Electrical question

[TaperPin]

200’ is a long way for #6 copper. The barn is 200’ plus whatever is run in the wall to the panel. Without looking at a table I don’t think you can do it without #4 copper because of voltage drop.

For longer runs aluminum is half the price even though you have to upsize it a bit, and it’s twice as stiff so larger conduit is always better than smaller.

 

[Chris in TN]

I have a finished shop already.

Then never mind and carry on; you understand the value of electricity in a barn (shop). I'd probably do what you're doing here, but I'd also at least consider and price out a solar setup if it's just for a few lights.

 

[HairyScandinavian]

This is a pole barn for storage, and we just need lights and few outlets.

You may not need much at all:

200W 12V Complete Off Grid Solar Panel Kit with Inverter + Lithium | ECO-WORTHY

If efficiency, reliability and affordable are high on your wish list, ECO-WORTHY 100W 200W 300W 12V expandable Solar Kit is an ideal choice. ECO-WORTHY 100 Watt 12V Mono solar panel is backed by 25-year linear power guarantee. ECO-WORTHY LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery has twice the...

www.eco-worthy.com

I pieced my system together, but this is similar in size to what I've got going on at camp. In the winter without running a/c I don't run the generator and I've worked (lived) there for 10+ days just on the solar with the fridge running 24/7, everything on except a/c. I have all this setup on a "generator shed" the size of a doghouse about 80' away from the structures and feed it to the subpanel on the cabin with a 3500 watt generator extension cord and have another feed going to the bunkhouse subpanel as well.

400W 12V (4x100W) Complete MPPT Off Grid Solar Kit with 1.1kW Inverter + 1.2kWh Lithium | ECO-WORTHY

If efficiency, reliability and affordable are high on your wish list, ECO-WORTHY 400W 12V expandable Solar Kit is an ideal choice. ECO-WORTHY 100 Watt 12V Mono solar panel is backed by 25-year linear power guarantee. ECO-WORTHY LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery has twice the power, half the...

www.eco-worthy.com

 

[BBob]

I had asked what wire to run direct bury-what wire do you suggest? And to not further be confused, are you suggesting conduit or not?

If it were me my first pick would be running conduit sized for a 100A sub panel. That way you or anyone that follows are set for upgrading to whatever cable you want to run. If you were to ever put a proper sub panel out there I’d pull the appropriate sized aluminum cable. Far more cost effective than copper for longer runs.

 

[Jimmy]

When you start to fill in the trench, bury some scrap pipe or something a couple inches above the electrical. Future owners, or future older you might appreciate having a warning above your electrical.

 

[87TT]

I think a .223 is plenty for moose............................oops wrong thread

 

[DapperDan]

I would install PVC conduit, you may want to add something later. You'll have to do a voltage drop calculation for wire size.

This is the way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ThorM465]

If it were me, I'd run 2-2-2-4 to a 100 amp subpanel. That way you'll at least have some room to grow later if you decide you need more circuits.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-500-ft-2-2-2-4-Gray-Stranded-AL-SER-Cable-13102915/202316610

Square D Homeline 100 Amp 6-Space 12-Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Electrical Panel(HOM612L100RBCP) HOM612L100RBCP - The Home Depot

This Square D Homeline 6-Space 12-Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Load Center are designed for the value-minded contractors, remodelers, builders and homeowners.

www.homedepot.com

 

[CJohnson]

#1/0-1/0-1/0-2 quadriplex URD aluminum wire. Just dig a trench a bury it. No need to run 200’ of conduit in my opinion. Even pvc is expensive these days. Knowing nothing about your current home service, I’d assume it is a 200a - which means sending a #1/0 aluminum wire out to a shop will probably give you enough room for future expansion without costing an arm/leg now.

Take your existing RV plug off the wall and put in a junction box. Make sure you have a black/red/white/(green or bare copper/aluminum) wires. Splice the old wires to the new wires and roll on.

 

[Team4LongGun]

#1/0-1/0-1/0-2 quadriplex URD aluminum wire. Just dig a trench a bury it. No need to run 200’ of conduit in my opinion. Even pvc is expensive these days. Knowing nothing about your current home service, I’d assume it is a 200a - which means sending a #1/0 aluminum wire out to a shop will probably give you enough room for future expansion without costing an arm/leg now.

Take your existing RV plug off the wall and put in a junction box. Make sure you have a black/red/white/(green or bare copper/aluminum) wires. Splice the old wires to the new wires and roll on.

Yes, 200 amp service, with a 50 amp RV service already outside on a post. Want to use that as power to feed the pole barn. I already have a finished shop, as mentioned lights and outlets is all I need. There won't be a down the line change, as this is storage. Shop vac, table saw, maybe a pancake compressor tops.

