MILs Quick Calculation Does Not Line Up?

Boltgun

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I’m confused. I’m planning to make the jump to MILs for the ability to faster calculate elevation adjustments. But I can’t seem to make it line up close enough to be usable?

I’m attempting to utilize the formula that I’ve read on here:
Distance in meters, hundreds column minus 2 makes up the MILs, tens column makes up the first decimal place of MILs. Should be accurate within 0.1 MILs at normal hunting distances (200-600).

Example:
550 meters: 3.5 MILs
378 meters: 1.78 MILs (rounded to 1.8)

But it doesn’t come out that way in the 4DOF app. I’m shooting an 18” tikka in 6.5CM, with average muzzle velocity of 2480 (chronoed and trued) and ELDX with a BC of .625.

4DOF says:
550 meters: 4.88 MILs
378 meters: 2.66 MILs

Definitely too far off for the “quick data” to be useful.

Question 1: Am I calculating wrong?

Question 2: If I am not calculating incorrectly, is there any other benefit to switching to MILs besides this one, and the ability to calculate the MPH of my rifle and use it to help with learning wind?

Thanks!
 

msstate56

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Go shoot the gun and get actual data. Then reverse engineer the 4DOF to line up with real data. Check all the inputs, including sight height.
 
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Iiirc the quick drop stuff works best if you are betwern 2600-2800 fps. It can get weird if youre outside those parameters.
 
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Formidilosus

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I’m confused. I’m planning to make the jump to MILs for the ability to faster calculate elevation adjustments. But I can’t seem to make it line up close enough to be usable?

I’m attempting to utilize the formula that I’ve read on here:
Distance in meters, hundreds column minus 2 makes up the MILs, tens column makes up the first decimal place of MILs. Should be accurate within 0.1 MILs at normal hunting distances (200-600).

Example:
550 meters: 3.5 MILs
378 meters: 1.78 MILs (rounded to 1.8)

But it doesn’t come out that way in the 4DOF app. I’m shooting an 18” tikka in 6.5CM, with average muzzle velocity of 2480 (chronoed and trued) and ELDX with a BC of .625.

4DOF says:
550 meters: 4.88 MILs
378 meters: 2.66 MILs

Definitely too far off for the “quick data” to be useful.

Question 1: Am I calculating wrong?

Yes you are calculating it incorrectly- it is yards, not meters. Meters will require a correction to make it work.


Question 2: If I am not calculating incorrectly, is there any other benefit to switching to MILs besides this one, and the ability to calculate the MPH of my rifle and use it to help with learning wind?

Thanks!

You will be able to use both quick drop and wind brackets with meters, and all the other advantages of mils.


Take a screen shot of your drop table with a 100 meter zero.
 
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Read post 74 and 79 for more detailed explanations from Form on wind brackets and elevation
 

pbroski

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Sometimes you can tweak it by using a different sight-in distance. For your load, try using yards instead of meters, with a sight-in distance of 200 yards. That should get it to match up better.
 
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Boltgun

Lil-Rokslider
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Messages
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Thanks for all the quick responses.

Adjusted meters to yards, closer but not on yet.
550 yards: 4.23 MRAD
378 yards: 2.28 MRAD

IMG_9518.png
 
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Boltgun

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As an aside, I did figure out that 6MPH full value wind gives the easy calculation for distance. Thats pretty wild to see all the numbers line up on the chart!
 
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Boltgun

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Adjusting to a 200yd zero puts me less than 0.2 MRAD off, out to 600. I’d prefer to use a 100 yd zero, but going with 200 isn’t a big deal.

Form, your +0.6 adjustment brings it within 0.1 out to 550, but requires more mental math under pressure. It’s easy math, but still tough in the moment.

Is one method better than the other?
 

Formidilosus

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Adjusting to a 200yd zero puts me less than 0.2 MRAD off, out to 600. I’d prefer to use a 100 yd zero, but going with 200 isn’t a big deal.

