Ram 2500 Tire Chains

If you have one set of chains, always chain opposite corners, opposite sides.
Help me understand your point of view, but as I see it this would not give the best possible traction to 4WD vehicles with open diffs.

I envision this setup running into problems with cross axle traction loss - fairly common to encounter when offroading and suspension flexes out. Opposite side / opposite corners tires lose traction and spin, and you’re stuck.

I have so far found it to be true that power follows the path of least resistance in open diffs. Tires with no traction (resistance) spin.

I envision that keeping one axle chained on both sides is better. Both tires will offer similar resistance (and therefore receive similar power) up until you flex out the suspension pretty extremely and one tire is in the air or nearly in the air.

If you place them on opposite sides and opposite corners, aren’t you:

1. Making it less likely that each tire receives similar power, and therefore experiencing wheel spin more frequently

2. Gambling on the fact that you might encounter a situation where you flex out the vehicle and both of your “naked” tires are hanging in the air/loose snow? Now you have to get traction boards or build up a surface to get a “naked” tire to grip? Or swap chains to that tire? If I only chain up my front or rear axle and get stuck, I must build up snow/dirt or get a chained up tire to catch on a traction board. That seems preferable to me.
 
Help me understand your point of view, but as I see it this would not give the best possible traction to 4WD vehicles with open diffs.

I envision this setup running into problems with cross axle traction loss - fairly common to encounter when offroading and suspension flexes out. Opposite side / opposite corners tires lose traction and spin, and you’re stuck.

I have so far found it to be true that power follows the path of least resistance in open diffs. Tires with no traction (resistance) spin.

I envision that keeping one axle chained on both sides is better. Both tires will offer similar resistance (and therefore receive similar power) up until you flex out the suspension pretty extremely and one tire is in the air or nearly in the air.

If you place them on opposite sides and opposite corners, aren’t you:

1. Making it less likely that each tire receives similar power, and therefore experiencing wheel spin more frequently

2. Gambling on the fact that you might encounter a situation where you flex out the vehicle and both of your “naked” tires are hanging in the air/loose snow? Now you have to get traction boards or build up a surface to get a “naked” tire to grip? Or swap chains to that tire? If I only chain up my front or rear axle and get stuck, I must build up snow/dirt or get a chained up tire to catch on a traction board. That seems preferable to me.

Why do you have open diffs?
 
Why do you have open diffs?
I’ve had both open diffs and locked axles. Currently my 1st Gen tundra is open/open- many other vehicles are too. Why does it matter what I have though…?

If you have a locked axle, isn’t it a no brainer to put chains on your locked axle? A locked axle and chains would be a cheat code. No point in putting them opposite sides, opposite corners when by putting them on the locked axle you guarantee that you always have traction to at least one chained tire.

Now, if you have locked front and rear axles (rare in factory form for most vehicles), I suppose I might look at putting them opposite corners. But it’s still impossible to gauruntee that you always have one chained tire with traction (you may get flexed out).

But, I think I’d lean towards putting them on the axle that had more weight on them. Empty truck bed, put them on the front under the engine. Overloaded rear? Put them on the back axle.

There is also an argument to consider that front tires get the chains first since they presumably get the to the nastiest terrain first.

Also, Lokka (an Australian manufacturer of auto locking differential mechanisms) has some interesting insight on why they recommend locking the front axle first. Part of the advantage, as they see it, is helping the vehicle maintain traction when going uphill. It may apply to tire chains. Read it and let me know what you think.

The guidance is Q10 on Lokka’s FAQ page.

I cannot yet post “links” to that FAQ, needs mod approval when I post links, otherwise I would.
 
Help me understand your point of view, but as I see it this would not give the best possible traction to 4WD vehicles with open diffs.

I envision this setup running into problems with cross axle traction loss - fairly common to encounter when offroading and suspension flexes out. Opposite side / opposite corners tires lose traction and spin, and you’re stuck.

I have so far found it to be true that power follows the path of least resistance in open diffs. Tires with no traction (resistance) spin.

I envision that keeping one axle chained on both sides is better. Both tires will offer similar resistance (and therefore receive similar power) up until you flex out the suspension pretty extremely and one tire is in the air or nearly in the air.

