It wasn’t Talley - it’s apparently me. Scope won’t stay fixed - Update: fixed. Added to first post

[ResearchinStuff]

I doubt 18 in-lb is anywhere near enough to actually close that gap in the talleys all the way. and the requisite amount of torque is probably way beyond what the screws can actually handle. hopefully your deliveries fix the problem.

 

[freddyG]

Yup. Tried like hell to find two piece pic bases, they don’t exist for a non magnum/6 lug W’by. So rail it is. For now.

Later down the road if you don’t like the height and want to go lower, you can buy the warne bases, and have a smith open up the slots so a pic ring can be used. Most warne bases are .15 tall, so you drop down at least a tenth of an inch lower.

Trust me, you will be shocked how easy things go when your parts arrive in a few days.

 

[Bluto]

LOL! Who said a $400 rail is the only solution? I certainly didn’t. Warne has 2pc base that will work but unfortunately they’re out of stock. That Loopy rail is short in height on the rear for the Weatherby so you can bed it to take up the space and then chop it. You can chop the EGW. Weaver has 2pc bases they’re cheap but they work.

People have been complaining about Talley 1pc cracking and being oval for quite a few years. If you want, use them but research Al Nyhus on the 24hr campfire to see what he does with them.

Haven’t heard this about the Leupold rail, other than those using Rem 700 bases which are either 0.002 or 0.003 too low, depending on which forum you read. Is this a known issue? I have two rails inbound. Eventually I may cut one, but for this single application it needs to be a proper fit and bolt on.

 

[PsRpOiGrRiAtM]

Haven’t heard this about the Leupold rail, other than those using Rem 700 bases which are either 0.002 or 0.003 too low, depending on which forum you read. Is this a known issue? I have two rails inbound. Eventually I may cut one, but for this single application it needs to be a proper fit and bolt on.

I'm curious about this, too--I've never seen anything about the Leupold rail being too short in back.

 

[ChrisAU]

There’s only one plausible explanation left.

Your rifle is cursed. Call you local priest for an exorcism. The ghost of dead elk past is grabbing your scope and turning it.

I’ve never had a single slip or rotation with a couple dozen sets of Talley’s, or any ring for that matter, from $10 Amazon chinesiums to my new favorite ARC M-Brace rings that could be shot out of a cannon into the side of an armored tank and still be fine.

 

[amassi]

Haven’t heard this about the Leupold rail, other than those using Rem 700 bases which are either 0.002 or 0.003 too low, depending on which forum you read. Is this a known issue? I have two rails inbound. Eventually I may cut one, but for this single application it needs to be a proper fit and bolt on.

I have 2 of the 0 moa rail on 6 lug mark Vs and neither of the rails are short at the rear

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Bluto]

There’s only one plausible explanation left.

Your rifle is cursed. Call you local priest for an exorcism. The ghost of dead elk past is grabbing your scope and turning it.

I’ve never had a single slip or rotation with a couple dozen sets of Talley’s, or any ring for that matter, from $10 Amazon chinesiums to my new favorite ARC M-Brace rings that could be shot out of a cannon into the side of an armored tank and still be fine.

I don’t have an argument against it.

Would bourbon work? Asking for a friend.

 

[Bluto]

I have 2 of the 0 moa rail on 6 lug mark Vs and neither of the rails are short at the rear

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Perfect. Thanks

 

[260madman]

I have 2 of the 0 moa rail on 6 lug mark Vs and neither of the rails are short at the rear

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

I reread the info I found and they could be referring to the magnum action. Something about .012” difference.

 

[SDHNTR]

Just curious, have you contacted Weatherby and asked them what their preferred scope mounting system is?

 

[Bluto]

I did speak to them, they were understandably noncommittal to a brand or style. Other than “maybe the Talley’s were defective.”

Live update, at the range waiting on the barrel to cool between groups.

I got the torque wrench out last night, and I think the hand tightening technique left some needed force on the table. At 20in-lb plus a little, no loctite, she’s good through 9 rounds. A personal record so far. If it goes through two boxes…

…I’ll never use loctite or not go 20+ again.

 

[Uncle Bill]

I’ve been following this from the start as I’m going to be mounting a scope on a vanguard in the near future and was planing on using the Leuopld or Talley one piece ring and base combo.

 

[BjornF16]

Do I smell a Fiend?!

Juvat!

What is good?!

 

[Bluto]

In the words of the ancient philosopher Borat:
“It is great success.”

40 rounds, witness marks on the scope tube stayed true.

For those not into 12 pages of posts novels, here’s my assessment:

Leupold’s - probably fine, just the wrong part. I still can’t get the website to show which is 6 vs 9 lug, but I clicked “buy” and paid the money. I own it.

