Feedback on Preferred Barrel Hybrid Lite for Tikka T3x Lite

[Okie_Poke]

This has been enlightening. I was under the impression 1/2 x 28 was too small for a 30 caliber, but after doing a little google fu it appears that may be more of a hypothetical than real limitation. Weatherby for instance threads their 300 Wby magnums in 1/2 x 28, and I've seen a couple of other threads on here discussing the issue. I don't have a gunsmith I've worked with before, so I need to find a good one and talk to them a bit. I'm still interested in feedback on the PB Hybrid Lite contour, however, if others have more to share.

 

[Okie_Poke]

i sent my 22" 243 to kampfeld customs and had it cut to 20" and threaded 5/8-24 with a collar. no regrets. shoots great. looks great. under $200 and back in my hands within a week.
View attachment 688656

Just to clarify on this: If I'm understanding correctly, you had a factory lite barrel contour cut back to 20" and threaded 5/8 x 24, and the 'smith added a collar somehow to provide the shoulder? So instead of loctiting on an adapter, did he loctite on the collar?

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

This has been enlightening. I was under the impression 1/2 x 28 was too small for a 30 caliber, but after doing a little google fu it appears that may be more of a hypothetical than real limitation. Weatherby for instance threads their 300 Wby magnums in 1/2 x 28, and I've seen a couple of other threads on here discussing the issue. I don't have a gunsmith I've worked with before, so I need to find a good one and talk to them a bit. I'm still interested in feedback on the PB Hybrid Lite contour, however, if others have more to share.

If you don't have a local one and are shipping things off Kampfeld as mentioned is a strong recommendation, lotta folks have used him.

 

[atmat]

Just to clarify on this: If I'm understanding correctly, you had a factory lite barrel contour cut back to 20" and threaded 5/8 x 24, and the 'smith added a collar somehow to provide the shoulder? So instead of loctiting on an adapter, did he loctite on the collar?

This is correct. Kampfield basically threads on and glues a collar. I’d still say it’s an “adapter” of sorts, except you’re not stacking threading tolerances (and it’s aesthetically way more pleasing).

But even a regular adaptor is fine. Lots of us use them. I think @Formidilosus has said he’s got >20k rounds on adapter setups.

Another good machinest is Class3 Machining in Dallas. He only accepts shipments — even if local — but his work is top notch, quick (<2 weeks), and cheap ($125 for cut/thread).

 

[Okie_Poke]

This is correct. Kampfield basically threads on and glues a collar. I’d still say it’s an “adapter” of sorts, except you’re not stacking threading tolerances (and it’s aesthetically way more pleasing).

But even a regular adaptor is fine. Lots of us use them. I think @Formidilosus has said he’s got >20k rounds on adapter setups.

Another good machinest is Class3 Machining in Dallas. He only accepts shipments — even if local — but his work is top notch, quick (<2 weeks), and cheap ($125 for cut/thread).

Good to know. Conceptually, I like the idea of having actual 5/8 x 24 threads and a glued on collar rather than stacking tolerances with threads on threads. I saw Gavin on "Ultimate Reloader" do something similar with a nut he turned into a contoured shoulder on his channel. I'm sure the adapters are fine, but Murphy likes to visit me and so if I can limit the opportunity for a baffle strike I'm probably going to do so.

 

[atmat]

Good to know. Conceptually, I like the ideal of having actual 5/8 x 24 threads and a glued on collar rather than stacking tolerances with threads on threads. I saw Gavin on "Ultimate Reloader" do something similar with a nut he turned into a contoured contour on his channel. I'm sure the adapters are fine, but Murphy likes to visit me and so if I can limit the opportunity for a baffle strike I'm probably going to do so.

The most likely cause for baffle strike will be your suppressor coming loose. But if you feel better about threaded collar, then that’s an awesome option.

 

[Formidilosus]

Good to know. Conceptually, I like the ideal of having actual 5/8 x 24 threads and a glued on collar rather than stacking tolerances with threads on threads. I saw Gavin on "Ultimate Reloader" do something similar with a nut he turned into a contoured contour on his channel. I'm sure the adapters are fine, but Murphy likes to visit me and so if I can limit the opportunity for a baffle strike I'm probably going to do so.

It’s the same thing. You’re adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor- it’s no different than a suppressor that has to use a muzzle brake. Why people think a gunsmith can chamber a barrel straight for the item that controls an explosion 5” in front of their face, but can’t thread a muzzle is baffling.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

It’s the same thing. You’re adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor- it’s no different than a suppressor that has to use a muzzle brake. Why people think a gunsmith can chamber a barrel straight for the item that controls an explosion 5” in front of their face, but can’t thread a muzzle is baffling.

