Lightweight 7mm mag with no muzzle brake?

Ridge Ghost

Ridge Ghost

WKR
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
1,185
Location
Missoula, MT
My go-to gun for elk, deer and antelope is currently a Remington 700 in 7mm mag. It weights about 7lb 10z with just the bare gun. It's not a complete tank, but I would like a lighter mountain gun. I am considering buying either a Tikka T3x lite or Superlite both to cut some weight and have a nicer factory trigger.

How much more recoil would I notice by shooting a lighter rifle in the same caliber? Recoil has never been an issue for me with my heavier R700. I have seen quite a few threads on here with guys adding muzzle brakes to their lightweight magnums, but I would prefer not to use one because I don't want the added noise, don't want to think about earplugs while hunting, etc. While I want to make my setup lighter, I don't want to affect my accuracy or shooting confidence.

Any advice or shared experiences?
 
I should probably mention that I'm not a long-range shooter and I don't spend a ton of time at the range. I practice enough to be proficient at ranges of 0-400 yards while hunting.
 
I bought my father a T3X in 7mmRM, I broke it in for him and sighted it in...I thought it was very manageable without a break.
 
Thanks Robby! I now remember reading your article before. Great write up. I do have a couple of questions:

-Did you notice a significant difference in recoil going from a 7mm to 270 wsm?
-You mention that your gun is primarily for mule deer. Would you make the same decision if you also hunted elk regularly?
 
I'll give you my opinion based on my limited experience. My primary rifle is a very old Ruger M77 Mark II 7mm Mag, the one with the lightweight "Skeleton" composite stock. I've had it for over 25 years now b/c it shoots dead-on-balls and is super rugged. It has no muzzle break and no recoil pad (b/c I can't figure out a good way to mount a limbsaver on the oddly shaped butt stock - very, very narrow, no surface area). Weighs in at 8.0# including the 4x12x40 scope (also circa 1992) and rings. So, it's not super lightweight by current standards, but it ain't bad for a vintage 1992 rifle. I'm sure 8# would not be considered a "lightweight" rifle by many people on here that know oceans more than me on this subject, but for arguments sake it's lighter than your current setup.

It just plain hurts shooting it at the range. I don't look forward to the experience. Once a year I shoot a 3 shot group at 100, 1 shot at 400 and I'm done b/c it's about all I can take and I don't want to start developing bad habits. (Really saves money on ammo though)

But, when a critter is in the crosshairs, I never feel a thing. At least I don't remember feeling anything.


I've used it like this for many years b/c just like you I don't want the extra noise or required earplugs while hunting. But I also want to practice more without taking such a beating. So, just last week I ordered a muzzle break from Brownells, should be in on Monday. Local smith is going to thread the barrel and install it for me. I simply plan to use the break when I practice and remove it/replace with collar while hunting. Hopefully he can get a limbsaver pad mounting option figured out while he has it.


I'll let you know how it works out, but I think this is going to do the trick for me. Again I'm no expert, but there's no reason I can think of that this wouldn't also work for you on that Tikka. Hope this helps. Good luck. New guns are always fun.
 
I shot a Tikka T3 superlight (actually 3 of them) in 7mm Rem Mag for literally thousands of rounds in all sorts of contorted positions but mostly off the bench - I always change out the pad for a limbsaver no matter the gun - I would not even THINK of putting a brake on that model / cartridge combo, It just does not warrant it - I personally think that, for the most part, muzzle brakes are the "latest thing" because they somehow look cool but they sure don't sound cool nor does adding 1 1/2" + to the end of the barrel - Of course there are "special" cases but so are there easier to shoot chamberings that do the job as well (in some instances as good or better) AND I have a very good gunsmith friend who has a patented design that is no more loud than the same rifle NONbraked .. I personally like 140 Accubonds and Etips but buddies like 162 SST's also
 
