Mathews v3x 33 tuning issues

[Foster_65]

I recently put new abb strings ont my v3x 33 and I cannot get it to tune. Seems no matter how much I move my rest up I’m getting a nock high tear. After strings were installed I set ata and brace height to spec. Synchronized the cams so the stops are hitting the cables at tge same time. Set my nocking point mid way of ata which puts it right through Berger hole when leveled. I’m shooting 250 black eagle renegades with 175 up front. Ran out of room to adjust my rest. I’m hesitant to lower my nocking point as it would put me about a 1/2 in nock low which just doesn’t seem correct. Using a Hamskea epsilon rest tied to cable yoke. Don’t believe I’m hitting the rest. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get this thing to shoot?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I would first make certain there's no vane contact. Either put a tattletale substance on the vanes and check for marks on the rest or shoot a bareshaft and see how its tear compares to a fletched shaft. Also make sure both limb bolts are tightened the same amount.

 

[Billy Goat]

Those bows tend to tune nock low, 1/2" is pretty extreme tho. I think all mine with loop centered between axles put shaft center thru the top edge of the Berger hole.

Do your timing windows look correct at rest?

How much cord tension do you have on the Epsilon? I wouldn't rule out contact with it, check for that as MM had said.

 

[Kyle Wheeler]

Just a thought here what is your arrow weight? Maybe adjust the tension of the Epsilon to try? I just got an epsilon and am about to start tuning it. The launcher blade seems to have a lot of tension but I’m not sure if that is your issue.

 

[golfbum]

I would start with moving your rest cable to about an 1.5”-2” away from the axle on the bottom limb.

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

Agreed on vane contact being the first thing to rule out. The epsilon comes stock with more up tension on the whale tail than the trinity or HHP. I would not adjust it to have less tension though. But because of that, the epsilon needs more tension on your rest cord than the HHP to keep it down. As it requires more tension, Im not sure I would run it to the yoke splitter, Id go to the limb. If youre determined to run it to the splitter, and you are still getting a tear, might be worth it to at least try it to the limb.

Also if you havent already, Id change out the rest cord from that flimsy stuff Hamskea provides with some bcy 24 or similar. That said, the bcy 24 need to be pulled pretty damn hard to seat in the rebound dampener grooves properly because it is a larger diameter, but once it seats, its not moving.

 

[Foster_65]

I would first make certain there's no vane contact. Either put a tattletale substance on the vanes and check for marks on the rest or shoot a bareshaft and see how its tear compares to a fletched shaft. Also make sure both limb bolts are tightened the same amount.

I tried a bare shaft and still get nock high tears but not as bad. I can get closer. Limb bolts are as tight as I can get them.

 

[Foster_65]

Those bows tend to tune nock low, 1/2" is pretty extreme tho. I think all mine with loop centered between axles put shaft center thru the top edge of the Berger hole.

Do your timing windows look correct at rest?

How much cord tension do you have on the Epsilon? I wouldn't rule out contact with it, check for that as MM had said.

Timing windows are very close. As close as I can get them. If I take a half twist in or out I think I will be much further off

 

[Foster_65]

I would start with moving your rest cable to about an 1.5”-2” away from the axle on the bottom limb.

I moved my rest cable to the limb and it did seem to help slightly however I’m still gonna end up 1/2 in nock low nocking point which may induce vane contact.

 

[Billy Goat]

Timing windows are very close. As close as I can get them. If I take a half twist in or out I think I will be much further off

How is nock fit?
How much space between the string and the string stop?

 

[LCsmith]

How is nock fit?
How much space between the string and the string stop?

Nock pinch is a common overlooked issue.

 

[golfbum]

Make sure blade tension is correct on rest. Have bottom of the arrow running 90* off aim string with the bottom of the arrow through upper 1/3 or Berger hole. Make sure stops are hitting at the same time if not the top a credit card width ahead of bottom. Tie rest cord 2” from axle on bottom of limb. I would bet your tear will be damn near perfect (up/down) if it’s not I would pay close attention to your grip and not getting to much heel pressure on the bottom of the grip. I actually love the engage grip but a lot of people like the bee real grip which forces you to higher wrist angle.