Form, your +0.6 adjustment brings it within 0.1 out to 550, but requires more mental math under pressure. It’s easy math, but still tough in the moment.

Is one method better than the other?


Yes, use a 100 yard zero. Using correction is easy, and lots of combinations will require a correction.
 
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Boltgun

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Thanks. This stuff is gold. Now every ten yards will correlate to 0.1 MILs, which makes staying on moving animals way easier.

A couple weeks ago I was dialed on some animals in the 450-510 yard range, and every time they moved, I had to go back to the dope sheet to recalculate in MOA. It all worked out, but that sold me on switching to this method!
 
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Boltgun

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After a day of practicing random yardages, I can come up with my dial out to 600 using the +0.6 adjustment in just a couple seconds.

I tried to come up with an adjustment to make it work with my buddy’s 6.5 PRC.

IMG_4302.jpeg


An adjustment of +0.6 MRAD fits nicely for 500-900 yds, but most hunting is inside 500. Am I missing a way to make this work?
 
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Boltgun

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Bumping the thread.

I can’t seem to make this method line up with 6.5 PRC. Am I missing something?
 

BBob

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Which ELD-M? 130? 140? 147? Muzzle velocity?

Mby quit with the 4DOF solver? Seems many people have issues with it.

Shooter works with a correction at 500 and beyond??? 147 ELD-M @ 2800
IMG_3779.png
 
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Boltgun

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Which ELD-M? 130? 140? 147? Muzzle velocity?

Mby quit with the 4DOF solver? Seems many people have issues with it.

Shooter works with a correction at 500 and beyond??? 147 ELD-M @ 2800
View attachment 735186
2860 fps and .623 BC. (Shooting the ELDX now.)

I can make an adjustment work nicely for 500-900 yards, but most hunting happens inside 500.

I’m new to MRAD, but it seems like the value of this could legitimately justify building a slower rifle? My 6.5 creedmoor works beautifully with this system from 200-600, which seems like it will be a HUGE advantage in hunting shots.
 

Macintosh

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After a day of practicing random yardages, I can come up with my dial out to 600 using the +0.6 adjustment in just a couple seconds.

I tried to come up with an adjustment to make it work with my buddy’s 6.5 PRC.

View attachment 733982


An adjustment of +0.6 MRAD fits nicely for 500-900 yds, but most hunting is inside 500. Am I missing a way to make this work?
If you have 500+ figured out, I dont see much gap. Your 200 yard impact is within less than an inch of the quick drop prediction, 300 is dead-nuts on. Looks like you could use one smaller correction factor of .2 or .3 for any remaining gap and be super close. Are the .1 mils shown to the hundredth messing you up? It silly for them to be shown to the hundredth, you cant adjust that out. .38 is .4, .99 is 1, etc.
Personally, not being really cozy shooting at animals too far past 400-500 yards under good conditions, Id much rather remember one correction from 350-wherever its valid for, and just say I need to refer to a dope card past that range…as you said, that would cover a lot higher % of shots, at least for me. In your dope chart if you used the standard quick drop to 325, then applied a .3 correction, you’d be very close out to about 475 yards.
 
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Boltgun

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Thanks for all the responses.

Bbob, I agree it works well from 500-900. But it's the adjustment inside 500 that I'm hoping to use this for (mostly). Also I agree on 4DOF. Sometimes it seems to spit out squirrely answers.

Macintosh, I have 500+ figured out on my rifle, but I can't seem to get an across-the-board adjustment for 6.5 PRC figured out. I think your solution might just be as good as it gets: use the standard numbers out to 325, then an adjustment out to 475, and a dope sheet anywhere beyond that.

I guess I was just so impressed by how well this fit for my 6.5 Creedmoor that I hoped to make it fit PRC as well. We'll see how it plays out after some training and practice, but I feel like the benefit of this speed solution might make me almost prefer a ballistically inferior round. My 6.5 PRC might be much better at distance, but seems like the 6.5 Creedmoor would be much better at practical distances (0-600) just because this method fits it so well?
 
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