Last edited:
FlyGuy said:
I'll give you my opinion based on my limited experience. My primary rifle is a very old Ruger M77 Mark II 7mm Mag, the one with the lightweight "Skeleton" composite stock. I've had it for over 25 years now b/c it shoots dead-on-balls and is super rugged. It has no muzzle break and no recoil pad (b/c I can't figure out a good way to mount a limbsaver on the oddly shaped butt stock - very, very narrow, no surface area). Weighs in at 8.0# including the 4x12x40 scope (also circa 1992) and rings. So, it's not super lightweight by current standards, but it ain't bad for a vintage 1992 rifle. I'm sure 8# would not be considered a "lightweight" rifle by many people on here that know oceans more than me on this subject, but for arguments sake it's lighter than your current setup.

It just plain hurts shooting it at the range. I don't look forward to the experience. Once a year I shoot a 3 shot group at 100, 1 shot at 400 and I'm done b/c it's about all I can take and I don't want to start developing bad habits. (Really saves money on ammo though)

But, when a critter is in the crosshairs, I never feel a thing. At least I don't remember feeling anything.


I've used it like this for many years b/c just like you I don't want the extra noise or required earplugs while hunting. But I also want to practice more without taking such a beating. So, just last week I ordered a muzzle break from Brownells, should be in on Monday. Local smith is going to thread the barrel and install it for me. I simply plan to use the break when I practice and remove it/replace with collar while hunting. Hopefully he can get a limbsaver pad mounting option figured out while he has it.


I'll let you know how it works out, but I think this is going to do the trick for me. Again I'm no expert, but there's no reason I can think of that this wouldn't also work for you on that Tikka. Hope this helps. Good luck. New guns are always fun.
Click to expand...

a Hogue stock change out may just make your day
 
Muzzle brakes are for wimps. Shoot a smaller caliber if you can't handle the recoil.
If anyone is sitting beside you they will get rocked by the noise and muzzle blast. Not fun at all when you are trying to watch through binoculars for a hit. I always cringed whenever I had to guide someone with a muzzle brake.

I liked the article Robby. I have done quite a bit of hunting and guiding and agree with most everything you wrote.
 
Ridge Ghost said:
I should probably mention that I'm not a long-range shooter and I don't spend a ton of time at the range. I practice enough to be proficient at ranges of 0-400 yards while hunting.
Click to expand...

I made a similar decision a few years ago. Gun #1: Interarms Mark X Mauser, 7 R M, 9# w scope, no recoil pad. My only big game rifle for 20 yr. Never noticed recoil while shooting @ game. @ the range I use extra padding (gun case over shoulder), recoil gets uncomfortable around 10 rounds. Carrying it got uncomfortable on long days hunting w my old shoulder.

Gun #2: Stevens 200 (think Savage 110), 270 Win, 6.5# w scope, thin factory recoil pad. Subjectively, recoil is 90% of #1 depending on bullet weights in each gun. The 270's trajectory 140 gr bullet is essentially equal to the 7RM's w 160 gr. Neither gun has a brake.

I did not want the same rifle twice. I wanted #2 to carry all day all over the Rockies, almost exclusively for elk, and don't shoot beyond 400 yards. While duplicating the 7's trajectory @ my hunting ranges, the 270 has the same energy @ 300 as the 7 has @ 400 yds. No scope adjustment needed, always 3" low @ 300, 14" low @ 400 w both guns. I use whichever fits the plan for the day.

You can step down from magnum and be just as effective on elk @ the ranges you shoot. Less noise and recoil means more comfortable practice and more accuracy. Lighter weight is a noticeable improvement for mobile hunting.
 
elkduds said:
I made a similar decision a few years ago. Gun #1: Interarms Mark X Mauser, 7 R M, 9# w scope, no recoil pad. My only big game rifle for 20 yr. Never noticed recoil while shooting @ game. @ the range I use extra padding (gun case over shoulder), recoil gets uncomfortable around 10 rounds. Carrying it got uncomfortable on long days hunting w my old shoulder.

