MILs Quick Calculation Does Not Line Up?

[Formidilosus]

I’m new to MRAD, but it seems like the value of this could legitimately justify building a slower rifle? My 6.5 creedmoor works beautifully with this system from 200-600, which seems like it will be a HUGE advantage in hunting shots.

Yes there are people, some very good shooters that I know, that purposefully choose cartridge/bullet combos so that they line up exactly with an “average” gun.

 

[Bluumoon]

Yes there are people, some very good shooters that I know, that purposefully choose cartridge/bullet combos so that they line up exactly with an “average” gun.

A factory Tikka T3x lite 6.5cm and factory 143s lines up perfect.

Chopping the barrel screws it up. Pretty much the only reason I would consider a chopped 6.5prc.

A smarter guy than me would figure out a new bullet and powder load to make it work.

 

[BBob]

I'm not seeing the issue for under 500. If I shot that rifle for even a little bit I think I'd be able to remember to fudge a hair on one or two yardages under 500.

 

[pbroski]

2860 fps and .623 BC. (Shooting the ELDX now.)

I can make an adjustment work nicely for 500-900 yards, but most hunting happens inside 500.

I’m new to MRAD, but it seems like the value of this could legitimately justify building a slower rifle? My 6.5 creedmoor works beautifully with this system from 200-600, which seems like it will be a HUGE advantage in hunting shots.

For the PRC, if it were me I would sight in for 100 yards which is equal to 91 meters. Then I would set my rangefinder to measure in meters instead of yards and use the quick drop method like normal. For example 400 meters up 2 mils, 600m up 4 mils, 650m up 4.5 mils. This is calculated for 1000 feet elevation which is where I think you are. I'd be a target hitting superstar out to 700 meters.

 

[Bluumoon]

I'm not seeing the issue for under 500. If I shot that rifle for even a little bit I think I'd be able to remember to fudge a hair on one or two yardages under 500.

Last year on a cow elk hunt the herd was moving through trees in the valley below. My partner was calling the ranges to me, the base of 2 allowed for near zero thought to dial correctly repeatedly until I got a shot.

A base of 1.7 or 2.2 doesn’t sound that hard, nor does memorizing/having a little chart on scope cap. Try that w movers. A base of 2 is near instant.

 

[pbroski]

For simplicity, I much prefer not to have to use any correction factor. I would rather tweak the sight-in distance and or use meters to make the rifle fit. A sight-in distance other than 100 yards is just fine with me. To each there own.

 

[TaperPin]

That’s, um, so very . . . simple? Simpleish. . . ish?

 

[fwafwow]

It silly for them to be shown to the hundredth, you cant adjust that out. .38 is .4, .99 is 1, etc.

So you know if it is possible to change the settings so the results are rounded to tenths? I couldn’t figure it out. Shooter appears to have tenths as the default, which makes more sense to me.

 

[TaperPin]

For out to 600 I kind of like to draw on the turret knob and just write the yardage. Nothing to remember.

I will admit that past 600 more detail is needed.

I zero at 300 so remembering the moa out to 600 is also easy peasy:

2.5 moa @ 400,
5 moa @ 500,
8 moa @ 600.

 

[fwafwow]

For out to 600 I kind of like to draw on the turret knob and just write the yardage. Nothing to remember.

I will admit that past 600 more detail is needed.

I zero at 300 so remembering the moa out to 600 is also easy peasy:

2.5 moa @ 400,
5 moa @ 500,
8 moa @ 600.

View attachment 735922

What about pancakes?!

 

[Macintosh]

So you know if it is possible to change the settings so the results are rounded to tenths? I couldn’t figure it out. Shooter appears to have tenths as the default, which makes more sense to me.

Sorry, no idea, never used that app. I use AB, it just rounds to the nearest .1 mil too. Yep, tenths make sense when the adjustments are in 10ths. Hundredths would make perfect sense on a scope with 100 clicks to the mil. Never seen one of those either.

 

[TaperPin]

What about pancakes?!

I’m working on a dot-to-dot alligator

 

[9.3koolaid]

I’m working on a dot-to-dot alligator

View attachment 735947

Is this the new SWFA reticle???

 

[Boltgun]

Got it!

I was struggling because the PRC’s shoot so flat that you need a variable adjuster. My creedmoor can just add 0.6 MILs to the base number and it works from 200-600, but the PRC’s need an adjuster that starts small and increases with distance. But obviously has to be easy to remember and do the math.

So you take the base formula (distance in yards, add the decimal point, subtract two) (example 524 yards becomes 3.2 mils)
Then you subtract whatever the first number of the yardage distance is. So for the 500 yardages, subtract 0.5 mils. For 400 yardages, subtract 0.4 mils.

So for our 524 example, from the base of 3.2 you subtract 0.5, giving 2.7 MILs. Actual adjustment is 2.71 MILs.

Works beautifully from 325-700!

 

[bowrunner81]

I think I see now how this works with my rifle. I am shooting a 20” 7prc and I have guessed my velocity at about 2750 based on a little range time, but at some point I will borrow my buddies chrono and check it.

Previously I have used a 200 yard zero. I do see where a 100 yard zero helps with the quick drop. I am just noticing a trend but please correct me if this is not the right way to do this.

Here is my Hornady app data:



400 yard shot: 4.0/2 = 2.0 mils; close
500 yard shot: 5.0/2 = 2.5 miles; close
Starting at 600 yards: 6.0 - 3.0 + .6 = 3.6; right on
700 yards: 7.0 - 3.0 + .7 = 4.7; close
900 yards: 9.0 - 3.0 + .9 = 6.9; close

 

[pbroski]

For the PRC, if it were me I would sight in for 100 yards which is equal to 91 meters. Then I would set my rangefinder to measure in meters instead of yards and use the quick drop method like normal. For example 400 meters up 2 mils, 600m up 4 mils, 650m up 4.5 mils. This is calculated for 1000 feet elevation which is where I think you are. I'd be a target hitting superstar out to 700 meters.