Modifying Tikka stock to a youth RokStok style.

[Marbles]

Taking inspiration from @Kenny Hart and @ResearchinStuff I decided to modify a Spare Tikka stock I have on hand to make a youth stock for my daughter.

My plan is to use syntactic foam (micro-balloons and epoxy) to build up structure that I can shape and then overlay with carbon fiber. I started by cutting the but to size, trimming the toe, and trying to minimize weight as the factory stock material is heavy compared to synthetic foam.

I used a peice of arrow shaft to set what will be the flat bottom.

I removed a significant amount from the neck of the right side as this will be w right handed only stock.

The back of the bottom metal inlet was going to be an issue as it is formed by the grip.



So I decided to cut the end off the removable grip and glue it in.



I also removed material from the forend as it will all need to be built up anyway.



I will be using West System epoxy, I have the resin, but need some 206 hardener. So, until that arrives I am stuck.



The two threads that inspired me.

$100k to Convert Tikka Stock to Rokstok While I (Im)patiently Wait

Lucky enough to have both access to expensive equipment AND my boss lets me use it for personal projects. End result is looking pretty good: Modeled up the original Rokstock design for reference and grip angle (though I obviously don't have the real contour/palm swell: 3D Scanned the...

rokslide.com

How I Modify My Tikka Factory Stocks

This is the start to finish process I use on my tikka factory stocks to help them have a consistent POI and improve shootability. None of this is completely new information, but there are a few unique things I do, and this is a consolidation post. This is stuff that I'm capable of doing to my...

rokslide.com

 

[bigbuckdj]

In for this. I’ve done a little fiberglass on boats with west systems products and I always thought it wouldn’t be too difficult to do what you are doing. Can’t wait to see your updates.

 

[Mojave]

You should just build this in plastic and bondo then mold a new one out of carbon fiber.

There are hundreds of tutorials on YouTube on how to do just that.

Some are rifle stocks, but most are just random items.

 

[TheM1DoesMyTalking]

Off to a good start! I have a couple of stocks I want to do this to. It seems like a good way to get familiar with some of these materials before trying a full carbon fiber build from scratch. Also it avoids inletting which is the part that seems the most complicated.

 

[Mtnmilsurp]

Love it!!! This is going to be great. Thanks for sharing with us.

 

[Marbles]

You should just build this in plastic and bondo then mold a new one out of carbon fiber.

There are hundreds of tutorials on YouTube on how to do just that.

Some are rifle stocks, but most are just random items.

This way I don't have to worry about the inlet, which I find quite intimidating.

I also get added structural stiffness from the factory stock forming the backbone, and reduce risk of breaking or cracking. Even with cutting off the bottom there is very little flex in the forend. I'm thinking one layer of carbon fiber over the syntactic foam will be all I need, so hoping to save weight. I may sand away more of the factory stock too.

Also it avoids inletting which is the part that seems the most complicated.

This!

 

[bojangles808]

nice, cant wait to see how it turns out

 

[Marbles]

The 206 hardener came in today.

I used some styrofoam to fill in some space both to save weight and cut down on the amount of syntactic foam needed.
On a side note, if working with micro-balloons, use a P100 respirator. They are tiny glass spheres that float through the air very well and as glass doesn't break down, once in your lungs they tend to stay and can cause silicosis.



The cling wrap lets you push it around, otherwise it sticks to your gloves and you don't achieve much. It is mixed to a touch thicker than peanut butter, but still flows until it starts to set, so I had to keep pushing it back into shape for 30 or so minutes. This time could be cut down with the fast hardener, but I preffered the extra work time.

I slapped the leftover on the forend, it will need more, but it is easier to build it up in layers than all at once like I just did as doing so leads to the sagging that must be tended.

I will be sanding it to shape, then possible adding a touch more if needed, then sanding again.