Gun #2: Stevens 200 (think Savage 110), 270 Win, 6.5# w scope, thin factory recoil pad. Subjectively, recoil is 90% of #1 depending on bullet weights in each gun. The 270's trajectory 140 gr bullet is essentially equal to the 7RM's w 160 gr. Neither gun has a brake.

I did not want the same rifle twice. I wanted #2 to carry all day all over the Rockies, almost exclusively for elk, and don't shoot beyond 400 yards. While duplicating the 7's trajectory @ my hunting ranges, the 270 has the same energy @ 300 as the 7 has @ 400 yds. No scope adjustment needed, always 3" low @ 300, 14" low @ 400 w both guns. I use whichever fits the plan for the day.

You can step down from magnum and be just as effective on elk @ the ranges you shoot. Less noise and recoil means more comfortable practice and more accuracy. Lighter weight is a noticeable improvement for mobile hunting.
Click to expand...

Exactly why, after all these years, I've arrived at the conclusion that the 30.06 does it all in today's world - a good 150 virtually matches recoil and trajectories of a good many traditional deer cartridges and 180 is but a smidge behind the 7mm mag with a 160 or 175 - keep in mind also that limbsaver makes a pre-fit pad for nearly every stock living and grind to fits for the holdouts
 
My only hunting rifle is a tikka 7mm all stock with no break. I have zero issues with recoil unless on a bench and want to shoot a box of shells in short order👍
 
Ridge Ghost said:
Thanks Robby! I now remember reading your article before. Great write up. I do have a couple of questions:

-Did you notice a significant difference in recoil going from a 7mm to 270 wsm?
-You mention that your gun is primarily for mule deer. Would you make the same decision if you also hunted elk regularly?
Click to expand...

Hi. Less recoil in the 270 WSM but far from apples to apples as I always shot 150-168 in the 7mm but shoot 130s in the 270WSM. I'd hunt elk with the 270WSM but not with the 130s. Prolly step up to the 150gr but then your getting back to the recoil of a 7mm. We're starting to split hairs over this stuff and his why I pointed out in the article I just hunt mule deer and that's why that gun was a better choice for me, if you're looking for an all-around gun I'd lean towards a 7MM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
robby denning said:
Hi. Less recoil in the 270 WSM but far from apples to apples as I always shot 150-168 in the 7mm but shoot 130s in the 270WSM. I'd hunt elk with the 270WSM but not with the 130s. Prolly step up to the 150gr but then your getting back to the recoil of a 7mm. We're starting to split hairs over this stuff and his why I pointed out in the article I just hunt mule deer and that's why that gun was a better choice for me, if you're looking for an all-around gun I'd lean towards a 7MM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

my son and son-in-law both were shooting 270 WSM for all until they bought 300 Win mags this past season, I built a load for the SiL's with 130 etips that is an absolute "one shot DRT" on elk, the son's WSM shoots the same load good enough for elk but not as good as the Tikka barrel (his was rebarreled by John Noveske with a PacNor for me a while before John left us, it seems to prefer 150's) If your gun will shoot the Etips they are as good a game bullet as I've seen
 
I have a Tikka T3 7RM with an APA brake on it. My intent was to get into some long range shooting and have a break to spot shots and not come off target so much. Well as most people who think about long range shooting i haven't really put much time into it. Don't get me wrong a brake makes a gun much easier to shoot for say my wife or at the range, but i don't think it makes a difference for someone who is used to shooting larger calibers without brakes. I took it on a mule deer hunt this year and when I shot my deer i thought my dang ear drums exploded. Wont make that mistake again as I am removing the brake. Needless to say I think your fine if you have been shooting that Remington of yours. Also I second GK on the limbsavers. You just can't beat them.IMG_0978.jpg
 
You could look to Witt machine and get a slip on brake for range time and take it off for hunting. I have not done this but talked to a couple local guys that have gone this route
 
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