Even with 4x4 you will still need front chains if it is bad, for example a friend's hunting cabin is at the end of a multi-mile private unmaintained road, with multiple switchbacks and off-camber turns. You will not make it without chains on all 4s if it is snowy and slick.
To check clearance for chains on newer rigs, mount them up front with the wheels straight ahead. Use double spider tensioners on the chains to pull all the excess slack to the outside (you should always carry 2x the tensioners needed, they break). Look inside the wheel well to make sure you don't have a conflict with the chain hitting the upper ball joint or getting close to the ABS or brake line. You can ziptie those to the upper control arm if needed to get them out of the way, don't kink them though.
Now SLOWLY pull forward and start to turn left or right, listening and checking for clearance. As you turn, conflicts may include your front sway bar, the bottom of the front bumper, and the bottom of the front wheel well by the door. If you are clear here, find a curb or similar and pull a tire up on it to 'flex' the suspension; check clearances here both straight and turned. If it's too tight to fit your rear chains (on the front), step down to a smaller chain or to a cable setup.
I am fitting V-Bars on a 2016 3/4 ton diesel without a hiccup, they are on/off dozens of times thru a winter. I do not run them on paved roads, and I do not run them above 10-12 mph, so IF something were to come loose I'm not dealing with 40 lbs of chain swinging around the wheel well thrashing everything at speed.
To check clearance for chains on newer rigs, mount them up front with the wheels straight ahead. Use double spider tensioners on the chains to pull all the excess slack to the outside (you should always carry 2x the tensioners needed, they break). Look inside the wheel well to make sure you don't have a conflict with the chain hitting the upper ball joint or getting close to the ABS or brake line. You can ziptie those to the upper control arm if needed to get them out of the way, don't kink them though.
Now SLOWLY pull forward and start to turn left or right, listening and checking for clearance. As you turn, conflicts may include your front sway bar, the bottom of the front bumper, and the bottom of the front wheel well by the door. If you are clear here, find a curb or similar and pull a tire up on it to 'flex' the suspension; check clearances here both straight and turned. If it's too tight to fit your rear chains (on the front), step down to a smaller chain or to a cable setup.
I am fitting V-Bars on a 2016 3/4 ton diesel without a hiccup, they are on/off dozens of times thru a winter. I do not run them on paved roads, and I do not run them above 10-12 mph, so IF something were to come loose I'm not dealing with 40 lbs of chain swinging around the wheel well thrashing everything at speed.