Let's See Your Semi-Custom Tikka Builds

Firedad

FNG
Joined
May 21, 2022
Messages
57
Cut your losses before going down that rabbit hole. Sell your x bolt and get something that works for your 7prc goal
Ok maybe won’t sell but I’ll listen to your advice and go the tikka build or buy a factory 7 prc
 
Joined
Dec 28, 2019
Messages
1,876
Yikes. Heat gun is probably excessive. Hair dryer to just warm it up and it pried right off.

Actually it helped but it was still a pain to remove. I had to fasten a cross slot scope ring and use a broom handle in the ring to pop it off.
 

Sled

WKR
Joined
Jun 11, 2018
Messages
2,265
Location
Utah
Pro tip

Be very careful when using a heat gun to remove factory CTR rail. I was applying heat to top of rail and side and sure enough I scorched part of my factory stock. Thankfully I’m getting a KRG Bravo.

Pro tip

Take the the action off the stock when applying heat to the action. And if I need to say that... Also remove the scope and rings before pulling the rail off.
 

Kimmo H

FNG
Joined
Jan 3, 2023
Messages
58
The CTR picatinny rail is easy to pop off by taking off the retaining screws and putting one of them on the most forward screw slot that acts as a heat shield attachment point. Look through the screw holes and you'll notice that there is no hole under the foremost screw, so you can use that as a puller basically. Tighten that down against the top of the action until the locker bond breaks, and then just wiggle the rail while lifting it up. The recoil pins tend to grab unless you wiggle it a bit while pulling it off.
I have taken a dozen rails off like that without heating and have never made a mark on the action, but use the above procedure on your account. I'll not be taking responsibility if the screw marks the top of the action for some reason in some individual gun.

There is something a bit like thread locker between the rail and action, and those remnants are a b**ch to clean up without scrathing the action. I use a mix of chemicals like Tetra gun action blaster to dissolve them, and then some fine steel wool with oil to smooth out the surface texture evenly if the action isn't going to cerakote for example.
 
Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
9,678
Cut your losses before going down that rabbit hole. Sell your x bolt and get something that works for your 7prc goal

I tend to agree against planning a build on an Xbolt and I use my xbolt a ton. I don't see why if he has a mag bolt it wouldn't work with a 7RM or 300WM mag and a 7prc barrel?
 

trolson90

FNG
Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Messages
99
Location
Northern Utah
I tend to agree against planning a build on an Xbolt and I use my xbolt a ton. I don't see why if he has a mag bolt it wouldn't work with a 7RM or 300WM mag and a 7prc barrel?
The issue isn't the mag bolt it's the bottom metal and mag because his original gun is a 30-06 and not a magnum LA action. The 30-06 and 7 PRC have the same COAL at 3.34 though. So, it could work as long as you're happy with factory loads.
 

renagde

WKR
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Messages
1,720
Location
Somewhere in Paradise
The issue isn't the mag bolt it's the bottom metal and mag because his original gun is a 30-06 and not a magnum LA action. The 30-06 and 7 PRC have the same COAL at 3.34 though. So, it could work as long as you're happy with factory loads.
All Tikkas are long action. The PRC is 3.34 saami. Factory 180 eld-m loads are not loaded that long. You have some wiggle room to find the lands. You might not be able to load the whole way out but with a Mountain Tactical magazine you can go out to 3.4 which should be close enough.
 
Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
9,678
The issue isn't the mag bolt it's the bottom metal and mag because his original gun is a 30-06 and not a magnum LA action. The 30-06 and 7 PRC have the same COAL at 3.34 though. So, it could work as long as you're happy with factory loads.

That's why i said using a magnum magazine assuming the bottom metal is the same. Maybe i'm wrong and there are significant differences between LA and LA magnum receivers. An xbolt magazine for 300wm isn't restricted to 3.34 COAL. One would need to confirm:

-Receiver for 30/06 class cartridges and LA magnum cartridges are the same and the bolts interchange appropriately
-Bottom metal is the same for LA standard and LA magnum. Likely just a matter of buying different bottom metal if it isn't the same.

