Mathews v3x 33 tuning issues

[golfbum]

If the bottom of the arrow is running slightly high through the Berger hole and is level the nock point will be almost dead center. The arrow will cross the center of the cable guard.

Billy goat is dead on with the timing of any hamskea rest. 1.5-2” from axle will land in about the perfect spot

 

[Foster_65]

Mark where the rest is on the arrow at rest. Go to full draw and mark where the rest is. Let the bow down in the draw board and mark on the arrow where the rest starts to drop. You want the rest fully up only in the last 20% or so.

How do I adjust it so that it isn’t in the fully up position for so long? Sorry prolly dumb question but I am not understanding how that can be adjusted

 

[Billy Goat]

How do I adjust it so that it isn’t in the fully up position for so long? Sorry prolly dumb question but I am not understanding how that can be adjusted

Tie the cord tighter, alter placement.

The dampner acts as a spring, but takes a while to settle out.

 

[Foster_65]

I really appreciate all the help on this guys but I just can’t figure this thing out. I’ve done everything. The only thing I haven’t tried yet is golfbums suggestion to move nock point up. However if I do that my rest will be maxed out in height adjustment due to it hitting the angled cable guard. I’m really at a loss. My bare shafts and fletched shafts have pretty much the same tear. Left and right is good just always about an inch nock high. Doesn’t seem to matter what I do. I’m grasping at straws but does anyone have any other suggestions. I did take out a half twist on my top cable so that my top cam hits just ever slightly before my bottom and no change.

 

[golfbum]

Don’t move the entire rest up just the blade. There will be two screws under the rest body that control how far the blade is allowed to come up. Have it setup so the arrow is running in the top 1/3 of the Berger hole. Make sure arrow is level in that position.

 

[golfbum]

Lastly I would look at spring tension on the blade. Your tear indicates to stiff of tension so you could try to lighten it just a bit.

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

Take some pictures of the rest without the rest cord attached, with an arrow nocked, from as level as you can get with the camera. Measure the string from where it leaves the cam on the top, to where it leaves the cam on the bottom (where you see the string leave the cam groove, not the ata) - and then the measurement of the dead center of your d loop as you measure that. (On my V3X 29, its 25 3/4 from bottom to top cam where the string leaves the cam, and the center on my d loop is dead nuts in the middle at 12 7/8, VXR 28 is 24 3/8, nocking point dead even between that measurement). Maybe slightly nock high, but to me its a bit easier to see that exact measurement doing it that way as opposed to trying to measure it off the axles. Gotta be either nocking point, or contact.

Are you using a vice? Do you have a string level and an arrow level?

If you post pics, we can probably pick out if something is off. Ive seen pictures of people set ups and knew right off something wasnt right.

Where are you located? Heck someone might be in the general area that can give you a hand. Otherwise, you might need to head to your bow shop.

 

[Foster_65]

First pick is of the rest as high as I can get it with still year high. Nock way low. The rest are of the measurements requested. The ruler was wedged between the cam and string on the short side. So if measured on the other end in the same spot it would come out right on 29.

 

[Billy Goat]

If it's 29.5" where it comes off the cam to where it comes off the cam, your nock point is wrong.


I measure from center of the axle bolt to the closest point of the loop top and bottom. But if you are 29.5 from 2 equal parts, you need 14.75 for the center.

Edit- missed your 29" part.

Seems even, but check it with the rule from axle to loop top and bottom.

 

[Billy Goat]

It's stupid, but make sure you have matching mods. It should be way off if they were different, but it could be an 80 and 85% or something.

I suspect it's something stupid, might be you are too close to see it.

 

[Foster_65]

If it's 29.5" where it comes off the cam to where it comes off the cam, your nock point is wrong.


I measure from center of the axle bolt to the closest point of the loop top and bottom. But if you are 29.5 from 2 equal parts, you need 14.75 for the center.

Edit- missed your 29" part.

Seems even, but check it with the rule from axle to loop top and bottom.

Top cam axle to where it touches d loop = 16 1/2
Bottom cam axel to bottom of d loop 16 5/16
Mods are identical

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

Nothing jumps out there, if the measurements are right, then you are back to rest timing/contact. Agree with BG, back up and take a big picture look. Matching mods/letoff %.

The first pic, that arrow sure looks off, nock low, but could be the zoom doing it. Other than that, nothing stands out.

 

[Billy Goat]

Top cam axle to where it touches d loop = 16 1/2
Bottom cam axel to bottom of d loop 16 5/16
Mods are identical

I doubt that's causing the problem, but if it were me I'd get my loop centered. If you are within a 1/4" it should tune.