To be fair there are some hack gun smiths (who you shouldn't use to chamber a barrel either!) that have done crooked threading jobs on folks barrels. But that's irrelevant in regards to using adapters. I just like either having 5/8" threads or a loctited on adapter so my adapter doesn't spin off with the can.

 

[Formidilosus]

To be fair there are some hack gun smiths (who you shouldn't use to chamber a barrel either!) that have done crooked threading jobs on folks barrels. But that's irrelevant in regards to using adapters.

Of course. But well known smiths are easily accessible now. And- all it takes is to screw the can on and look down the bore. Any misalignment is obvious.

I just like either having 5/8" threads or a loctited on adapter so my adapter doesn't spin off with the can.

Oh- they all get Rockset for mine.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Oh- they all get Rockset for mine.

Thank you for mentioning this product, that's what KGM recommended for mine as well.

 

[Okie_Poke]

It’s the same thing. You’re adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor- it’s no different than a suppressor that has to use a muzzle brake. Why people think a gunsmith can chamber a barrel straight for the item that controls an explosion 5” in front of their face, but can’t thread a muzzle is baffling.

Okay, so I'm new here, and I'm hesitant to provide any pushback whatsoever considering where this is coming from. But, humor me and educate me a bit please as I'm obviously missing something. I'll start by saying that I take at face value your and others' assertion that thread adaptes work just fine and there is nothing to worry about (assuming I have a competent 'smith thread the barrel in the first place and I don't try to do this in my garage).

First, I didn't think I had suggested a competent gunsmith couldn't thread the muzzle straight. Although, anecdotally, I have heard about crooked muzzle threads more than crooked chambers, though I chalk that up to folks using their buddy's buddy "Bubba" to do cheap thread jobs in his garage.

Second, please explain how the collar and the adapter are the same thing. I understand your analogy as to how the thread adapter and a quick-connect muzzle brake are essentially the same thing---i.e., threads on threads. But if I have the barrel threaded 5/8 to begin with and have a collar installed, the collar is only "adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor" where the collar touches them both, as opposed to adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor for the length of the threads. Right? Or am I missing something?

I get that I may being paraonoid about something that isn't a real problem in the real world. But if I'm going to have a factory barrel threaded to something, and if I have the option of eliminating a set of threads in the threads-on-threads-on-threads (add another "on-threads" if I use a quick detach muzzle brake) connection, that seems preferable to me. I'm gathering it may only be prefereable in theory and not in practice, but that's why I'm asking questions---I'm trying to learn.

Maybe a better way of asking this is whether there is any downside to using the collar method rather than a "traditional" thread adapter?

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Second, please explain how the collar and the adapter are the same thing. I understand your analogy as to how the thread adapter and a quick-connect muzzle brake are essentially the same thing---i.e., threads on threads. But if I have the barrel threaded 5/8 to begin with and have a collar installed, the collar is only "adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor" where the collar touches them both, as opposed to adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor for the length of the threads. Right? Or am I missing something?

I get that I may being paraonoid about something that isn't a real problem in the real world. But if I'm going to have a factory barrel threaded to something, and if I have the option of eliminating a set of threads in the threads-on-threads-on-threads (add another "on-threads" if I use a quick detach muzzle brake) connection, that seems preferable to me. I'm gathering it may only be prefereable in theory and not in practice, but that's why I'm asking questions---I'm trying to learn.

Maybe a better way of asking this is whether there is any downside to using the collar method rather than a "traditional" thread adapter?

No you're viewing it right. There COULD be stacking tolerances with an adapter vs the collar method but in reality its just not an issue with the quality of machinging these days. IMHO as long as you plan to run all 5/8-24 accessories there is no downside to the collar other than a bit more cost typically vs a normal thread job and a more mass produced collar, if tapered well it'll look nicer than a clunkier looking adapter (cosmetic not functional). Also less smiths are familiar with the collar deal so there are more smiths readily avialble to just do a normal thread job.

Mind you this is all assuming you're doing a direct thread can. If you're doing a can that uses a muzzlebrake adapter or such then just thread the barrel to whatever that is and rockset/loctite it on.

Don't over think it. Thread your factory barrel in either method if you wish or feel free ordering a new barrel, its all just money at the end of the day here with really no wrong way being discussed so far.

 

[LeftyWilbury]

Just to clarify on this: If I'm understanding correctly, you had a factory lite barrel contour cut back to 20" and threaded 5/8 x 24, and the 'smith added a collar somehow to provide the shoulder? So instead of loctiting on an adapter, did he loctite on the collar?

factory tikka 22" barrel cut down to 20". I can only speculate on the specific magic he did to get me 5/8-24 threads with an appropriate shoulder for my cans. but i trust his work and i trust the other shop that threaded my tikka 7RM which also required a shoulder. i'm confident neither of these pieces are going to come off.

there are also local smiths who i do not trust to thread a tikka cold-hammer forged barrel. i'll keep using Kampfeld.

i also have a Tikka T3 Tactical that has M18x1 threads. There's an adapter to 5/8-24 roksette'd on there. No problems there.

