Cold Bow 2025.... QnA Thread

Finished it up today! Decided to try and see how I shoot in some wind versus wait for calmer weather. Wind did die down more than weatherman predicted so that helped. This challenge can really humble a guy!

Thanks gentlemen for putting this on again this year. Can't wait to get more practice in and look forward to more cold bow challenges!
 
Overall a poor showing on my part but lots of great learning in the process. Ended up going 0/3 and completely missed the target on 2/3 shots. I suppose that’s what I get for trying to use a new and unproven setup.

For the hive mind - I’m using very old arrows that are borderline underspined for my bow and on the lighter side, which really showed when trying to shoot broadheads. Arrows are GT XTH 7595 (8.9 GPI) cut to 28.5” with 100g points for a total weight of 405 grains. With my 30” draw length and a draw weight of ~65 pounds, that puts my arrow speed at 298 fps.

Bow is well tuned for these arrows with field points out to 60 yards but adding broadheads for the cold bow challenge caused POI to shift up 6” and left about 4” at 40 yards. In the photo below the two lower arrows are hits on middle dot with field points and the broad head is high-left.

I’ve read that speeds > 280 FPS become much more challenging to tune broadheads and this is the first time I’ve ever had that kind of velocity as my old bow shot these arrows around 275 FPS due to shorter draw length. Am I correct in assuming that a longer, heavier spined arrow (say 500 grains total weight) with more weight FOC (current arrow is 8% FOC) going about 270-280 FPS will fly better and be easier to tune?IMG_0416.jpeg
 
Overall a poor showing on my part but lots of great learning in the process. Ended up going 0/3 and completely missed the target on 2/3 shots. I suppose that’s what I get for trying to use a new and unproven setup.

For the hive mind - I’m using very old arrows that are borderline underspined for my bow and on the lighter side, which really showed when trying to shoot broadheads. Arrows are GT XTH 7595 (8.9 GPI) cut to 28.5” with 100g points for a total weight of 405 grains. With my 30” draw length and a draw weight of ~65 pounds, that puts my arrow speed at 298 fps.

Bow is well tuned for these arrows with field points out to 60 yards but adding broadheads for the cold bow challenge caused POI to shift up 6” and left about 4” at 40 yards. In the photo below the two lower arrows are hits on middle dot with field points and the broad head is high-left.

I’ve read that speeds > 280 FPS become much more challenging to tune broadheads and this is the first time I’ve ever had that kind of velocity as my old bow shot these arrows around 275 FPS due to shorter draw length. Am I correct in assuming that a longer, heavier spined arrow (say 500 grains total weight) with more weight FOC (current arrow is 8% FOC) going about 270-280 FPS will fly better and be easier to tune?View attachment 879832

Listening to this might give you some things to think about when choosing an arrow.

Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk
 

Listening to this might give you some things to think about when choosing an arrow.

Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk
Thank you for sharing, I just saw that on home page and will try to give it a listen this week. Just want to be sure if I upgrade arrows I choose something more future proof and easier to tune with broadheads.
 
Thank you for sharing, I just saw that on home page and will try to give it a listen this week. Just want to be sure if I upgrade arrows I choose something more future proof and easier to tune with broadheads.
Your shooting basically the same arrow I'm shooting GT 300 with 100 grain head but my draw length is longer putting me at 289 fps.

I'm moving to victory rip tko for more wieght up front and less wind profile but mostly because I want to change things up.

Most setups can get a fix blade flying good between 280 and 295 fps problems are more likely over 300fps.



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Your shooting basically the same arrow I'm shooting GT 300 with 100 grain head but my draw length is longer putting me at 289 fps.

I'm moving to victory rip tko for more wieght up front and less wind profile but mostly because I want to change things up.

Most setups can get a fix blade flying good between 280 and 295 fps problems are more likely over 300fps.



Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk

So that’s the funny part about these old GT 7595’s, they are 8.9 GPI which is essentially a 340 spine. If I had a 300 spine (9.3 GPI based on GT website) like you, I think they would be fine. I’m betting your arrows are about 15 grains heavier than mine which may also explain the speed difference.
 
