Cock feather orientation

archp625

WKR
Joined
Jan 17, 2018
Location
St. Joseph, Missouri
I am just getting started in the trad world. I got everything I need including an Easton Legacy arrow test kit to figure out what arrow spine/point weight shoot the best out of my bow. Once I get that figured out, I will fletch with feathers. What orientation of the cock feather should I shoot off the shelf? I have seen everything from it doesn't matter, cock feather facing away from the riser and cock feather facing the riser.
 
I am just getting started in the trad world. I got everything I need including an Easton Legacy arrow test kit to figure out what arrow spine/point weight shoot the best out of my bow. Once I get that figured out, I will fletch with feathers. What orientation of the cock feather should I shoot off the shelf? I have seen everything from it doesn't matter, cock feather facing away from the riser and cock feather facing the riser.
Which ever way gives you the best flight... Don't mean to be a smart ass, but feather length, profile, shelf width, side plate design, how clean your release is, etc, will all affect how much contact you get.

I've had some set ups that shoot best with a "cock feather" straight towards the shelf, others the opposite. I would say that normally it's gonna be away from the shelf (9 oclock) to maybe 7 oclock. That's where I would start and then fine tune from there.
 
I fletch my arrows so that the cock feather [3 fletch] is out and slightly up. I make them the perfect distance from the end of the shaft to just touch my nose as a secondary anchor point.

My bottom fletch ends up being partially in the crease at the riser.
 
I've always had good luck with my cock feather being 'in', as in, pointed at about 3 o'clock when the arrow is on the string, for a right handed shooter. I've never felt the need to mess around with my cock feather being in different positions. That doesn't mean it's the best way either; it's just what I do.
 
Which ever way gives you the best flight... Don't mean to be a smart ass, but feather length, profile, shelf width, side plate design, how clean your release is, etc, will all affect how much contact you get.

I've had some set ups that shoot best with a "cock feather" straight towards the shelf, others the opposite. I would say that normally it's gonna be away from the shelf (9 oclock) to maybe 7 oclock. That's where I would start and then fine tune from there.
Don't feel bad at all. I have read a ton and watched a ton of videos and have seen it all. This is good info to know. Once I find what shoots the best, I obviously need to be consistent.
 
I just 4-fletch so I don’t have to worry about it 😂
You still have to worry about it. Still need to make sure your not getting heavy contact. S

But once set, you are correct, you don't have to worry about which direction you nock your arrow. I shoot 4 fletch these days for that reason. One less thing that can go wrong in the heat of the moment.
 
You still have to worry about it. Still need to make sure your not getting heavy contact. S

But once set, you are correct, you don't have to worry about which direction you nock your arrow. I shoot 4 fletch these days for that reason. One less thing that can go wrong in the heat of the moment.
That is true I suppose. I use a 2 or 3 inch feather or vane, fletch them straight at the 75/105 configuration, and it works great for me on all my bows.
 
For sure. I don’t want to make it sound like magic, because it does take a little setup work, but I vastly prefer 4 fletch.

I do think 4 fletch hits a point of diminished returns when you use big fletching though.
 
I tried 4 fletch for the reasons mentioned....but went back to 3 fletch for that secondary anchor as it makes me a lot more consistent and accurate.

It took me fletching a few different arrows to get the distance from the back of the arrow just perfect....but when I did, -Dang!- my accuracy went up.
 
I do three fletch with 3” or 4” feathers on my Doug firs. I can shoot with cock feather out or in depending on what the bow prefers but that has always worked well. I prefer it out due to the way I aim it makes it easier for me
 
All good info guys. Appreciate that. My initial arrow was last night at 7 yards. just bare shafts and playing with different spine and tip weights. I have more confirmation to do but I think I am close to these specs:

30" Easton Legacy 400 spine
150 grains up front
16% FOC
9.5 grains/lbs.
165 fps
Total arrow weight 445

What are your thoughts on what I am thinking I will go with. Please remember I will shoot multiple days to confirm its the combo my bow likes. But man this is so fun.
 
All good info guys. Appreciate that. My initial arrow was last night at 7 yards. just bare shafts and playing with different spine and tip weights. I have more confirmation to do but I think I am close to these specs:

30" Easton Legacy 400 spine
150 grains up front
16% FOC
9.5 grains/lbs.
165 fps
Total arrow weight 445

What are your thoughts on what I am thinking I will go with. Please remember I will shoot multiple days to confirm its the combo my bow likes. But man this is so fun.
Seems a little stiff for a 45# bow depending on draw length, but if the arrow flies correctly then dont sweat it.
 
Seems a little stiff for a 45# bow depending on draw length, but if the arrow flies correctly then dont sweat it.
Thanks for the info. I will say this. I will get some good bare shaft flight then a couple not good. I am still working on my form and consistency. I plan of doing some work tonight with the 500 spine arrow. How much weight up front would you recommend?
 
I’ve tried them in all positions of the clock. What worked best for me was putting bare shafts in the bathtub and marking the downward side of the carbon shaft in the water with a sharpie. That would always be my indexed side of the shaft that was closest to the strike plate. Then I would three fletch them. Never had an issue.


I would suppose with today’s technological advancements finding the heavier side of the arrow is no longer necessary. I’m sure they are all equal now a days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
All good info guys. Appreciate that. My initial arrow was last night at 7 yards. just bare shafts and playing with different spine and tip weights. I have more confirmation to do but I think I am close to these specs:

30" Easton Legacy 400 spine
150 grains up front
16% FOC
9.5 grains/lbs.
165 fps
Total arrow weight 445

What are your thoughts on what I am thinking I will go with. Please remember I will shoot multiple days to confirm its the combo my bow likes. But man this is so fun.
If the bareshafts fly good it's likely correct. However I'm a big believer in shooting bareshafts a bit father back. If they fly true at 25 yards you should be good with fletched shafts.
 
If the bareshafts fly good it's likely correct. However I'm a big believer in shooting bareshafts a bit father back. If they fly true at 25 yards you should be good with fletched shafts.
I plan on shooting further this weekend. I think 8 yards it a good place to start, but need more data at distance like you mentioned. I really do appreciate all the help form this group. I have had a compound in my hand for 28 years and feel like I am a good shot. I now feel like I'm relearning how to walk and I'm loving it.
 
I plan on shooting further this weekend. I think 8 yards it a good place to start, but need more data at distance like you mentioned. I really do appreciate all the help form this group. I have had a compound in my hand for 28 years and feel like I am a good shot. I now feel like I'm relearning how to walk and I'm loving it.
I fully ditched the compound about 10 years ago. Was back and forth between compound and recurve for the 10 years before that.

At this point I don't even own a compound and will never go back. Good luck on your journey and keep the questions coming. Trad archery is a very welcoming group of folks.
 
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