Mathews v3x 33 tuning issues

[Lowg08]

I can’t resist. I am glad you did get it figured out. I’m sure it was frustrating but I was going to give you one last option. The problem was circled right above the arrow shelf. I find the Mathew’s to be the least user friendly bows on the market in comparison to other brands

 

[sandhillhunter]

Not sure if this was posted yet, but here is a good guideline from Hamskea on timing their rests.

Timing of a Limb Driven Rest

Timing of a Limb Driven Rest

As the popularity of limb driven rests continues to increase, Hamskea would like to make sure dealers and customers are able to get the best performance out of their limb driven arrow rest. One of the key components of this is identifying the correct location to attach the actuation cord on...

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[CMS829]

I can’t resist. I am glad you did get it figured out. I’m sure it was frustrating but I was going to give you one last option. The problem was circled right above the arrow shelf. I find the Mathew’s to be the least user friendly bows on the market in comparison to other brands View attachment 522653

Have you tuned many Bears? LOL. Mathews are a treat!

 

[Lowg08]

Have you tuned many Bears? LOL. Mathews are a treat!

I have not. From what I’ve heard they are frustrating

 

[Billy Goat]

Have you tuned many Bears? LOL. Mathews are a treat!

I really liked the Bear Kuma, that was an excellent bow.

Tuning was easy, it had yokes.

 

[CMS829]

I really liked the Bear Kuma, that was an excellent bow.

Tuning was easy, it had yokes.

Yea, I had a Whitetail legend pro. The axle/shim system is terrible

 

[JFo22]

Agreed on vane contact being the first thing to rule out. The epsilon comes stock with more up tension on the whale tail than the trinity or HHP. I would not adjust it to have less tension though. But because of that, the epsilon needs more tension on your rest cord than the HHP to keep it down. As it requires more tension, Im not sure I would run it to the yoke splitter, Id go to the limb. If youre determined to run it to the splitter, and you are still getting a tear, might be worth it to at least try it to the limb.

Also if you havent already, Id change out the rest cord from that flimsy stuff Hamskea provides with some bcy 24 or similar. That said, the bcy 24 need to be pulled pretty damn hard to seat in the rebound dampener grooves properly because it is a larger diameter, but once it seats, its not moving.

I know this is an older post. But I did the same and changed to BCY 24. I'm using a prusik style knot to hold the launcher down. I'm constantly having to pull it down. I'm fairly confident that I tied it right according to the youtubes. Would I be better to go with a softer d loop material? If so, what material would you recommend? If you don't recommend using a prusik style knot to hold the launcher down, how would you recommend? Thanks!

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

The only thing I’ve ever had fail was a spring on the Hamskea HHP and I have 3 bows with Hamskea rests. The rebound dampeners have been flawless. I’ve since changed the HHP to the rebound dampener and got rid of the spring on those as well. Hamskea sells a rebound dampener conversion kit for the HHP and trinity to ditch the spring.

I also have used the football clamp with Bcy 24 on all of them without issue. I’ve never used anything other than the football clamp, so I can’t comment on Prussik or the slide bar deal they tried for a while.. It’s never failed, so I stuck with it. I do burn a ball on the tag end of the Bcy 24 rest cord and I tied the tag end on to the side of the cord (onto itself) thats under tension with some Bcy 3d and a couple overhand knots - which on its own will hold the tension even without the clamp. I would not trust that as a stand alone method, I just do it for insurance.

I guess you could try 23, but I’ve never even had to retighten or adjust 24 once it’s set.

 

[JFo22]

The only thing I’ve ever had fail was a spring on the Hamskea HHP and I have 3 bows with Hamskea rests. The rebound dampeners have been flawless. I’ve since changed the HHP to the rebound dampener and got rid of the spring on those as well. Hamskea sells a rebound dampener conversion kit for the HHP and trinity to ditch the spring.

I also have used the football clamp with Bcy 24 on all of them without issue. I’ve never used anything other than the football clamp, so I can’t comment on Prussik or the slide bar deal they tried for a while.. It’s never failed, so I stuck with it. I do burn a ball on the tag end of the Bcy 24 rest cord and I tied the tag end on to the side of the cord (onto itself) thats under tension with some Bcy 3d and a couple overhand knots - which on its own will hold the tension even without the clamp. I would not trust that as a stand alone method, I just do it for insurance.

I guess you could try 23, but I’ve never even had to retighten or adjust 24 once it’s set.

Good deal. I have the rebound dampener on my Trinity. I agree that it is definitely better than the spring. I'll have to try the football clamp. Thanks for the help.