 

[Foster_65]

How is nock fit?
How much space between the string and the string stop?

When nock is on the string it can move pretty freely. It isn’t tight. I would say maybe a 1/16 of an inch play between my upper d loop knot and my lower nocking point I tied with d3 serving. Then of course my lower d loop knot below that. I have about a credit card width gap between my string and string stop

 

[Foster_65]

Make sure blade tension is correct on rest. Have bottom of the arrow running 90* off aim string with the bottom of the arrow through upper 1/3 or Berger hole. Make sure stops are hitting at the same time if not the top a credit card width ahead of bottom. Tie rest cord 2” from axle on bottom of limb. I would bet your tear will be damn near perfect (up/down) if it’s not I would pay close attention to your grip and not getting to much heel pressure on the bottom of the grip. I actually love the engage grip but a lot of people like the bee real grip which forces you to higher wrist angle.

The blade comes up no problem so I don’t really think that’s the problem. My arrow weight is 550 total with 175 up front at about 77 lbs.

So your saying move my nocking point up and not be concerned with where that is in relation to my ata?

 

[Billy Goat]

When nock is on the string it can move pretty freely. It isn’t tight. I would say maybe a 1/16 of an inch play between my upper d loop knot and my lower nocking point I tied with d3 serving. Then of course my lower d loop knot below that. I have about a credit card width gap between my string and string stop

Seems like bases are covered. Contact is most likely.

Going back and rereading your OP, how much adjusting did you do to set ATA and Brace height?

 

[Billy Goat]

So your saying move my nocking point up and not be concerned with where that is in relation to my ata?

On that bow you want your loop to be centered between the axles. I wouldn't change your nocking point. I do set the loop centered, not the nock. I'll have soft nocks within the loop that offset the nock to the top of the loop a little.


If loop is centered and cams are timed correctly, seems you are getting contact. Likely in the timing of the rest.

 

[golfbum]

I personally wouldn’t be concerned with nock point being directly centered from axle to axle (axle to axle is a ball park figure anyway that is concerned in spec plus or minus 1/4” or so.

If the bottom of the arrow is running slightly high through the Berger hole and the arrow is 90* off the string and cams are hitting even or top slightly ahead I would be shocked if you didn’t get a good tear.

 

[Foster_65]

On that bow you want your loop to be centered between the axles. I wouldn't change your nocking point. I do set the loop centered, not the nock. I'll have soft nocks within the loop that offset the nock to the top of the loop a little.


If loop is centered and cams are timed correctly, seems you are getting contact. Likely in the timing of the rest.

Alright. So how do I time the rest. On the draw board it seems like the rest stays up the majority of the way through the draw cycle. Starts to go down maybe 6-8 inches before arrow leaves the string.

I did have some vane contact on rest but that was when I was waay nock low. However it seems like bare shaft shouldn’t have that problem.

 

[Billy Goat]

Alright. So how do I time the rest. On the draw board it seems like the rest stays up the majority of the way through the draw cycle. Starts to go down maybe 6-8 inches before arrow leaves the string.

I did have some vane contact on rest but that was when I was waay nock low. However it seems like bare shaft shouldn’t have that problem.

Mark where the rest is on the arrow at rest. Go to full draw and mark where the rest is. Let the bow down in the draw board and mark on the arrow where the rest starts to drop. You want the rest fully up only in the last 20% or so.

 

[Billy Goat]

I personally wouldn’t be concerned with nock point being directly centered from axle to axle (axle to axle is a ball park figure anyway that is concerned in spec plus or minus 1/4” or so.

If the bottom of the arrow is running slightly high through the Berger hole and the arrow is 90* off the string and cams are hitting even or top slightly ahead I would be shocked if you didn’t get a good tear.

While it might not be absolutely critical, the SW cams and the centered guard are working to give you dead level nock travel. Might as well take advantage of it. It helps a lot with tuning of larger fixed blade broadheads. If you aren't pulling from dead between the axles, the cams will fight each other.