 

[Ringbill27]

I’m going to be sending my rifle to be threaded. Way cheaper in the short run and the barrel still has tons of life left. No reason to scrap it yet.

 

[Formidilosus]

Okay, so I'm new here, and I'm hesitant to provide any pushback whatsoever considering where this is coming from.

Question everything.

Second, please explain how the collar and the adapter are the same thing. I understand your analogy as to how the thread adapter and a quick-connect muzzle brake are essentially the same thing---i.e., threads on threads. But if I have the barrel threaded 5/8 to begin with and have a collar installed, the collar is only "adding a piece between the barrel and the suppressor"

Ok. There are basically three ideas being discussed simultaneously without clarity.

1). Thread barrel some nominal pitch and then use a full adapter to bring it to 5/8

2). Thread barrel some nominal pitch, then out a pretty looking adaptor over that that looks integral to the barrel and has a pretty collar.

3). Thread barrel 5/8, and just put a collar behind the threads- what you are talking about.


#1 and #2 are identical #2 just looks better, and I guess that’s why people think it’s better- it’s not; it’s the same as any normal $25 thread adapter.

#3 is different, sort of. Yes it’s only the “shoulder” for the can to stop on, but it’s still threaded on and must be aligned correctly with the bore.


The answer to this question is- give it to a competent smith, tell him you want the barrel “x” length, and you need to use a 5/8x24 thread suppressor. They will do it correctly- regardless of which method. Don’t overthink it- it doesn’t matter. Kampfield, shooter71 on here, Unknown Munitions- they all know what they are doing.

 

[HandgunHTR]

i sent my 22" 243 to kampfeld customs and had it cut to 20" and threaded 5/8-24 with a collar. no regrets. shoots great. looks great. under $200 and back in my hands within a week.
View attachment 688656

This is the way.

 

[Bluumoon]

Question everything.




Ok. There are basically three ideas being discussed simultaneously without clarity.

1). Thread barrel some nominal pitch and then use a full adapter to bring it to 5/8

2). Thread barrel some nominal pitch, then out a pretty looking adaptor over that that looks integral to the barrel and has a pretty collar.

3). Thread barrel 5/8, and just put a collar behind the threads- what you are talking about.


#1 and #2 are identical #2 just looks better, and I guess that’s why people think it’s better- it’s not; it’s the same as any normal $25 thread adapter.

#3 is different, sort of. Yes it’s only the “shoulder” for the can to stop on, but it’s still threaded on and must be aligned correctly with the bore.


The answer to this question is- give it to a competent smith, tell him you want the barrel “x” length, and you need to use a 5/8x24 thread suppressor. They will do it correctly- regardless of which method. Don’t overthink it- it doesn’t matter. Kampfield, shooter71 on here, Unknown Munitions- they all know what they are doing

So if I have a Tikka Lite barrel threaded to 5/8-24 I should find a collar to seat against. Currently just screwing suppressor on until it snugs up, but seems less than ideal. Is this just a clamp on collar, or is there a threaded collar that I can find somewhere that would line up appropriately?

 

[Formidilosus]

So if I have a Tikka Lite barrel threaded to 5/8-24 I should find a collar to seat against. Currently just screwing suppressor on until it snugs up, but seems less than ideal. Is this just a clamp on collar, or is there a threaded collar that I can find somewhere that would line up appropriately?

If it’s working, I personally would keep doing it. I have several T3 lite barrels threaded 5/8x24 and just screw the suppressor on. I’m sure an engineer would freak, yet I have thousands and thousands of rounds doing so.

 

[Harvey_NW]

I have a 20" PBB .75" taperless (pretty sure it's the same as the Tikka hybrid as they call it now) in 25 Creedmoor, it is easily my best shooting rifle. I grabbed some Bergers and H4350, and it repeatedly produces .6-.7" 10 shot groups, bare and suppressed. In the factory stock you will have to remove the pressure points, and some material around the shank area for clearance. Easily done with a carbide cutter on a dremel.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I have a 20" PBB .75" taperless (pretty sure it's the same as the Tikka hybrid as they call it now) in 25 Creedmoor, it is easily my best shooting rifle. I grabbed some Bergers and H4350, and it repeatedly produces .6-.7" 10 shot groups, bare and suppressed. In the factory stock you will have to remove the pressure points, and some material around the shank area for clearance. Easily done with a carbide cutter on a dremel.

View attachment 689824

On the hybrid it tapers from the shank faster that your profile, similar to the original lite contour which avoids needing to remove material around the shank like you experienced: