Glock g20 gen 5 jamming issues

Elkman17

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Aug 11, 2020
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Hi, hoping to get some help on a jamming issue I keep having with my Glock g20 5th gen. It only happens when I shoot the underwood hard cast 200 grain bullets. I swapped out the guide rod and spring to a 22lb and it’s still happening. Has anyone else had this problem and were able to fix it with something else? I’m wondering if it maybe has something to do with the magazine, but it’s the factory Glock mag and I’ve never had problems with them in any of my other glocks. Trying to be more responsible this year with grizzly bear safety while bow hunting and running out of time unfortunately.
 
What exactly is occurring when you say the gun is “Jamming”? Fail to feed, double feed, fail to eject, etc.

Does the “jamming” occur with all the magazines or just one or two?

I did have a G23 approximately 15 years ago that had issues feeding when a TLR-1 was attached to the rail. I changed all the magazine springs to after market extra strength springs and the problem was solved. Do you have a light attached? If so, try shooting without.

Some guns just do not like a certain ammo choice too.
 
Does it do it with other ammo? What exactly does the jam look like? Stovepipe? Bullet caught mid travel?
It doesn’t do it with the cci fmj 180 grain I’ve shot through it, only the underwood hard cast. It’s a nose up jam with the new bullet it’s grabbing from the mag.
 
What exactly is occurring when you say the gun is “Jamming”? Fail to feed, double feed, fail to eject, etc.

Does the “jamming” occur with all the magazines or just one or two?

I did have a G23 approximately 15 years ago that had issues feeding when a TLR-1 was attached to the rail. I changed all the magazine springs to after market extra strength springs and the problem was solved. Do you have a light attached? If so, try shooting without.

Some guns just do not like a certain ammo choice too.
I should have included that, it’s a fail to feed. The new bullet is pinched nose up. I don’t have a light attached but I do have a red dot reflex sight mounted on the rail. I was thinking about changing magazine springs, thank you.
 
Don’t Limp Wrist your G20. Squeeze hard on grip. Ensure that your wrist is inline with your G20, no twist, pull trigger. Hope this helps & good job practicing with your setup before entering the field….you are an intelligent person
 
I don’t think swapping the spring and guide rod is a good idea on gen 4 and gen 5 G20’s as they have the compound recoil spring and the heavier ones revert it back to a Gen 1-3 single spring that is less forgiving of ammo variation. This likely isn’t effecting the failure to feed but it isn’t making the system better or more reliable either.
 
Hi, hoping to get some help on a jamming issue I keep having with my Glock g20 5th gen. It only happens when I shoot the underwood hard cast 200 grain bullets. I swapped out the guide rod and spring to a 22lb and it’s still happening. Has anyone else had this problem and were able to fix it with something else? I’m wondering if it maybe has something to do with the magazine, but it’s the factory Glock mag and I’ve never had problems with them in any of my other glocks. Trying to be more responsible this year with grizzly bear safety while bow hunting and running out of time unfortunately.
You could try a different load, but most likely, it's from limp wristing from a poor grip on the pistol. It's probably worse with the heavier spring. You don't need to polish anything with a Glock. You mention other Glocks; if one is a 9mm, use it with any good barrier blind bullet.
 
Underwood in heavy weight is hard to shoot because it’s so hot. Any off the shelf FMJ isn’t loaded very hot and is easy to handle.

Federal Syntech 200 hardcast have shot pretty well in my gen 3 Glock.
Hornady backcountry defense doesn’t shoot great
Double Tap 200 WFNGC is still the best but can’t get it anymore. I’m milking the last of mine.
Don’t mess with buffalo bore. Not a good match for stock barrel and the 220 hardcast.
Grizzly and HSM bullets leave quite a bit to be desired.
 
If it shoots milky FMJ loads and not a stout 200 grain load then I would first be inspecting my wrists and the bullet profile of the cast load. Some gun/barrels just don’t like those heavy cast profiles.

Glock is one of the few handguns I personally don’t feel need a break in period, but that doesn’t mean you didn’t get a lemon with an issue. Browsing a few 10mm forums shows a few people having issues with hard cast from Underwood in their Gen 5. A few describing an issue like yours.
 
Also consider other loads like Federal Solidcore, Federal HST, underwood 200 gr XTP or the Underwood Lehigh Xtreme penetrators. 200-220 gr 10mm in a Glock can be a reliability crap shoot.
 
Have you tried letting somebody else shoot the gun? Back when I had a gen 4, I was hanging out with a few buddies one day and they wanted to try the gun out, I figured what the heck, let’s shoot the dust out of it. Both of them kept getting jams, when I shot it, there were no issues. Both of those guys were limp wristing it.
 
Hi, hoping to get some help on a jamming issue I keep having with my Glock g20 5th gen. It only happens when I shoot the underwood hard cast 200 grain bullets. I swapped out the guide rod and spring to a 22lb and it’s still happening. Has anyone else had this problem and were able to fix it with something else? I’m wondering if it maybe has something to do with the magazine, but it’s the factory Glock mag and I’ve never had problems with them in any of my other glocks. Trying to be more responsible this year with grizzly bear safety while bow hunting and running out of time unfortunately.

Quickest fix would be to try a different outdoors load - you might consider this one: https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=117

I would also swap back to the original recoil spring setup - if you don't have time to thoroughly test and tune a new spring in a variety of conditions, temps, etc, it's by far going to be the most reliable system for the widest variety of loads and conditions.

Several guys here have mentioned limp-wristing. Two points on that - one, is they may be right. And you don't want to be carrying a gun/ammo setup that requires focusing on not limp-wristing if you're being actively attacked by a predator, possibly even firing one-handed and/or on your back. You want it going bang from any angle, concentrating on grip/wrist-lock or not.

The second point is that the problem of "limp wristing" malfunctions often go away with a good lubricant, thoroughly applied. It's particularly a problem with heavily-sprung guns, even moreso for female shooters with weaker wrists - think subcompact .45s and .40s, with heavy spring systems. At the core of what's going on with limp-wristing is that the slide has to move rearward at a sufficient speed to eject the casing, and forward fast enough with enough momentum to strip the live round off the mag and chamber it firmly. When you get malfunctions you describe, it's almost always because the slide isn't going forward fast enough. Often, that's because it didn't get enough energy into its recoil spring as part of the backward-moving part of the cycle. That can happen with heavy recoiling heavily sprung guns, if the wrist isn't firm enough to allow the slide to go back as far and fast enough to compress the recoil spring with enough energy to fling the slide forward again. A good lubricant can remove enough friction to help overcome that in a lot of cases. I've personally seen both TW-25B and the cherrybalmz Black Rifle Balm eliminate limp-wristing malfunctions in a couple of CCW guns women have been shooting in classes. Between that, going back to stock springs, and possibly a different load, and you should be able to dial things back into reliability. If nothing else, any .40 FMJ should be able to penetrate enough into a bear to get to the vitals, and it's a situation where reliability is far more important than having the hottest, most perfect load to shoot.
 
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