RokStok

[PaulDogs]

It’s live….

View attachment 656968

Is that the SWFA bubble level? Do you recommend it? I can’t find any posts of you recommending a specific bubble level.

 

[6.5x284]

Kimber would be cool! I’d buy a hunter pretty quick if that happens, especially if I can find one in 243 or even 257 roberts since both have been produced

I already have one on order for Rem 700 clone, but I'd buy a second for a kimber in a second!

 

[khuber84]

@PaulDogs bubble levels are bubble levels. As long as it's visible, and doesn't slip on the tube, they all do the same thing. Most people get hung up on the form(looks) of them VS function. I have some haloX(expensive) and some cheap ass ebay ones. They have both been reliable and worked without issues.

 

[TheM1DoesMyTalking]

It’s live….

View attachment 656968

What is your stock testing procedure? Does it start out the same as your field scope evaluations?

Looking forward to the drop test results!

 

[Dobermann]

@PaulDogs bubble levels are bubble levels. As long as it's visible, and doesn't slip on the tube, they all do the same thing. Most people get hung up on the form(looks) of them VS function. I have some haloX(expensive) and some cheap ass ebay ones. They have both been reliable and worked without issues.

Or not ...

Image courtesy of Frank Galli at Snipers Hide.

 

[khuber84]

Or not ...

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachments/img_0002-jpg.7924942/

Image courtesy of Frank Galli at Snipers Hide.

When it's mounted to a tube, and it's leveled to a level reticle. Nothing can ever change unless the mount slips. Every single bubble in that picture is referencing the pic rail, not one is a tube level.

 

[Antares]

It’s live….

View attachment 656968

Is that the standard 13.5” LOP?

 

[Lonewolf72]

I'd certainly be interested in a Rokstok for a Sauer 100. Such overlooked rifles, but would benefit from a more durable (and even better ergonomics) stock...something other than the "soft-touch" type Ergo-Max stock.

 

[BAKPAKR]

It’s live….

View attachment 656968

I think it looks good.

What did the stock weigh sans any hardware?

Also, what is the plan for the texturing (gripping areas appear to be recessed for something to be applied)?

 

[fwafwow]

“Sporter contour barrel inlet is tight, and will/does touch if pressure is applied-”

Does this mean the sporter inlet is 1/2 a dead cat wide?

 

[Odd1out]

Ruger m77

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk

 

[hereinaz]

I too was/am (as I haven't tried any different yet) a sloped toe guy for proper elevation with rear bag.... until this season.

Both my buddy and I are avid long range shooters. We went into a backcountry hunt fully confident out to pretty long distances. Both of us shot our rifles at 1000 yards at the trailhead before packing it. Spot on.

BOTH OF US shot over the top of our bucks with our first shots on steep uphill angles. 600 & 800 yards. I am very confident at this point it was because of the sloped toe of the stock, and muzzle rise, accompanied and exacerbated by the steep upward shot. Eliminating, or at least managing, two of those components with this RokStok design is very intriguing me now. I look forward to testing the difference in the field.

We’re you in a solid position on the ground?
Or, was it compromised?

I don’t want to move the debate to the toe, but flat toe or angled, people miss at high angle shots if they haven’t practiced or experimented. If you built a solid position, it wasn’t the toe falling. It was the muzzle rising.

The biggest advantage of the stock in high angle shots will come in getting behind the rifle bore to reduce muzzle rise. That’s where you will get the most benefit.

This is why I think it makes a difference at high angle shots. Consider the gravity on a barrel parallel vs a barrel already pointing up at a steep angle has a head start and will therefore jump faster.

You mentioned the fulcrum, consider that the balance point has change dynamics considerably. If you grab a lever laying 3-9 o’clock to lift something 1foot in circumference, which is lifting it off the ground, that is harder grabbing a lever oriented at 11-5 and move it one foot in circumference.

Shooting at a high angle is like shooting a rifle that weighs half as much when it comes to vertical climb. Shooting at a steep angle down doesn’t exaggerate as much but it changes for sure.

In my opinion and experience, high angle shots confuse EVERYONE unless you have shot them in the field.

Little things do make a difference. The angle your rifle is pointed relative to gravity is huge.

I put my money that if you built a solid position like at the trailhead, it wasn’t the rifle toe. But, going to a flat tie won’t hurt either.

 

[hereinaz]

It’s live….