 

[golfbum]

In this picture, imo your arrow is too low. Raise it up to run the bottom of the arrow where the top is and redo your loop. See what happens? My guess is it will be awfully close

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

That cutout below the Mathews logo is square. Again, could be the camera or angle making it look off, but it doesnt look close.

Might just have to cut the d loop and soft nock off, and just start over. Or take a break from it and come back. Sometimes thats the best thing. Consider it all a learning process.

 

[Foster_65]

I doubt that's causing the problem, but if it were me I'd get my loop centered. If you are within a 1/4" it should tune.

The soft nock I have tied in the bottom is making the 3/16 difference. I didn’t tie one in the top or they would be dang near perfect.

The strange thing is that with the factory zebra strings and set to factory spec it tuned great. Easy peasy. Since putting on the ABBs is when I’m now noticing this issue. Initially scheels installed the strings and cables for me and tried to tune and ended up with the same nock really low nocking point. When tge did it it was way outta spec and timing wasn’t really correct so I figured once I get it all timed and specked it would tune no problem. But I’ve never dealt with this. I’m not really sure what more I can do with the rest. I have the cord super tight. My bare shaft and fletched are tearing the same so I don’t think I’m getting contact. I’m unable to weaken tge tension. If I take the two screws out and rotate them half a turn then there is no tension at all.

 

[golfbum]

One screw adds tension to the blade, one lessens it.

You don’t want your cord super tight just taught.

If you aren’t comfortable moving your dloop up and rest blade up to have bottom of the arrow running through the Berger hole and center of the cable guard (which is the center of the bow) I’m out of ideas. Good luck. I hope you figure it out!

 

[Billy Goat]

The soft nock I have tied in the bottom is making the 3/16 difference. I didn’t tie one in the top or they would be dang near perfect.

The strange thing is that with the factory zebra strings and set to factory spec it tuned great. Easy peasy. Since putting on the ABBs is when I’m now noticing this issue. Initially scheels installed the strings and cables for me and tried to tune and ended up with the same nock really low nocking point. When tge did it it was way outta spec and timing wasn’t really correct so I figured once I get it all timed and specked it would tune no problem. But I’ve never dealt with this. I’m not really sure what more I can do with the rest. I have the cord super tight. My bare shaft and fletched are tearing the same so I don’t think I’m getting contact. I’m unable to weaken tge tension. If I take the two screws out and rotate them half a turn then there is no tension at all.

This is how I setup d-loops on newer Mathews.





I generally tie soft nocks top and bottom unless it's a short ATA with longer DL. The loop is what is doing the pulling, so where the nock is isn't critical. Having the nock just a little high of centered in the loop helps to load the arrow downward just slightly without loading a cam and keeping the loop/nock traveling dead even through the powerstroke of the bow.

I don't use levels on them, just center the loop, center of shaft about top of Berger hole, then they are normally pretty dern close.


I didn't get along well with the Epsilon on my V3X33, but it tuned fine. I just didn't find it as forgiving as I was accustomed to with other rests. Weird thing is I put it on my V3 31 and it seems fine.



I'd start over, strange things happen and a tear isn't always what it supposed to be.


Something ain't making sense, I don't know what else to tell you. If cables or yokes weren't to the correct length, twisting stuff into time should have fixed them. Could be a really bad bearing I suppose, think you would have noticed by now.

 

[Billy Goat]

One screw adds tension to the blade, one lessens it.

Isn't that blade angle?

Been a bit since I messed with one. To change tension it's under the lever arm on the rod, where the wound spring is. I think you change the hole the spring is in.


But very likely I'm wrong.


I do think softening the tension could possibly help, but they aren't that light of an arrow to begin with.

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

Isn't that blade angle?

Been a bit since I messed with one. To change tension it's under the lever arm on the rod, where the wound spring is. I think you change the hole the spring is in.


But very likely I'm wrong.

This is correct. But the epsilon just seems to like the higher tension, I had this issue when they first came out and thought it was the tension being noticeably heavier than the HHP/Trinity so that was the first thing I tried and made issues worse. Ended up having to put more tension on rest cord and makes sure the rebound dampener had the d loop material seated fully and stretched out.

I actually preferred the spring and football clamp on the HHP and Trinity, but some people had issues with durability. I have a VXR 28 I got the month they were released, with a HHP and spring/football and an absurd amount of shots and hunts with it still going strong.