Longer bows

[Gagster7]

Would a longer ATA change what draw length you might need? Do to string angle?

I am currently shooting a 33 ATA and shoot a 28.5, and I am thinking about going to a 35 ATA, would I need a slightly longer DL?

 

[EchoLimaKilo]

No, the draw length would be the same, it’s just the angle of the string that’s going to change and the placement of the peep relative to the D loop/your face. I just switched from a 32” Mathews NoCam to a 35” centergy hybrid. Both 29.5” draw lengths. Some bow manufacturers seem to run short/long from what I understand so that might be worth asking about if you’re switching brands.

 

[Gagster7]

No, the draw length would be the same, it’s just the angle of the string that’s going to change and the placement of the peep relative to the D loop/your face. I just switched from a 32” Mathews NoCam to a 35” centergy hybrid. Both 29.5” draw lengths. Some bow manufacturers seem to run short/long from what I understand so that might be worth asking about if you’re switching brands.

Well they are both primes, I called them today and didn’t get anywhere. Which I was shocked. But they were on lunch

 

[dtrkyman]

Draw length will not change, as stated above bows tend to run long, forget the number you think you are and fit the bow to you.

Too much draw weight and too long of draw are the two biggest issues in archery, well besides user error


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[Gagster7]

Thanks

 

[EchoLimaKilo]

Well they are both primes, I called them today and didn’t get anywhere. Which I was shocked. But they were on lunch

Gotcha, at least with the centergy hybrid there’s a bit of play in draw length just by moving the cables stops one way or the other a bit. This will change let off slightly but between that adjustment and d loop sizing you should be able to fine tune your draw length to what you want. Also if you’re moving from prime to prime I wouldn’t worry about it, I’d get the same as before if it fit you well.

They were pretty helpful last I talked to them on the phone so I’m sure they’ll get you squared away when you can get ahold of them.

 

[Brendan]

Actually - I run a slightly shorter draw length with a longer ATA as compared to shorter. Reason being - Steeper string angle on a shorter ATA bow I need to run a little longer if I want the string at the tip of my nose.

But - my bows run from a 28" ATA Triax to a 35" ATA RX1 to a 40" ATA TRX7. Usually not noticeable on bows that are close.

 

[Billy Goat]

I just run a larger peep on a shorter ata bow, since the string is a little further from your eye. The difference your talking about wouldn't be noticeable unless it's a major difference in cams.

 

[MT257]

I just run a larger peep on a shorter ata bow, since the string is a little further from your eye. The difference your talking about wouldn't be noticeable unless it's a major difference in cams.

I have fount this too, my Centergry Hybrid I run 1/8" and on my Hyperforce I run a 3/16".

 

[N2TRKYS]

My draw length shortened with a shorter bow. I'm going back to a longer bow for my next bow.

 

[gretch6364]

You western hunters/elk chasers, are you mostly shooting longer ATA bows to take advantage of the additional forgiveness?

Other then a handful of ounces, I have not come up with a reason to shoot anything shorter then 35" ATA. Am I missing something? Also, short bows make me feel like I am holding a toy...haha

 

[Brendan]

A couple comments...

"Textbook" draw length is to have the bow arm straight, parallel to the ground, string just at the tip of your nose. If you go from a long axle to axle bow, to a short one with a steeper string angle, you need a longer draw length to keep the string at the tip of your nose as opposed to in front of it in space (all else equal).

But, that makes you anchor further back, so you need to shorten up your D-loop (if you can) to get your anchor back further forward, or you need to get comfortable with a different anchor.

Peep size will need to go up with a shorter axle to axle bow because the peep is further from your eye with the steeper string angle (This is for a short vs. long axle bow with string still at the tip of your nose)

Regarding long axle to axle bows: Generally they are more forgiving, have a better string angle and more latitude where you anchor. Shorter A2A bows are generally a little faster.

 

[Gagster7]

A couple comments...

"Textbook" draw length is to have the bow arm straight, parallel to the ground, string just at the tip of your nose. If you go from a long axle to axle bow, to a short one with a steeper string angle, you need a longer draw length to keep the string at the tip of your nose as opposed to in front of it in space (all else equal).

But, that makes you anchor further back, so you need to shorten up your D-loop (if you can) to get your anchor back further forward, or you need to get comfortable with a different anchor.

Peep size will need to go up with a shorter axle to axle bow because the peep is further from your eye with the steeper string angle (This is for a short vs. long axle bow with string still at the tip of your nose)

Regarding long axle to axle bows: Generally they are more forgiving, have a better string angle and more latitude where you anchor. Shorter A2A bows are generally a little faster.

Thank you