If you place them on opposite sides and opposite corners, aren’t you:

1. Making it less likely that each tire receives similar power, and therefore experiencing wheel spin more frequently

2. Gambling on the fact that you might encounter a situation where you flex out the vehicle and both of your “naked” tires are hanging in the air/loose snow? Now you have to get traction boards or build up a surface to get a “naked” tire to grip? Or swap chains to that tire? If I only chain up my front or rear axle and get stuck, I must build up snow/dirt or get a chained up tire to catch on a traction board. That seems preferable to me.

Can't give you anything scientific other than I work for a utility company, we use chains a lot, and thats what we were instructed to do, and it works great to keep your truck running straight, especially on any kind of a road with a slope.
 
I've used a few types. I prefer Lacelde Alpine Super Sports chains with the diamond pattern. They don't feel like you are on a washboard road and they are easy to put on. I have two sets for all four wheels. If you can find a Les Schwab, you can buy the Laclede chains and return them if you don't use them. Call ahead to make sure they have what you want when you go to pick them up.
 
Why do you have open diffs?
Only vehicle I ever had with a locking differential ( other than a semi) was an old 2 wd International.
Man, that thing could get me stuck in places a 4wd couldn't hardly get to.

Long handled tire chain tool makes it easy to build/fix your own sets.

I've modified chain sets before but haven't heard of this tool.
I'll look into this, but I'd really like to have the cam tightening system.
 
have used chains all the way around without issues but I’m going 6-8 mph when I’m chained up.

That's the only thing I dont like about the v bar chains. The traction is amazing but over 10mph its like driving a truck with square tires unless there is A LOT of snow. Driving it on gravel, woof. Awful.

Idk if I've ever gotten back from somewhere with them that regular chains wouldn't have to be honest. I think they're really more well suited to log trucks than a pickup.

But damn do they ever look cool and inspire tremendous confidence for a stupid southeastern flatlander who has no business driving in snow or mountains, much less both at the same time.
 
Nice when you are shortening up a set of chains as you can move the cross bars around to where you want them.

Or when you break one, or straighten out a link... They sell enough links an whatnot for tire chains that a guy could get pretty creative if he wanted to.
 
Locked axles and ice with a tiny bit of slope is how you lose your rig. Open diffs keep one tire planted. Opposing corners will keep you from sliding off a slope, but will not provide the best power distribution. 4 chains is the ticket.

Some guys chain the front, some the back....but really, having a brain and not screwing around on off cambers is the win. If it's an off camber turn, pack your speed and stay high.....if you slide, dont do anything quick.....just be smooth. Smooth is key.
 
I run v-bar chains if things are going to be icy and heavy lug chains the rest of the time. 3/4 ton dodge diesel here as well. Stay away from the smaller light duty chains, they won't hold up
What year is your truck and what tire size?
 
I bought these self adjusting AutoTrac / Peerless chains for a snow wheeling trip a few winters ago. I ran them on all 4 tires. They worked as advertised and everyone else was impressed by how easy they were to set up. I followed some much better equipped rigs and was able to hold my own.

My understanding, though, is that the self-tightening equipment on the sides of the chain is a potential point of failure - don’t smash that on a rock.

Beyond that, the bag is nice and sometimes I put these in the bag and then in my pack for rucking.
What truck did you run them on?
 
I use a set of 4 v-bar chains, with cam-locks and snubbers to take up any slack. Most of the time I only use 2 (on the front) and occasionally chain all 4 if the roads are really bad. Always pack a shovel when traveling mountain roads in the fall/winter.
 
Here's something to consider.
The only two times I've almost run off a slippery snowy mountain road was when
I tried going uphill in 4WD without chaining and didn't make it.
Figured it was worth a try. Going to back down and chain up and the F***ing
ABS kicks in and bop-bop-bop-bop-bop-bop and I'm gaining speed right quick.
Luckily it was a straight shot to the level.

Now when it's at all sketchy I pull the fuse to the ABS. Works like it should, the
light just comes on. If I could figure out how to shut off the light I'd leave the
fuse out all the time.
Would love 5 minutes with the guy who made ABS mandatory. :mad:
 
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