Edit to add: If all this works it could turn out preferable to using a tikka in some regards. Longer COAL with factory mags and i prefer the flush fitting mags on xbolts to tikka when carrying the gun.
 
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Firedad

FNG
Joined
May 21, 2022
Messages
57
That's why i said using a magnum magazine assuming the bottom metal is the same. Maybe i'm wrong and there are significant differences between LA and LA magnum receivers. An xbolt magazine for 300wm isn't restricted to 3.34 COAL. One would need to confirm:

-Receiver for 30/06 class cartridges and LA magnum cartridges are the same and the bolts interchange appropriately
-Bottom metal is the same for LA standard and LA magnum. Likely just a matter of buying different bottom metal if it isn't the same.

Edit to add: If all this works it could turn out preferable to using a tikka in some regards. Longer COAL with factory mags and i prefer the flush fitting mags on xbolts to tikka when carrying the gun.
So from what I’m getting here is 30.06 factory mag would work with factory 7prc and the receiver will work. So all I’d need to buy is a magnum bolt and a barrel correct?
 

renagde

WKR
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Messages
1,720
Location
Somewhere in Paradise
So from what I’m getting here is 30.06 factory mag would work with factory 7prc and the receiver will work. So all I’d need to buy is a magnum bolt and a barrel correct?
Correct. If you're buying a new gun I would say buy a 7mm Rem Mag or 300 win mag. That'll get you the magnum bolt face and long action bolt stop. Then buy the Mountain Tactical magazine.
 
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prm

WKR
Joined
Mar 31, 2017
Messages
2,243
Location
No. VA
T3X Superlite.
Barrel bored/rechambered to .338 Fed. Had a custom reamer made that incorporates a modern throat design.
SWFA 6X Mil on TO84s
LRI fluted bolt
Witt muzzle break (purchased after dislocating rt shoulder and I still wanted to shoot).
Vertical grip
Hunting load will probably be 175 Hammer Hunter going 2800+ fps using Benchmark.
5C5B5A66-F992-4C5F-88D8-7107A3E10C0A.jpeg
 
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Antares

WKR
Joined
Jan 13, 2021
Messages
2,083
Location
Alaska
T3X Superlite.
Barrel bored/rechambered to .338 Fed. Had a custom reamer made that incorporates a modern throat design.
SWFA 6X Mil on TO84s
LRI fluted bolt
Witt muzzle break (purchased after dislocating rt shoulder and I still wanted to shoot).
Vertical grip
Hunting load will probably be 175 Hammer Hunter going 2800+ fps using Benchmark.
View attachment 499500
Is that a dip or a stencil on the stock? Looks great!
 

Gila

WKR
Joined
Apr 25, 2020
Messages
1,197
Location
West
So from what I’m getting here is 30.06 factory mag would work with factory 7prc and the receiver will work. So all I’d need to buy is a magnum bolt and a barrel correct?
If you don’t handload, then you won’t get any benefit from a 7 PRC over a 7 REM MAG. Actually, you would be extremely limited with a 7 PRC. You can get about 35 different factory loads for a 7 Rem Mag all of the way up to 175 gr. With a 7 PRC, you will be stuck with two hunting loads in 160 gr CX, 175 Gr ELD-X and one 180 gr ELD-M match load.

The Tikka T3x magazine is limited in length to a 3.37” long cartridge. If you are going to hand-load to wring out the ballistics that the 7 PRC was designed for, you will need a magazine capable of holding a cartridge that is 3.6” long. The Tikka T3x action is only capable of a cartridge length of 3.5” without extensive modifications by a gunsmith to the action and stock. As far as reloading components for a 7 PRC well, good luck with finding the brass right now. You will need the magnum bolt face for the 7 Rem Mag or the 7 PRC.
 
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