Glacier National Park

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Nov 7, 2012
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As others have said it is getting busy. It is not far from us but we have no plans to go back.
The amount of people in the National Parks is crazy. We feel the same way with Zion. We used to stop in there to go for a hike a few times a year. We could park right in the main lot and jump on a shuttle anytime. Now its just insane. Havent been there in years.
 

Yoder

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Jan 12, 2021
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I always wanted to go to Glacier, ever since I was a kid. It looked so beautiful that it seemed like it might not be real. After hearing everyone talk about reservations to drive on a road and lines to go hiking, it pretty much sounds like it's ruined. I'm not waiting in line like I'm at the drive thru to see one of the natural wonders of the world.
 

Clovis

Lil-Rokslider
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Jul 6, 2012
Messages
194
One man's opinion: I have been to Glacier and to Mt. Rushmore. I would not trade an extra hour in Glacier for a day near Mt. Rushmore--visiting Rushmore was too crowded and not much value for me over a picture of Mt. Rushmore. You may see it differently.
 
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May 1, 2021
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Haven't been to Glacier, but from the above, it sounds like the other top-shelf national parks: best in the off season or get away from the road on a tough trail.

I like Black Hills: Harney Peak, Sylvan Lake, Caves, Grasslands, and the hikes around there. Mt Rushmore is worth one visit, once. Maybe add in the Crazy Horse Monument FWIW. Devil's tower is cool too. It's hollow as a rotten log and there's a small lake on top but it's tough to get to. The hike around the base will take less time than the drive up from the interstate. It's fun-for-all tooling around on the talus. Totally a destination if you can climb and there are guide services if you want to just try.
 

mtwarden

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Glacier is worthwhile if you're hiking; if you're just driving expect bumper to bumper traffic- think LA rush hour!

It's a wee bit better since they've went to permit system, but still sucks driving.

Get 2-3 miles from a trailhead and it starts getting much better.
 
OP
K
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Jul 2, 2016
Messages
408
Wow! Thanks for the info guys. Where is a decent place to spend a few nights on the east side? We’re not finding much available except Glacier Peak in Browning.
 

JGTWI

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Sep 3, 2020
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We did Yellowstone and Glacier last August. Between the two, traffic and crowds in Glacier were far worse. West side of the park was a lot busier than the east.
Definitely heed the advice of getting the advance pass for going to the sun road. I messed it up and tried to get the pass via the lottery system, which is near impossible. Our only way into the park was go either get there right as it opened (didn’t require a pass before a certain time) or to book a red bus tour, which allowed us into the park that day. If you plan to go to any of the more popular spots and get parking, getting in early is a must.

Hiking around Logan pass and many glacier was fantastic. Bring optics- we ended up seeing 4 rams and a mountain goat near Logan pass, was awesome.

Bring bear spray for sure; there were not too many times throughout our trip that I was particularly worried about bears, but you never know. I was surprised at the number of people/families I saw hiking without bear spray at the ready.

We didn’t end up having enough time in glacier, due to getting sick towards the end of our trip. I can’t wait to go back.
 

JGTWI

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Messages
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Wow! Thanks for the info guys. Where is a decent place to spend a few nights on the east side? We’re not finding much available except Glacier Peak in Browning.
We stayed on the west side and drove over to the east side for the day(s). I wouldn’t recommend that if you’re doing more than a couple days on the east side- it’s a trek.

But, the west side of the park had a lot more options. I don’t know that Browning would have many good options. If I were to pick a place, I’d lean towards staying in the Many Glacier hotel. The scenery is beautiful and you can hike right out of the door. I’m not sure about the cost though.
 

Hoyt Ag

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Mar 13, 2022
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73
Our family plans to vacation in Glacier National Park this July. We’re thinking about staying a night or 2 on the west side, driving the road to sun, then staying a night or 2 on the east side. Then maybe taking a road trip in a rental down to Billings for a night, probably do Devils Tower then on to Deadwood for a night or 2 around the Mt Rushmore area. Any tips, must see or do? I assume the roads will be in good condition that time or year?

We did Yellowstone a few years ago.
I was a backcountry ranger for 4 years if you need any hikes that are not so vanilla. PM me if you need any help
 

nodakian

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Dickinson, ND
Wow! Thanks for the info guys. Where is a decent place to spend a few nights on the east side? We’re not finding much available except Glacier Peak in Browning.

Did you look around East Glacier? I can't offer any particular advice on the east side as I always pass through between Kalispell to Great Falls. However, anyone familiar with the area would probably advise you to avoid Browning. Cut Bank is 35 miles further east and perhaps less....exciting. Good luck.
 