Overall a poor showing on my part but lots of great learning in the process. Ended up going 0/3 and completely missed the target on 2/3 shots. I suppose that’s what I get for trying to use a new and unproven setup.

For the hive mind - I’m using very old arrows that are borderline underspined for my bow and on the lighter side, which really showed when trying to shoot broadheads. Arrows are GT XTH 7595 (8.9 GPI) cut to 28.5” with 100g points for a total weight of 405 grains. With my 30” draw length and a draw weight of ~65 pounds, that puts my arrow speed at 298 fps.

Bow is well tuned for these arrows with field points out to 60 yards but adding broadheads for the cold bow challenge caused POI to shift up 6” and left about 4” at 40 yards. In the photo below the two lower arrows are hits on middle dot with field points and the broad head is high-left.

I’ve read that speeds > 280 FPS become much more challenging to tune broadheads and this is the first time I’ve ever had that kind of velocity as my old bow shot these arrows around 275 FPS due to shorter draw length. Am I correct in assuming that a longer, heavier spined arrow (say 500 grains total weight) with more weight FOC (current arrow is 8% FOC) going about 270-280 FPS will fly better and be easier to tune?View attachment 879832
What bow? When you say well tuned I assume timed and bullets through paper? Last year all summer I thought I was a paper tuned, was getting bullets through paper, and IW broadheads (minimal drag) were grouping with FPs. It wasn’t until I tried a 3 blade fixed broadhead that I realized I wasnt perfectly tuned. I went ahead and BH tuned for the 3 blade (minor adjustments), and it maintained a bullet hole though paper and both IW and various 3 blades heads now hit in the same spot (assuming I can release a good arrow). Point is, you might need very fine micro tune to get that BH to group with FP. Very slight move rest down, resight the housing, and try again. Could also be a rest timing issue depending on the rest….? Im sure a slower arrow could be easier to tune. I’m at 272-274 fps
 
Your shooting basically the same arrow I'm shooting GT 300 with 100 grain head but my draw length is longer putting me at 289 fps.

I'm moving to victory rip tko for more wieght up front and less wind profile but mostly because I want to change things up.

Most setups can get a fix blade flying good between 280 and 295 fps problems are more likely over 300fps.



Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk

You might take a look at some Whitewater Archery New Ground Arrows, I just got some and have yet to shoot them but they’re a “cheaper” 204 that’s lighter so I can run a lighter arrow with similar foc and everything else. Hard to find lighter arrows at our draw length/spine needs haha


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As always thank you to all the Roksliders who have a hand putting this thing on and to all the sponsors of it. The CBC is always that start of my practicing season. Just hard to get out and shoot with weather and colder temps so I tend to take a couple months of after hunting season. Curious what you guys do to practice for tighter groupings?
 
Overall a poor showing on my part but lots of great learning in the process. Ended up going 0/3 and completely missed the target on 2/3 shots. I suppose that’s what I get for trying to use a new and unproven setup.

For the hive mind - I’m using very old arrows that are borderline underspined for my bow and on the lighter side, which really showed when trying to shoot broadheads. Arrows are GT XTH 7595 (8.9 GPI) cut to 28.5” with 100g points for a total weight of 405 grains. With my 30” draw length and a draw weight of ~65 pounds, that puts my arrow speed at 298 fps.

Bow is well tuned for these arrows with field points out to 60 yards but adding broadheads for the cold bow challenge caused POI to shift up 6” and left about 4” at 40 yards. In the photo below the two lower arrows are hits on middle dot with field points and the broad head is high-left.

I’ve read that speeds > 280 FPS become much more challenging to tune broadheads and this is the first time I’ve ever had that kind of velocity as my old bow shot these arrows around 275 FPS due to shorter draw length. Am I correct in assuming that a longer, heavier spined arrow (say 500 grains total weight) with more weight FOC (current arrow is 8% FOC) going about 270-280 FPS will fly better and be easier to tune?View attachment 879832

You are weak on your spine with a 340 shaft, can probably get it to work, but the easy button is going to a 300 spine.