The Talley’s finally held. Most recent round of failure I’m positive was because they weren’t tight enough. I ditched the torque wrench and used the included torx elbow wrench. Last night, I set the torque wrench low and incrementally increased it until it would back the screws out. My rough guess is that hand tightening put them in the mid teens. I busted the torque wrench out, put 25-ish on them, dry, held fine today. The difference is the very first time they had a good amount of loctite on them, and were at the 20in-lb mark.

Lessons learned:
- Form has a great detailed writeup on installation on another forum with good photos. But, he also lives in a world where he shoots/observes more rounds fired every month than I have shot in my adult life. If you do as well, press on, brother. My feel for it is substandard. I’m pretty good at flying, but it’ll be a torque wrench for me from now on.

- Loctite. I’ve read dozens of convincing arguments for and against. I’ve traditionally used it. BUT: I noticed through the process that it never set. During disassembly, most of it was still wet, even if after a week. I suspect that living in a grossly humid environment is not a good thing for it. So pardon my French, but I’ll be going in dry from now on. (I will , however, dab the screw tops with hardened nail polish to keep junk and moisture out and act as a screw position witness.)

 

[Bluto]

Juvat!

What is good?!

Crush ‘Em

Eagles at Kadena. Honorary boys choir member for a weekend in 2010’ish. Best/worst 72 hours of my life.

 

[SDHNTR]

In the words of the ancient philosopher Borat:
“It is great success.”

40 rounds, witness marks on the scope tube stayed true.

For those not into 12 pages of posts novels, here’s my assessment:

Leupold’s - probably fine, just the wrong part. I still can’t get the website to show which is 6 vs 9 lug, but I clicked “buy” and paid the money. I own it.

The Talley’s finally held. Most recent round of failure I’m positive was because they weren’t tight enough. I ditched the torque wrench and used the included torx elbow wrench. Last night, I set the torque wrench low and incrementally increased it until it would back the screws out. My rough guess is that hand tightening put them in the mid teens. I busted the torque wrench out, put 25-ish on them, dry, held fine today. The difference is the very first time they had a good amount of loctite on them, and were at the 20in-lb mark.

Lessons learned:
- Form has a great detailed writeup on installation on another forum with good photos. But, he also lives in a world where he shoots/observes more rounds fired every month than I have shot in my adult life. If you do as well, press on, brother. My feel for it is substandard. I’m pretty good at flying, but it’ll be a torque wrench for me from now on.

- Loctite. I’ve read dozens of convincing arguments for and against. I’ve traditionally used it. BUT: I noticed through the process that it never set. During disassembly, most of it was still wet, even if after a week. I suspect that living in a grossly humid environment is not a good thing for it. So pardon my French, but I’ll be going in dry from now on. (I will , however, dab the screw tops with hardened nail polish to keep junk and moisture out and act as a screw position witness.)

Quite interesting. My usual program with Talley Lw’s (after lapping) is 20 in lbs and Loctite. Just curious, specifically what Loctite did you use? I’ve had bad luck with the Permatex brand and it never curing. Some formulas can also react with oils/grease and not cure. I specifically use Loctite brand #243 which is oil resistant and medium strength (same as 242, just oil resistant). Never a problem. I also toss the bottle after a year or so. I don’t know if that stuff goes bad or not, but I’ve had other adhesives go bad on the shelf so I view it as cheap insurance.

 

[SDHNTR]

Also, that SWFA scope you have has gigantic turrets. I wonder if there is something affecting the physics of that scope during recoil that creates rotational inertia, due to those big turrets? Just a thought. And might be why it spins/rotates vs slips fore/aft and requires more ring torque to hold fast.

 

[Bluto]

You bring up another great point.

Permatex. Probably crap. Oily residue no matter how long it sets. Although I did get a small disposable tube of Loctite from the gun shop, mostly same result (but combined with the torque issue. So I’m not convinced.)

 

[BBob]

- Loctite. I’ve read dozens of convincing arguments for and against. I’ve traditionally used it. BUT: I noticed through the process that it never set. During disassembly, most of it was still wet, even if after a week. I suspect that living in a grossly humid environment is not a good thing for it. So pardon my French, but I’ll be going in dry from now on. (I will , however, dab the screw tops with hardened nail polish to keep junk and moisture out and act as a screw position witness.)

Loctite is anaerobic, anywhere it is exposed to air it will not set. It will only set in tight confines of places of close fitting parts like threads or bearing races to a bore. Some products are designed to work with larger clearances and some with less. Some applications require a primer or will do better with a primer. There are different primers for different product and or applications. Confused yet?

 

[sndmn11]

Are you going to remount now with bedding or loctite?

I'd still do 28inlbs, I use orange thread locker.

Permatex® High Strength Removable Threadlocker Orange Gel, 5 G - Permatex®

www.permatex.com