DIY Stryker Clone

WoodBow

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Jul 21, 2015
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When kifaru released the stryker, i liked it immediately. The price seemed very reasonable and i almost just bought one. But my frugality and diy spirit won once again.

Just like every project for me, design seems to be the most time consuming part. I have grown to prefer to design every single part on poster board as a full size pattern, including seam allowance. Then i have all those patterns if i want to make another or if i want to tweak any particular part for another design. While i have done some pretty advanced builds in the past, i had never included zippered pockets in any of them. Adding a hose port for a water bladder was interesting as well. So it was fun to expand my skill set a little further and figure out how to accomplish new things.

I got most of the basic design elements and measurements off of kifarus site. Some details are not showcased so i reached out in the stryker thread and another member was kind enough to send some pics of specific areas of his stryker.

Kifaru uses a strap and ladderloc to secure the bottom of the panel to the frame. That system is a bit of a pain to me so i opted for a velcro strap system there. It is fast and effective.

I will probably build a 22 inch frame and primarily use this for local whitetail hunting. I think it will also be perfect for some truck based hunts that we do in NM. Plenty of room for day gear but still has great meat hauling capabilities.

I mocked up these straps with stuff i already had. I need to restock on most stuff so a order from hudson needs to happen and i will get appropriate buckles then.

This is a 30L dry bag by the way.

I like the look of the bag a lot and figured i could make it an even more versatile system by building some removable shoulder straps and a way to stow the panel. Now it can be a gym bag or carry on or whatever i need it to be.

I am very pleased with all areas of the build except my dang edge binding. It is just plain dog crap. (I did my best to not show the problem areas in pics) I have a cheap binder and figured out how to set it up appropriately after i was already done. I really need a right angle binder and they are about $100 for my 206. I might as well order one with all the money i saved not buying this from kifaru, right?

I hope you guys enjoyed and get inspired to make something yourself or to strive to make your next project a little better.
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Mt Al

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Dec 16, 2017
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Very nice work! I think you'll love a right angle binder. No matter if it's straight in or right angle, it will take time to adjust, fiddle, fuuuke around with it and your technique to get a good cover and have your stitching cover the seam allowance. Frankly, the binding you have showing looks pretty nice.

MOAR!!
 

colersu22

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Apr 10, 2016
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Wa
I like the option for it to be a stand alone pack, nice work as always on your DIY projects.
 
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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Jul 21, 2015
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One more thing i forgot to mention and that i havent added yet. The pics the member sent me showed a part in the sling portion of the panel that was folded and then sewn at the edes. Took me a minute to figure out why and then i realized what a brilliant idea it was. It causes the sling to form a cupped shape to help things, such as a rear quarter, stay put better and not walk out the sides.
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fatlander

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Feb 11, 2016
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Fantastic work!!!

You have almost nailed my main gripe with all load shelf/sling type packs for hauling tree stands.

If you were to figure a way to separate the bottom of the panel from the bag, I’d pay you in a heart beat for a treestand hauler. I think if you were to sew in tab loops for buckles or k-clips between the backside of the bag and the underside of the panel, you’d have a winner.

All of these bags, including the striker leave stands/ground blinds way too high above your head. It makes getting through the whitetail woods quietly and easily basically impossible. My personal opinion is you would get enough support from horizontal compression straps (especially run through the stand) that the lower portion of the load sling isn’t necessary for tree stands and ground blinds.




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WoodBow

WoodBow

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Fantastic work!!!

You have almost nailed my main gripe with all load shelf/sling type packs for hauling tree stands.

If you were to figure a way to separate the bottom of the panel from the bag, I’d pay you in a heart beat for a treestand hauler. I think if you were to sew in tab loops for buckles or k-clips between the backside of the bag and the underside of the panel, you’d have a winner.

All of these bags, including the striker leave stands/ground blinds way too high above your head. It makes getting through the whitetail woods quietly and easily basically impossible. My personal opinion is you would get enough support from horizontal compression straps (especially run through the stand) that the lower portion of the load sling isn’t necessary for tree stands and ground blinds.




