from experimenting). That really limits pic rail setups and things end up looking/feeling janky to get it right. Basically the stud has got to be 2” or less from the end of the stock..

After I used a spigot on a bravo for a while I decided I loved that setup..felt like the bipod closer to the barrel and farther forward was a very noticable improvement.

I was prepared to dremel like a fool but thankfully unknown was down to try something different

View attachment 746476View attachment 746477

Any chance you got a picture of this bad boy with a barreled action tightened in it? With recoil lug seated correctly of course (ha) I’m curious about barrel to spigot clearance…as you may have just helped me spend more of my $$$ as you’ve given me an idea for my next RokStok and I’d like to go down the rabbit hole on it haha

 

[Marbles]

I'm starting to think the oversized aftermarket recoil lugs are like many aftermarket Tikka "upgrades" in that they are actually a downgrade.

Interestingly, UM makes most of the real upgrades (RokStok; probably their bolt handle, though I have not tried it; and their scope rings). Which means they can annoy me all they want with bitchy posts about us bitching in this thread and I will still give them my money.

 

[Antares]

In almost all cases of that screw coming loose, it’s been because of an aftermarket spring being installed and then the screw not loctited or paint penned, and under torqued when put back in.

Also happens when people switch between factory and AICS mag, undoing that screw to add or remove the mag retention spring.

 

[kad11]

Other tips and tricks to seat it? I can not get it to sit flush after 20 minutes of messing with it.

I just moved houses so I haven’t found my calipers yet to measure the lug against the factory lug. Unscientifically if I tighten a crescent wrench onto the factory lug I can’t fit it onto my rokstok lug. If I tighten it on the rokstok lug it does slide onto the factory lug.

I'm having trouble getting mine seated too. I can feel the action engage the lug. My Rokstock recoil lug protrudes way further than any of the lugs in the three factory stocks I have. Waiting for an email back from UM. I doubt you're doing anything wrong...

 

[yeti12]

I'm having trouble getting mine seated too. I can feel the action engage the lug. My Rokstock recoil lug protrudes way further than any of the lugs in the three factory stocks I have. Waiting for an email back from UM. I doubt you're doing anything wrong...

There's a pretty shallow cut in the receiver for that lug. If it's sticking up more than a factory stock that's a problem.

 

[Swamper]

So, just out of curiosity. Has anyone that ordered a railed tikka stock after 12-21 received their stock yet?

Yes- order date was 12/22 though. I received it 7/30, tikka single color ARCA/Pic

 

[T_Widdy]

These work great for removing the lugs. Installing the um tikka ring pins and tightening suppressors. Anything you don’t want marred up.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

There's a pretty shallow cut in the receiver for that lug. If it's sticking up more than a factory stock that's a problem.

UM confirmed on a post here that the stock itself has the correct nominal spec for the lug.

I should be getting a new RokStok tomorrow if Fedex isn't lying. I will pull the lug and compare it to the mountain tactical that came with my first RokStok. I also have a couple factory lugs sitting around to compare.

They could have had a batch of recoil lugs that were a touch tall and won't let the action fully seat into the stock. Not sure if all the recoil lugs are made in house at UM now or if they are using a combo of Mountain Tactical and UM lugs?

I measured these, and there is nearly ZERO spec discrepancy between this factory Tikka recoil lug and the Mountain Tactical lug that came with my first RokStok.






I will measure the recoil lug on the new RokStok and compare whenever it shows up from FedEx. Unless someone else having the issue can get to it first.