View attachment 656968

Well done. That’s a lot of work. I like the finished version as it became less extreme with the comb angle.

 

[Formidilosus]

Is that the standard 13.5” LOP?

Yes.

I think it looks good.

What did the stock weigh sans any hardware?

Also, what is the plan for the texturing (gripping areas appear to be recessed for something to be applied)?

28oz, and yes there will be a type of pebble texture.

 

[hereinaz]

Or not ...

Image courtesy of Frank Galli at Snipers Hide.

That’s why you can’t throw on a bubble level and trust it.

If you level the scope and then center the bubble, you are good.

 

[Wyo_hntr]

I honestly don't understand the comments about the looks - but maybe to me, when something looks the way it does because that gives it functionality, then that looks good to me ... not so much 'form follows function', but 'functionality is inherently good looking'. Or something.

It's bizarre, I agree.

 

[huntnful]

We’re you in a solid position on the ground?
Or, was it compromised?

I don’t want to move the debate to the toe, but flat toe or angled, people miss at high angle shots if they haven’t practiced or experimented. If you built a solid position, it wasn’t the toe falling. It was the muzzle rising.

The biggest advantage of the stock in high angle shots will come in getting behind the rifle bore to reduce muzzle rise. That’s where you will get the most benefit.

This is why I think it makes a difference at high angle shots. Consider the gravity on a barrel parallel vs a barrel already pointing up at a steep angle has a head start and will therefore jump faster.

You mentioned the fulcrum, consider that the balance point has change dynamics considerably. If you grab a lever laying 3-9 o’clock to lift something 1foot in circumference, which is lifting it off the ground, that is harder grabbing a lever oriented at 11-5 and move it one foot in circumference.

Shooting at a high angle is like shooting a rifle that weighs half as much when it comes to vertical climb. Shooting at a steep angle down doesn’t exaggerate as much but it changes for sure.

In my opinion and experience, high angle shots confuse EVERYONE unless you have shot them in the field.

Little things do make a difference. The angle your rifle is pointed relative to gravity is huge.

I put my money that if you built a solid position like at the trailhead, it wasn’t the rifle toe. But, going to a flat tie won’t hurt either.

Good question. We were both prone off bipods. My shot was steep enough that I had to put my bipod on top of my pack, but still felt plenty solid. I was also shooting a 14lb rifle and could spot impacts with relative ease. But I'm sure it was combination of things. And I agree that the recoil pad above boreline will help more than the toe angle, at least I think so haha. I've also taken steep angle shots and not seen any difference in impact. So I think it could be a case by case thing based on several small factors that are probably not even apparent during each scenario.

 

[Dobermann]

That’s why you can’t throw on a bubble level and trust it.

If you level the scope and then center the bubble, you are good.

The trick is that many bubble levels are either incorporated into ring bases or caps, or attached directly to the rail. This removes the variable of being on a separate ring on a scope, but relies on the bubble being perfect in the first instance - which Frank's photo shows is not always the case.

 

[hereinaz]

Good question. We were both prone off bipods. My shot was steep enough that I had to put my bipod on top of my pack, but still felt plenty solid. I was also shooting a 14lb rifle and could spot impacts with relative ease. But I'm sure it was combination of things. And I agree that the recoil pad above boreline will help more than the toe angle, at least I think so haha. I've also taken steep angle shots and not seen any difference in impact. So I think it could be a case by case thing based on several small factors that are probably not even apparent during each scenario.

The stock will help a lot in awkwardness.

Yeah, steep angle shots are hard because of the many factors that change. Bipod on the pack probably contributed.

I have started shooting long range in the field exclusively off a tripod just to eliminate variables and excel at one thing. It’s too hard to practice all the possible scenarios and I can build a position fast and effectively. Besides that good prone shots are hard to find in the field.

 

[BBob]

As long as you are setting up your scope to track properly with the particular level you are using why would it matter at all if that level was slightly different than another level? If the level is out slightly in reference to the guns true vertical but is correct with the scope at what point is that tiny bit of cant going to be an issue? If I purposely setup my rifle with some cant but the level and the scope are in alignment (tracking properly) at what point will that cant cause me issues?

Another question: How many setup their scopes reticle with a string and plumb bob to align with their level and never check against the true travel/vertical adjustment of the scope? If that’s what you do are you trusting that the manufacturer got the reticle perfectly aligned to the mechanicals of the scope?