CCH

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Mar 10, 2017
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Colorado
I am going to qualify this with the fact that the common ground I have found with my wife for outdoor activities as a trip is camping in a trailer accompanied by biking and hiking. It's not hardcore backpacking or getting entirely away from civilization. However, we really enjoy it and I am thankful for that time together.

My wife and I went up last summer in our camper for our 30th -- not birthdays. We had an awesome time. We went the beginning of June, so couldn't drive straight over from the West side to the East side. Yes, there were reservations to get in on the West side (not the East), but if you camp in the park, that doesn't apply. You can complain about the reservations or you can make one and enjoy the reduced traffic. In general, if you get out early mornings or in the evenings, you'll avoid much of the riff raff.

Found a four wheel drive road in the northwest part that got us to a remote lake and hike. There is a cool little town before you really hit the rough stuff where you can get a bite and beer. For that day, we saw very few people, but did meet an overlander type from Denmark with a very cool Hi-lux based rig at the trailhead and then later ran into him at that bar where we showed him some American hospitality and bought him a beer while listening to some of his travel tales. We took some huckleberry pie to go. That is never a bad call.

Since Going to the Sun Road was closed, hiking traffic where the road stopped was heavy, so we skipped it. However, we found plenty of other hikes to do. We (mainly me) were a bit bummed out at the lack of wildlife on our side other than the mule deer wandering through our campsite and ground squirrels everywhere. We did get reservations on a lake cruise and that was cool, if not our normal thing.

Just outside our campground was a gravel road that we biked on. That same day we biked it, we went back in the truck in the evening with wildlife viewing in mind and saw our first wild grizzly. It was an epic twenty minutes viewing a young grizzly thirty yards away demolishing a log and digging deep for just one ground squirrel. Knowing we'd biked past that spot hours before added to the experience a bit. They hadn't yet closed that road due to bear activity. Oops.

We only made it to the east side once as it was a haul with the park road closed. However, we had a black bear cross just in front of us shortly after entering, so that was also cool. Mountain goats at the lick on the way added a bit more to that leg of the trip. Very cool drive over there if you like driving and seeing country. There are also some good hikes off that road.

Based on our limited experience, the eastern side is better for wildlife and offers access to the adjoining Canadian park to the north, but is definitely more remote. The west side offers more comfort stuff if you want dining and the like -- we didn't since we were in a camper. It also offers access to some pretty remote driving options for a national park that I haven't run into elsewhere.

We did much more, and I won't bore you further with details. However, I've been to many national parks including Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Rocky Mountain, most of the stuff in Utah and many more. Glacier was worth it and we will probably go back. Have done Rushmore a couple of times, and that is a couple of times I wouldn't do again other than having my kids check a box, although Custer State Park is pretty cool and the Black Hills are beautiful in a smaller way than I'm used to living in the Rockies.

For what it's worth, I drove almost 3,000 miles almost entirely off interstate highway on this trip from Grand Junction, CO through the Royal Gorge up to Bozeman to meet a friend and go bear hunting with him, back over to Billings to pick up my wife, then to Glacier and then went home through Idaho to go bear hunting with another friend near Ketchum. I think I can say I saw some country and still found Glacier to be pretty impressive.

Nothing is perfect, but if you want to just avoid stuff because other people are there, give up now. The National Park reservations system is here to stay, so take advantage of it rather than fear it. When it comes to the Black Hills and Rushmore, you will need to like being with others... always. As everyone says (or should), YMMV.
 

Big_Sky

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 26, 2013
Messages
127
Location
Montana
Glacier Park vehicle reservations open up tomorrow (2/1) at 8am for reservations between May 26 and June 30th. Then another release date of March 1 for reservations between July 1 and July 31 and another for April 1 for reservations dates of August 1 and August 31, etc.

Link to the reservation site.

Also, if headed towards Billings you might want to detour south of Billings. Go through Red Lodge and take the Beartooth Highway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
K
Joined
Jul 2, 2016
Messages
408
I am going to qualify this with the fact that the common ground I have found with my wife for outdoor activities as a trip is camping in a trailer accompanied by biking and hiking. It's not hardcore backpacking or getting entirely away from civilization. However, we really enjoy it and I am thankful for that time together.

My wife and I went up last summer in our camper for our 30th -- not birthdays. We had an awesome time. We went the beginning of June, so couldn't drive straight over from the West side to the East side. Yes, there were reservations to get in on the West side (not the East), but if you camp in the park, that doesn't apply. You can complain about the reservations or you can make one and enjoy the reduced traffic. In general, if you get out early mornings or in the evenings, you'll avoid much of the riff raff.

