Changing up Arrow build for Caribou

[bigbassfish]

Lets talk broadheads and arrows, the only ones I've ever shot are the QAD Exodus 125gr. My 2023 black bear was a complete pass through at 30 yards, ran about 10 yards and dropped, I couldn't be happier with the way they performed, but i had a hell of a time trying to tune them to hit with my FPs.

Granted, I had only just started shooting seriously for about a year prior, but over the summer I had gotten to where I was confident in my FP out to 60, i could never get the QAD to group well further than 50 or so. Even at 20 yards I was struggling to get them to group together.

Should i start messing around with mechanicals? I really like the simplicity of a fixed head and having one less thing to go wrong, but it sounds like wind and distance are the two biggest challenges bowhunting the tundra. Currently shooting Hoyt Ventum 33 30"DL 65lb, QAD Integrate rest, and MBG sight. Arrows are 465gr Gold Tip Hunter Pros, but I think I want to try micro diameter.

I spent probably three weeks trying to get my FP and BH to group together and eventually ran out of time before the season opened so I just moved my sight and called it good.

 

[Bump79]

There's a lot of bad info out there for broadhead tuning unfortunately. A broadhead tune is the same thing as a paper tune or a bareshaft. Some are just more sensitive.

If I was going on a caribou hunt I would prioritize wind drift. I wouldn't hesitate to use a mechanical but you still need to get your tune straightened out.

If I was you ( and my specs are nearly the same) I'd shoot a micro or a 5mm shaft with upgraded components. Nothing wrong with the Exodus.

I've been building Whitewater Archery New Ground 300 shafts with a 50 grain aluminum HIT and 12 grain VPA footer for applications like this. I'd top them off with a Q2i Predator-X vane in 3 fletch.

 

[bigbassfish]

So i went down the paper tuning hole and honestly don't know what to think. I built a paper tuner and spent a week doing nothing but chasing a perfect bullet hole, got to where i was consistent and my BH still weren't hitting to the same POI.

I went to the pro shop to consider having my cam spacers adjusted, but we went and shot on his paper tuner and same thing, still perfect bullet holes. He showed me how changing my hand pressure would kick the tear left or right, but man it felt very finicky to me, and almost counterintuitive.

Should i be adjusting my hand pressure to correct tears, or do what is most natural and consistent for hand pressure, and then tune to that?? I've also heard the Ventum can be a pain to tune, could part of this issue be over spined arrows? 300 spine and i started shooting at 60lb hoping to get up to 70lb, but I slipped in a creek last September and torn my labrum, so my shooting had to take a pause for close to 8 months.

As far as wind drift goes, would i see improvement in just going to a smaller shaft, even with the Exodus? or would this be in combo with a good mech? For what it's worth, i'm currently running 3 2" blazer vanes straight fletch, nockturnal nocks, and the standard 11gr gt insert. i had thought about trying 50gr inserts but ran out of time before season opened.

 

[Billy Goat]

Did you try swept blades?



You are shooting the easy button, I wouldn't change it myself.

 

[NXTZ]

Bigbassfish, as far as your hand position I’d say find the grip that’s comfortable and repeatable for you, and tune to that. If you aren’t married to a certain grip/still trying to find what you and your bow like, then absolutely play with your grip/pressure and see if you can be repeatable with the grip that gets you bullet holes.

FWIW, my vtm 34 at 29” 70lb tunes well with a 27.5” 300 spine axis with 175 total up front (50gr brass and 125gr head).

 

[Blockcaver]

Put some helical or offset on the vanes....I don't like straight vanes for controlling broadheads, especially fixed heads. Your 300 spine shafts should work fine at your draw length and weight, I would not drop to 330's at your draw length.

I shoot a 29" draw and 65# bow I've shot 471 4mm gr 330 Easton Carbon Injexions using 100 gr NAP Spitfires (3-blade mechanicals) and replaceable 3-blade100 gr Rocky Mt Titan Titaniums for years. Both tuned good and flew with field points, but so did 5mm Easton Full Metal jackets in 260 spine with heavy components bringing total arrow weight to around 660 grains when I built a set of buffalo arrows.

Caribou are thin skinned. I'd shoot a mechanical when hunting them, but heck I shoot a mechanical for all North American game...better accuracy in the field with wind, awkward shooting positions, downhill, etc Also better blood trails in my experience due to the larger cut diameter.

Good luck!

 

[bigbassfish]

I haven't tried the swept blades mostly because I know they are outlawed in some states and I'd rather just have one head to do it all, plus i've heard iffy things on how much difference it even makes.

On the note of legality, I know Montana has a maximum of 80% let off, my Hoyt is currently at 85% and it's all I've ever tried. While i'm messing with my grip, should i go ahead and change the mods to 75? How enforced is this? I've thought about turning it down anyways, as it seems i get the tightest groups when I'm really pulling into the back wall and pushing with the front hand, like I'm trying to spread the bow apart and with the current let off, it seems like it would be easy to get lazy about the back tension.

I am definitely still a rookie so any and all advice would be welcome!

