Changing up Arrow build for Caribou

[bigbassfish]

Lets talk broadheads and arrows, the only ones I've ever shot are the QAD Exodus 125gr. My 2023 black bear was a complete pass through at 30 yards, ran about 10 yards and dropped, I couldn't be happier with the way they performed, but i had a hell of a time trying to tune them to hit with my FPs.

Granted, I had only just started shooting seriously for about a year prior, but over the summer I had gotten to where I was confident in my FP out to 60, i could never get the QAD to group well further than 50 or so. Even at 20 yards I was struggling to get them to group together.

Should i start messing around with mechanicals? I really like the simplicity of a fixed head and having one less thing to go wrong, but it sounds like wind and distance are the two biggest challenges bowhunting the tundra. Currently shooting Hoyt Ventum 33 30"DL 65lb, QAD Integrate rest, and MBG sight. Arrows are 465gr Gold Tip Hunter Pros, but I think I want to try micro diameter.

I spent probably three weeks trying to get my FP and BH to group together and eventually ran out of time before the season opened so I just moved my sight and called it good.

 

[Bump79]

There's a lot of bad info out there for broadhead tuning unfortunately. A broadhead tune is the same thing as a paper tune or a bareshaft. Some are just more sensitive.

If I was going on a caribou hunt I would prioritize wind drift. I wouldn't hesitate to use a mechanical but you still need to get your tune straightened out.

If I was you ( and my specs are nearly the same) I'd shoot a micro or a 5mm shaft with upgraded components. Nothing wrong with the Exodus.

I've been building Whitewater Archery New Ground 300 shafts with a 50 grain aluminum HIT and 12 grain VPA footer for applications like this. I'd top them off with a Q2i Predator-X vane in 3 fletch.

 

[bigbassfish]

So i went down the paper tuning hole and honestly don't know what to think. I built a paper tuner and spent a week doing nothing but chasing a perfect bullet hole, got to where i was consistent and my BH still weren't hitting to the same POI.

I went to the pro shop to consider having my cam spacers adjusted, but we went and shot on his paper tuner and same thing, still perfect bullet holes. He showed me how changing my hand pressure would kick the tear left or right, but man it felt very finicky to me, and almost counterintuitive.

Should i be adjusting my hand pressure to correct tears, or do what is most natural and consistent for hand pressure, and then tune to that?? I've also heard the Ventum can be a pain to tune, could part of this issue be over spined arrows? 300 spine and i started shooting at 60lb hoping to get up to 70lb, but I slipped in a creek last September and torn my labrum, so my shooting had to take a pause for close to 8 months.

As far as wind drift goes, would i see improvement in just going to a smaller shaft, even with the Exodus? or would this be in combo with a good mech? For what it's worth, i'm currently running 3 2" blazer vanes straight fletch, nockturnal nocks, and the standard 11gr gt insert. i had thought about trying 50gr inserts but ran out of time before season opened.

 

[Billy Goat]

Did you try swept blades?



You are shooting the easy button, I wouldn't change it myself.

 

[NXTZ]

Bigbassfish, as far as your hand position I’d say find the grip that’s comfortable and repeatable for you, and tune to that. If you aren’t married to a certain grip/still trying to find what you and your bow like, then absolutely play with your grip/pressure and see if you can be repeatable with the grip that gets you bullet holes.

FWIW, my vtm 34 at 29” 70lb tunes well with a 27.5” 300 spine axis with 175 total up front (50gr brass and 125gr head).

 

[Blockcaver]

Put some helical or offset on the vanes....I don't like straight vanes for controlling broadheads, especially fixed heads. Your 300 spine shafts should work fine at your draw length and weight, I would not drop to 330's at your draw length.

I shoot a 29" draw and 65# bow I've shot 471 4mm gr 330 Easton Carbon Injexions using 100 gr NAP Spitfires (3-blade mechanicals) and replaceable 3-blade100 gr Rocky Mt Titan Titaniums for years. Both tuned good and flew with field points, but so did 5mm Easton Full Metal jackets in 260 spine with heavy components bringing total arrow weight to around 660 grains when I built a set of buffalo arrows.

Caribou are thin skinned. I'd shoot a mechanical when hunting them, but heck I shoot a mechanical for all North American game...better accuracy in the field with wind, awkward shooting positions, downhill, etc Also better blood trails in my experience due to the larger cut diameter.

Good luck!

 

[bigbassfish]

I haven't tried the swept blades mostly because I know they are outlawed in some states and I'd rather just have one head to do it all, plus i've heard iffy things on how much difference it even makes.

On the note of legality, I know Montana has a maximum of 80% let off, my Hoyt is currently at 85% and it's all I've ever tried. While i'm messing with my grip, should i go ahead and change the mods to 75? How enforced is this? I've thought about turning it down anyways, as it seems i get the tightest groups when I'm really pulling into the back wall and pushing with the front hand, like I'm trying to spread the bow apart and with the current let off, it seems like it would be easy to get lazy about the back tension.

I am definitely still a rookie so any and all advice would be welcome!

 

[bigbassfish]

I always get a little bit of a chuckle thinking back on how much stressing and perfecting i did the summer before my bear hunt, and the first time i ever drew back on a live animal, 30 yards away on the ground with me, i was shaking so bad it felt like all my preparation was out the window, and in that moment, it was either meant to be or it wasn't lol