Found a four wheel drive road in the northwest part that got us to a remote lake and hike. There is a cool little town before you really hit the rough stuff where you can get a bite and beer. For that day, we saw very few people, but did meet an overlander type from Denmark with a very cool Hi-lux based rig at the trailhead and then later ran into him at that bar where we showed him some American hospitality and bought him a beer while listening to some of his travel tales. We took some huckleberry pie to go. That is never a bad call.

Since Going to the Sun Road was closed, hiking traffic where the road stopped was heavy, so we skipped it. However, we found plenty of other hikes to do. We (mainly me) were a bit bummed out at the lack of wildlife on our side other than the mule deer wandering through our campsite and ground squirrels everywhere. We did get reservations on a lake cruise and that was cool, if not our normal thing.

Just outside our campground was a gravel road that we biked on. That same day we biked it, we went back in the truck in the evening with wildlife viewing in mind and saw our first wild grizzly. It was an epic twenty minutes viewing a young grizzly thirty yards away demolishing a log and digging deep for just one ground squirrel. Knowing we'd biked past that spot hours before added to the experience a bit. They hadn't yet closed that road due to bear activity. Oops.

We only made it to the east side once as it was a haul with the park road closed. However, we had a black bear cross just in front of us shortly after entering, so that was also cool. Mountain goats at the lick on the way added a bit more to that leg of the trip. Very cool drive over there if you like driving and seeing country. There are also some good hikes off that road.

Based on our limited experience, the eastern side is better for wildlife and offers access to the adjoining Canadian park to the north, but is definitely more remote. The west side offers more comfort stuff if you want dining and the like -- we didn't since we were in a camper. It also offers access to some pretty remote driving options for a national park that I haven't run into elsewhere.

We did much more, and I won't bore you further with details. However, I've been to many national parks including Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Rocky Mountain, most of the stuff in Utah and many more. Glacier was worth it and we will probably go back. Have done Rushmore a couple of times, and that is a couple of times I wouldn't do again other than having my kids check a box, although Custer State Park is pretty cool and the Black Hills are beautiful in a smaller way than I'm used to living in the Rockies.

For what it's worth, I drove almost 3,000 miles almost entirely off interstate highway on this trip from Grand Junction, CO through the Royal Gorge up to Bozeman to meet a friend and go bear hunting with him, back over to Billings to pick up my wife, then to Glacier and then went home through Idaho to go bear hunting with another friend near Ketchum. I think I can say I saw some country and still found Glacier to be pretty impressive.

Nothing is perfect, but if you want to just avoid stuff because other people are there, give up now. The National Park reservations system is here to stay, so take advantage of it rather than fear it. When it comes to the Black Hills and Rushmore, you will need to like being with others... always. As everyone says (or should), YMMV.

Sounds like a great trip! Unfortunately, as much as I'd prefer it, a camping trip is a non-starter for my bunch. Mount Rushmore is just one of those check-off items, plus we were interested in staying a day or 2 in Deadwood.
 
OP
K
Joined
Jul 2, 2016
Messages
408
Did you look around East Glacier? I can't offer any particular advice on the east side as I always pass through between Kalispell to Great Falls. However, anyone familiar with the area would probably advise you to avoid Browning. Cut Bank is 35 miles further east and perhaps less....exciting. Good luck.

Yes, there isn't much around East Glacier that is available. Not sure what we will do at this point, but we don't really want to drive back and forth from the West side every day.
 

Cjidaho

FNG
Joined
Jan 12, 2019
Messages
11
Location
ID
Our family plans to vacation in Glacier National Park this July. We’re thinking about staying a night or 2 on the west side, driving the road to sun, then staying a night or 2 on the east side. Then maybe taking a road trip in a rental down to Billings for a night, probably do Devils Tower then on to Deadwood for a night or 2 around the Mt Rushmore area. Any tips, must see or do? I assume the roads will be in good condition that time or year?

We did Yellowstone a few years ago.
It's a great place to visit.
 

GoatPackr

WKR
Joined
Jan 5, 2023
Messages
376
We have taken the family a couple times. We took another family last summer and all had a great time.
So much info it's impossible to go over in a typed message.
Feel free to message me and exchange numbers and I'll be glad to give you some advise on what we have done. Places to stay and things to do.

Kris
 

GoatPackr

WKR
Joined
Jan 5, 2023
Messages
376
Some pics from last summer. Last week of June
 

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