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I considered going that route. The only reason i did not is because this method is stronger. In the event that i find a need to put 100+ lbs in it, that sewn seam is much stronger than a couple of buckles. However, like you said, with adequate compression a good bit of stress can be relieved from that junction.

I also hate crap sticking up over my head. Going to a saddle has solved most of that.

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WoodBow

WoodBow

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@fatlander this is it with my diy sticks that i run. I typically attach my saddle platform to the outside of the sticks. The top stick has a sling attached to it soi can i have sticks slung across my body when climbing.

I get to tree, remove sticks, sling them over shoulder across body, and pull sticks off as i climb and am ready for them. They are held together by their 1/8" amsteel daisy chain with a bit of shockcord on the end of it. Platform is attached to the last stick so i pull it off after that stick is hung.
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Tartan

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Great work as usual woodbow.

almost pulled the trigger on a 206 the other day, just so little free time to use it at the moment.
 
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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Great work as usual woodbow.

almost pulled the trigger on a 206 the other day, just so little free time to use it at the moment.
Do it man. You will not regret it. I know all about that free time struggle. This was one of my most enjoyable projects so far because i was not in a hurry. Usually im trying to get something done last minute for a trip. Now i dont have any set plans until september, unless i draw an oryx tag. So i just chipped away at it here and there as i had a few moments free. It was a pleasant change of pace.

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fatlander

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@fatlander this is it with my diy sticks that i run. I typically attach my saddle platform to the outside of the sticks. The top stick has a sling attached to it soi can i have sticks slung across my body when climbing.

I get to tree, remove sticks, sling them over shoulder across body, and pull sticks off as i climb and am ready for them. They are held together by their 1/8" amsteel daisy chain with a bit of shockcord on the end of it. Platform is attached to the last stick so i pull it off after that stick is hung.
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That is fantastic work there. I wish I had the ingenuity to build diy gear like you have here!


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slick

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Do you have more info on your sticks? Those look slick. I’m thinking of doing some elk hunting with a saddle this year on pinch points, wallows and the like and want to run a saddle.


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WoodBow

WoodBow

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Do you have more info on your sticks? Those look slick. I’m thinking of doing some elk hunting with a saddle this year on pinch points, wallows and the like and want to run a saddle.


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I made them out of 1/2" emt tubing. Bends were made with a plain ole manual emt bender. Step distance averages around 20". Obviously they have to be varied to stack well. First set i made, i notched the cross pieces to fit. After that i decided its easier to just flatten the ends in a vise. Makes welding easier too. I built a basic jig out of wood to hold the vertical pieces at the approriate angle while the steps are welded. Chain links were welded to each side about 1/3 from the top. Left side os a full link. Right side has a notch cut out of it. Amsteel daisy chain is hitched to the side with the solid link. Rope wraps around tree, around inside of right side, and hooks on the right side chain link. If the daisy chain needa to be taken up some i just wrap it around the upright again before hooking it up onnthe link. I think i made my daisy chain gaps 3" apart. Base coat in whatever dull spray paint and then i wrap with vet wrap to help quiet down accidental metal on metal contact.

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WoodBow

WoodBow

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Forgot to mention that i have been down the rabbit hole a bit on sticks amd you can build them slightly lighter than this but you cant build them cheaper. These are pretty much dead nuts 2#s a piece complete. A piece of emt will build a complete stick and its only a few bucks. These are way stouter than i would have thought before building some.

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Macegl

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Dec 2, 2016
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Excellent work and inspiring as usual! I need to get back in the sewing groove, but have had alot of other projects lately.
 
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What are you thoughts on using Xpac for the cargo sling and back of pack?

Also where do you source your materials from? I have been looking at Seattle fabric and rocky woods
 
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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What are you thoughts on using Xpac for the cargo sling and back of pack?

Also where do you source your materials from? I have been looking at Seattle fabric and rocky woods
I think it would work great. Cordura probably has a little better abrasion resistance so just depends on what you'll be hauling.

I buy almost all of my fabric off ebay as "2nds". It is about half price and free shipping. But you won't find xpac like that. I order lots of stuff from rockywoods.

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