Cut another 1/2" off the shaft length, can normally get 2" if not a little more short of the actual DL.

500 gr shaft if you are currently 405 is gonna drop you a little more than 30 fps. So you will be in the 260's, personally I'd want to be a bit faster. A 300 spine GT hunter is gonna be 11.4 grs heavier approximately, so that with going to 125 heads or a weighted insert to gain yourself around 30-35 grs would be what I'd recommend to someone. Just because tuning is easier around that 285 mark.
 
You are weak on your spine with a 340 shaft, can probably get it to work, but the easy button is going to a 300 spine.

Cut another 1/2" off the shaft length, can normally get 2" if not a little more short of the actual DL.

500 gr shaft if you are currently 405 is gonna drop you a little more than 30 fps. So you will be in the 260's, personally I'd want to be a bit faster. A 300 spine GT hunter is gonna be 11.4 grs heavier approximately, so that with going to 125 heads or a weighted insert to gain yourself around 30-35 grs would be what I'd recommend to someone. Just because tuning is easier around that 285 mark.

Thank you, and others who have chimed in. That’s exactly what I’m thinking, 340’s are marginal and 300’s would be more appropriate. After reading a bit more since my initial post I was thinking if I could go with a 300 shaft arrow that’s comes in around 450g complete weight that should be about right. It’s nice to see someone with your level of experience agrees. Makes me think I’m ready to pull the trigger on some new arrows soon.
 
Cut another 1/2" off the shaft length, can normally get 2" if not a little more short of the actual DL.

To this point specifically, I swear my first miss on the CBC was because I got psyched out seeing the broadhead sitting above the shelf rather than beyond it and couldn’t help but think about how close it was to my knuckles as the shot released. I think I’d like to keep that extra 1-2” to have the broadhead just past the shelf (and my hand). Am I crazy to want a bit of extra length and are the downsides to doing so if I still hit my target arrow weight?
 
To this point specifically, I swear my first miss on the CBC was because I got psyched out seeing the broadhead sitting above the shelf rather than beyond it and couldn’t help but think about how close it was to my knuckles as the shot released. I think I’d like to keep that extra 1-2” to have the broadhead just past the shelf (and my hand). Am I crazy to want a bit of extra length and are the downsides to doing so if I still hit my target arrow weight?

That's upto the individual.

I shoot a short arrow, and large fixed heads with an arrow that's generally cut about the berger hole. In order to have the broadhead clear your fingers, you need like 4 more inches, depending on how long your fingers are. But getting the head out in front of the riser, doesn't clear your index finger if you put it in the way.

I think arrows are more forgiving when they are cut around the berger, that's something hard to proove, so it might just be in my head. But a bunch of shaft past the rest support with wings on it can't be real good.

If you aren't comfortable with the broadhead over your hand, use a longer shaft. That's going to be better than your mind being occupied with thoughts of loosing digits while shooting instead of on the target.

Way longer, and you will need heavier spine again.
 
shortening my arrows has made it easier to get consistent broad head flight. I figured after thousands of shots where the fletching never touched my fingers it was pretty safe to assume that i wasn't going to suddenly get myself hurt by something that is lower profile than the vanes following the same trajectory. there are scars on my left index finger, but none of them are from archery.
 
Thanks to all of the sponsors, Robby and staff for putting this on again.
Finished up today.
I've made major changes to my arrow set up this year (lighter-faster), add a couple of # to my draw weight and thought I had my sight tape dialed in. While my grouping is acceptable for 50 yards (for me), I still need to work on my tuning, sight tape and pin location.
IMG_0959.jpgIMG_0960.jpg
 
Thought it was going to get my third day in this week…didn’t happen. Will hopefully finish with day 3 on Sunday. Enjoying seeing all the updates
 
Thanks Rokslide for another challenge this year , its always fun to see everyones setup and targets.
Well I shot thru paper yesterday and I have a tear nock left.
Its about a 2 " tear, too much to move the rest.
I had 60 lb limbs installed a couple weeks ago so back to the shop and see whats going on.
I dont think its me but I want them to shoot it and see what they get.
 
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