help me trouble shoot my rifle

[XLR]

Full length sized

should measurements - sized .169 fired .161 I dont have any speacial tools for this im literally holding my micrometer up to it if it maters

It has only had roughly 20 rounds though it. I did clean it prior to my last attempt

.200 line on fired .298 - unfired .293 (I assumed you meant .200"down then the diameter at that point?

Ok first thing I would get is the below product so you can get a correct measurement on how far you are bumping your shoulders. The hornady kit works pretty well so I will put a link below. The reason you want this is to tell whether you are bumping the shoulders back .002"-.003". If you are not bumping the shoulders then you will have a hard extraction after firing like you are experiencing.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Ga 5 Bushing Set Comparator

The Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gauge is a great tool for increasing the accuracy of your loaded ammunition. The Headspace gauge measures from the...

www.midwayusa.com

The .200 line is from the case head to .200" up the base of the case. I will put a link to give a little further explanation and where to measure. The reason this line is important is if your case is not sizing this portion of the brass you will get hard extraction like you are seeing. When you read about clickers in the PRC family this is the reason! If you have an undersized chamber or oversized die this will also cause hard extraction. Take a look at the link and those measurements so you can throw that variable out too.

You are being redirected...

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[Blaw]

These are getting a rep for this....but first, check primary extraction. The bolt cams back as it's rotated. If you have little cam engagement....it makes for trouble.

If you search primary extraction for your rifle action.....pics will guide you.

BAM 99% Wrench nailed it!
I had the thought...I will take the worst spent case I have from this scenario (getting stuck on extraction) Put it in the chamber and see if I can pull back the bolt with factory bolt handle and the aftermarket one from lumleys...

well! the aftermarket one wouldnt pull back

the factory one had a smidge more camming...and popped the case out.

Now I have to look into how I can correct this with the aftermarket bolt handle...

OR I just sell the whole thing and become a one gun man with my tikka. Get a XLR chassis and feel gucci in the mountains

 

[Blaw]

Ok first thing I would get is the below product so you can get a correct measurement on how far you are bumping your shoulders. The hornady kit works pretty well so I will put a link below. The reason you want this is to tell whether you are bumping the shoulders back .002"-.003". If you are not bumping the shoulders then you will have a hard extraction after firing like you are experiencing.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Ga 5 Bushing Set Comparator

The Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gauge is a great tool for increasing the accuracy of your loaded ammunition. The Headspace gauge measures from the...

www.midwayusa.com

The .200 line is from the case head to .200" up the base of the case. I will put a link to give a little further explanation and where to measure. The reason this line is important is if your case is not sizing this portion of the brass you will get hard extraction like you are seeing. When you read about clickers in the PRC family this is the reason! If you have an undersized chamber or oversized die this will also cause hard extraction. Take a look at the link and those measurements so you can throw that variable out too.

You are being redirected...

forum.accurateshooter.com

I will totally look into this. My reloading is pretty basic so this will just be good to know anyway
thank you!

 

[Bowhunter1287]

So I had the same issue when I change bolt handle out and what I did on my two rifles is I took rear baffle off drilled two small holes tapped the holes for Allen screws from menards and screwed Allen screws in so your rear baffle is pushed away from action to engage primary extraction and then lock tight the screws everything works great and have no problems with either rifles for extraction.

 

[Mojave]

Not super common in standard non-belted cartridges but your die may not be sizing the base of the case and they might have expanded larger than the barrel/bolt allow.

Or vice versa. There is something on the bolt face or barrel chamber that is causing the chamber to be out of sorts.

 

[Dos XX]

BAM 99% Wrench nailed it!
I had the thought...I will take the worst spent case I have from this scenario (getting stuck on extraction) Put it in the chamber and see if I can pull back the bolt with factory bolt handle and the aftermarket one from lumleys...

well! the aftermarket one wouldnt pull back

the factory one had a smidge more camming...and popped the case out.

Now I have to look into how I can correct this with the aftermarket bolt handle...

OR I just sell the whole thing and become a one gun man with my tikka. Get a XLR chassis and feel gucci in the mountains

Or do something crazy and use the factory bolt handle. Lame. I know.

 

[Blaw]

Or do something crazy and use the factory bolt handle. Lame. I know.

its 5 oz!

just when you thought it couldnt get anymore rediculous eh? lol

 

[Blaw]

So I had the same issue when I change bolt handle out and what I did on my two rifles is I took rear baffle off drilled two small holes tapped the holes for Allen screws from menards and screwed Allen screws in so your rear baffle is pushed away from action to engage primary extraction and then lock tight the screws everything works great and have no problems with either rifles for extraction.

anyway you could post a pic?
it really sucks to do this to a rifle you bought..i guess thats why they are cheaper

 

[Bowhunter1287]

Ya I will try and get a pic. I would rather do that because I also put the Lumley titanium bolt handle on to reduce weight and cool factor lol and I wanted to make it work

 

[Blaw]

Ya I will try and get a pic. I would rather do that because I also put the Lumley titanium bolt handle on to reduce weight and cool factor lol and I wanted to make it work

im wondering if using an epoxy of some sort you could glue part of a nylon washer or something onto it. then its not as much of an eyesore