Glock 20 modifications for backcountry carry

Wrench

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Lead would only exponentially increase the problem. Lead has so much variable that it's hard to stand behind. If it's too soft, not lubed, over driven....etc there's no way to control the variables for glock.

I'd shoot 30k psi lead all day long from a stock barrel.....as long as I can control the recipe.
 

dla

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He literally posted the page from glocks website. It says don’t shoot led bullets. Did you not see that?
Which voids your warranty: shooting reloads or shooting lead bullets?
One is a position Glock has taken and the other is a recommendation.
 

thinhorn_AK

"DADDY"
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Which voids your warranty: shooting reloads or shooting lead bullets?
One is a position Glock has taken and the other is a recommendation.

Ask Glock, that literally posted it on their website and it was posted for you. You seem to be an expert so why are you asking me questions? I’m simply pointing out that you constantly argue this get it’s been posted clear as day for you.
 

dla

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Ask Glock, that literally posted it on their website and it was posted for you. You seem to be an expert so why are you asking me questions? I’m simply pointing out that you constantly argue this get it’s been posted clear as day for you.
I'm trying to politely tell you that you have misread/never read your Glock manual and that you don't understand that what was posted was "recommendation" not a "doing so will void your warranty".

Do you like Buffalo Bore ammo? Ever read what Tim (the owner) has to say on this subject?
 

thinhorn_AK

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I'm trying to politely tell you that you have misread/never read your Glock manual and that you don't understand that what was posted was "recommendation" not a "doing so will void your warranty".

Jesus Christ. It was literally posted right on the previous page for you, straight from Glock. We all get it though, you know more about it than Glock does.

I have an idea, if you don’t want to switch barrels then don’t. You are extremely annoying and the way you double down even when info straight from Glock is posted for you is just ridiculous. Please don’t respond to any more of my posts and I’ll extend the same courtesy to you.
 

thinhorn_AK

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It might be a fable, I am asking questions because I'm new to Glock. I know I've read a lot of places other than here that the KKM barrels have more support around the chamber for the heavy loads, plus the non polygonal rifling. Do I need any of that? Heck if I know. I do know that I want the gun to be accurate and reliable. I hope to never shoot at anything living with it, but I want it to perform if it needs to. Lots of people seem to think this upgrade is a good idea and since I don't know any of you guys personally I'm going to go with the numbers. Nothing against you and not saying you are wrong. I am buying this gun as insurance and if an aftermarket barrel can eliminate a couple potential issues I'm willing to buy one as extra insurance.

The case support is a real issue, take tour KKM barrel and your factory barrel and drop a round in it you’ll see the bullet sits deeper in the chamber.
 

dla

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Jesus Christ. It was literally posted right on the previous page for you, straight from Glock. We all get it though, you know more about it than Glock does.

I have an idea, if you don’t want to switch barrels then don’t. You are extremely annoying and the way you double down even when info straight from Glock is posted for you is just ridiculous. Please don’t respond to any more of my posts and I’ll extend the same courtesy to you.
You don't seem to want to read for yourself, preferring instead to stop when something appears to confirm your bias.
Glock doesn't void your warranty for shooting lead bullets. Glock recommends you only shoot jacketed fodder.
Glock says 3 times in the manual that they void your warranty for shooting reloads. Nowhere do they void your warranty for shooting Buffalo Bore 220g hardcast, or any other hardcast ammunition.

My point is that telling people that Glock prohibits shooting lead from a stock barrel is wrong.
 

Fatcamp

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So it's a reloadable brass issue with factory barrels, not reliability?

I understand wanting to reuse brass.
 

Rob5589

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Timely discussion as I am about to buy a 20SF. It seems that the bulge issue arises with hot reloads and not factory ammo, from what I have been reading. If reloading, a new barrel seems to be a wise choice. No reloading for me so I am not concerned about reusing brass.

As far as lead; Glock recommends jacketed bullets but stops short of saying you must use jacketed. So take that for what you will. Shooting reloads will void the warranty, which they make abundantly clear.

My plan is Underwood 200 gr hard cast. Only time will tell how it all works out.
 