The lights several have recommended are LED high bays, around 200 watts each. Not sure if I need 6 or 10, going to test it out first.

 

[Team4LongGun]

If it were me my first pick would be running conduit sized for a 100A sub panel. That way you or anyone that follows are set for upgrading to whatever cable you want to run. If you were to ever put a proper sub panel out there I’d pull the appropriate sized aluminum cable. Far more cost effective than copper for longer runs.

How can I power a 100amp sub panel from a 50 amp rv service? I was told I won't even get a true 50 amps because of the distance and loss.

You have confused me again Bob!

 

[Marble]

Calculation is below.

Probably go one size up for added length of your run.

Also, for connecting to underground PVC, use 90 degree sweeps or you can buy non-metallic UALA. Which is like flexible conduit but rated to pull wire through.

If you were in Northern California then I could set you up. But any electrical supply house should be able to get you figured out.

The conduit size recommended is 3/4". I would go larger as it makes it easier to pull. Schedule 40 would work.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[Billy Goat]

How can I power a 100amp sub panel from a 50 amp rv service? I was told I won't even get a true 50 amps because of the distance and loss.

You have confused me again Bob!

Is it just a pole outside that already has 50 amp right where you are running from? Or an exterior wall with an outlet you are drawing off of?


Might not be a concern now, but do something so its marketable in the future, its almost always money well spent.

 

[Team4LongGun]

Is it just a pole outside that already has 50 amp right where you are running from? Or an exterior wall with an outlet you are drawing off of?


Might not be a concern now, but do something so its marketable in the future, its almost always money well spent.

Yes it’s a post outside that has 50 amp RV service which I no longer need.

I don’t want to drill through foundation or tie into panel as this is readily available.

 

[Billy Goat]

Yes it’s a post outside that has 50 amp RV service which I no longer need.

I don’t want to drill through foundation or tie into panel as this is readily available.

How much further would it be to get to the edge of the panel and run a dedicated line?

There's different places, something places you do what it takes to get by, some you do with plans to upgrade. An outdoor building on a decent property it would be hard for me not to spend the little more to make it easy to upgrade later, if not for you, for the potential resale value, or a home inspector coming through and killing a sale going WTF.

If only lights, I'd probably look more and more at solar, or wire the building and picking up a cheap generator. Those are always handy.

 

[tony]

Glad someone else beat me to it to break the news. Don't cheap out here. If at all possible, run conduit. Heck, if you can, run two next to each other and leave one open with a string in it for wire pull if at all possible. Nine Banger nailed it.

This is a Brillant idea!
We are starting a home build and planning a small pole building.

 

[rvalleyp]

If the plan is just LED lighting and convenience receptacles, you don’t need to oversize everything. A run of #2 URD Quad at 50 A will carry 200 ft with only about 4% voltage drop, which is more than adequate for those loads.


If you later decide to add heating or hot water, it’ll probably need to be done with gas appliances.


The RV receptacle is already wired — just make sure it’s verified as correct:

• #8 or #6 AWG copper
• Two hots, a neutral, and an equipment ground

At the pole barn you’ll need to back-feed a main breaker and drive an additional ground rod to meet code.

 

[HuntHarder]

To answer your question in the sense you asked it, I would run #4 quadplex and direct bury it. Just know it's limitations. At that distance, you are probably (didn't look it up) de-rated to 50ish amp circuit. Adding in the wire size from panel to Rv outlet, you are probably down to 30ish amps. Based on your wants, I am sure that will fit your needs.

As you know, the best way would be conduit and a larger Sub panel. If you are not wanting that, the quadplex wire I mentioned is for direct bury. We used to direct bury for every house in the Utility field. 20 years later, we are replacing it or repairing secondary faults often, depending on load and soil. Terminating it in the Rv plug will be difficult. It might be worth it, to replace that with a small 6 position panel. You will need a 4 wire to that RV outlet ( I am assuming you have that already and it's not a 3 wire.)

Not my preferred method, but given your parameters, this should work for your needs. Just know, you are limiting yourself to lights and basic 15-20a outlets.

 

[BLJ]

I’d wire the pole barn lights and receptacles the way you want.
I’d wire in the male end of an extension cord to a receptacle box and plug into a generator when you need power.
The inverters are quiet and can be bought for about the same money as the wire to get from the RV plug to the barn.
And you also have a generator.

 

[rbaney]

Wire Size calculation based on 30 Amp load and 200 Feet with 3% voltage drop. The only difference between Cooper and AL for calculation is the R value Cu=12.9 and Al=21.2.

CM=Circular Mil

CM= 2 x12.9x30x200
.03x240


CM= 154,000
7.2


CM= 21,500

CM of 21,500= 6 AWG Copper
CM of 35,334 =4 AWG Aluminum

Hope that helps.