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Its pretty clear to me between Glocks stance on reloads and recommendations on lead, that if you plan to reload (as a lot of 10 owners do), and particularly if you plan to reload stiff bear loads, and PARTICULARLY if you plan to reload stiff LEAD bear loads.......an aftermarket barrel for shooting those rounds is a pretty good choice.....
As suggested above, if you plan to only shoot factory, you're probably fine with quality heavy hardcast loads (BB, DT, Underwood), provided you are watching for fouling.
 

rbljack

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this was a timely discussion. The last two post above mine seem to confirm my thoughts as well. I have a glock 29, with factory barrel.. I wanted a reliable gun for back up defense while in the woods bowhunting, hiking, turkey hunts, packing meat, etc. Before spring turkey season, I bought some underwood 200 grain and plan to clean my gun and shoot a few of the 200's so see how they group from my sight picture. After that, Im ready for turkey season with a 10mm on my side as a just in case measure. I don't plan to reload, so cleaning the gun and minimal shooting of the heavy hardcast is my plan.

Im surprised the "tumbling" of bullets never came up. There is a youtuber called hickok 45, and he does lots of gun videos. There are a few in the series of 10mm glocks, and he shoots a variety of ammo through them. I think he experienced tumbling on the hardcast over 200mm, but im going off memory. Just thought I should mention that. I should also mention im new to the glocks as well. I did some research over the winter, and knew I wanted a 10mm. I was going to go with the Glock 20, but a deal came up on a 29 that I couldn't pass up...so its mine now. LOL.

To answer the original posters questions, for my glock 29, mods are none... kydex holster that will attach to my pack and that's it. I didn't want the barrel sticking out the bottom of a holster so that I can get clogged with mud or dirt when the pack is going on and off.
 

deadwolf

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Fact...Glock chamber does not fully support the case.
Fact...polygonal rifling does not play well with lead hard cast bullets
Fact...stock spring does not allow proper cycling of the slide for high power loads.
Fact...stainless guide rod better than plastic one.

And that’s all I’ve got to say about that : )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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I’m not trying to derail this thread but hoping to learn. I’m definitely not trying to pick at anybody. I’m a relative newb with semi-autos. I bought a Glock 20 two weeks ago and have run 50 rounds down range. I also read the manual and here’s a pic from it.

4F81BEE2-309C-40C9-AF6F-A8B58531C533.jpeg

I only intend to use factory ammo. Will probably shoot 500 jacketed rounds and 50 hard cast rounds per year. I’m not very good about cleaning guns. Is there any real need for me to “upgrade” any parts?
 
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Not sure if there are some spec issues at play here or something else. I shoot (and have shot for two years)180 gr XTPs loaded with longshot in a factory barrel at stanky speeds, and ive never once seen a bulged case. Probably just jinxed myself by saying that. Dumbass
 

Wrench

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I'd single load the underwood stuff and go pick up my case and inspect it.....especially in a 29. You may find it makes you nervous....or not. I've never shot full zoot 10's from a 29, I honestly can't even imagine that after the pounding my 20 gives.
 
OP
mcseal2

mcseal2

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Any big advantage in penetration with the 220 or 230 over the 200gr Double Tap hardcast? Their factory specs show 1300fps and 750lbs of energy from a Glock 20. If there isn't a reason to go heavier these might be a simple option.
 

Rob5589

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A little research finds the original 10mm load was a 200 grain bullet at 1200 fps. It wasn't until FBI agents could not qualify when the lower power loads were introduced, which in turn lead to the 40 S&W. The Underwood at 1250 is a touch over the original intent of the 10mm loading. Anything less is basically a hot 40 S&W.
 

Fatcamp

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Fact...Glock chamber does not fully support the case.
Fact...polygonal rifling does not play well with lead hard cast bullets
Fact...stock spring does not allow proper cycling of the slide for high power loads.
Fact...stainless guide rod better than plastic one.

And that’s all I’ve got to say about that : )


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So do you have first hand experience with malfunctions in factory G20 pistols? And if so, what type of malfunction and how did you fix it?
 
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