 

[bigbassfish]

I always get a little bit of a chuckle thinking back on how much stressing and perfecting i did the summer before my bear hunt, and the first time i ever drew back on a live animal, 30 yards away on the ground with me, i was shaking so bad it felt like all my preparation was out the window, and in that moment, it was either meant to be or it wasn't lol

 

[dtrkyman]

More holding weight is always good so long as you can handle it, more string tension makes it more forgiving and less sensitive to torque.

Broadhead tuning is the never ending debate in archery, the swept blades would definitely be more forgiving.

The less surface area the better for broadhead accuracy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[big44a4]

+1 tube your bow to your repeatable grip. Also paper is just the starting point you don’t hunt with a FP.

I’ve heard others don’t get good flight with the full QAD. I’d try the evolution outdoors Hyde best of both worlds. Flys great to 110 for me.

 

[Beendare]

Exodus is one of the easiest BHs to tune, Buddies have no problem getting them to group at 70y plus.

Some good tuning sticky’s on AT

Paper tuning FPs is the 1/2 way point…keep at it. Once you know the process, you are golden

 

[bigbassfish]

This has been encouraging, I am going to go ahead and switch to 75% let off now since I haven't shot in a month so maybe I won't notice. I'm going to look at this as somewhat starting from scratch, even though my bow was decently tuned last season.

I guess the first order of business would be to start shooting enough to where I'm getting tight groups at 20, and then walk back tune with FP to 60. This would done through adjusting the rest? From there, I could either bareshaft or BH tune at 20, and work back, hopefully only requiring micro adjustments to the rest? Am I missing anything?

 

[doc holiday13]

Your arrow seems (to me at least) to be adequate for the task. Maybe go a little heavier ?

 

[bigbassfish]

I'm leaning towards building some arrows on 5mm shafts, either Gold Tip or Easton. I'd like to continue using lighted nocks so i'll probably bump up my insert weight to maintain FOC and try adding some offset instead of just straight fletch. How many degrees of offset will be sufficient to stabilize without too much drag? I will probably go to a low profile 4 fletch as well.

 

[WCB]

I'm leaning towards building some arrows on 5mm shafts, either Gold Tip or Easton. I'd like to continue using lighted nocks so i'll probably bump up my insert weight to maintain FOC and try adding some offset instead of just straight fletch. How many degrees of offset will be sufficient to stabilize without too much drag? I will probably go to a low profile 4 fletch as well.

Unless you just want to switch to 5mm just because IMO I don't see the point for 99% of situations. The smaller shafts I have shot are Easton FMJ 5mm, Vaps, and GT Pierce Platinum shafts. Regularly shooting out 80-90 yards with most shooting done 60-70...I can tell you, for me, wind is more of a factor on me shooting than arrow flight. If I can hold steady enough to shoot effectively the arrow is going where it needs to. An game I can tell you I broke more arrows with VAPS and Pierces than I have with the GT Hunter Pros and can't say my penetration was any different. I also got sick of extra components on the smaller shafts or having to drop more money on aftermarket components.

I shoot standard Blazer Vanes, Nocturnal nocks, GT Hunter Pros, and Standard 100gr Slick Tricks. Just started shooting the Nocturnals with no added weight or concern for FOC and BHs and Field points hit perfectly together to 80yds. Sorry I plain ole' don't see the hype on small diameter shafts.

 

[doc holiday13]

I'm leaning towards building some arrows on 5mm shafts, either Gold Tip or Easton. I'd like to continue using lighted nocks so i'll probably bump up my insert weight to maintain FOC and try adding some offset instead of just straight fletch. How many degrees of offset will be sufficient to stabilize without too much drag? I will probably go to a low profile 4 fletch as well.

1-2* offset, Hybrid Hunters

 

[Beendare]

Agreed^
Axis shafts are excellent. Clean inside and fletch area with denatured alcohol. Use quality epoxy, mill ends on a jig so BHs seat tight- makes them stronger.

6mm are good shafts too, minimum 9 gpi makes for stronger durable hunt arrows.

4 fletch Blazer or Vane Tech with a 1.5-2 deg offset is the best possible setup for multiple reasons.

BTW, usually its long shots on caribou but they are about the easiest animal to kill with a BH

 

[TxxAgg]

In an honest assessment of yourself, how good of a bow shot are you? You said it's been a little over a year. There is a lot that gets overlooked that sold practice remedies...hand pressure, back tension, strong bow arm, etc.

Just something to consider. When my shooting is off a little, it's always the grip and being a little lazy on back tension.

Another thing to consider is larger vanes. They will steer your arrow instead of potentially letting your broadhead steer as distance and wind increases.

 

[bigbassfish]

I will readily admit I am not the archer i would like to be, so I have been hesitant to really adjust anything on my setup because I know most of it is still with me.

As far as practicing goes, are there any drills or things to be doing when I shoot to make sure I'm taking full advantage of my time shooting? Lately I'll go out and shoot and focus on shooting Quarter sized tape dots anywhere from 20-40yds, but I gotta say i'm not sure it really feels productive.

Should i shoot only my broadheads for now to really amplify any issues with form?

 

[Beendare]

Learn how to shoot properly, it saves you from getting TP. Maybe take a lesson.

I work form for most of the year then near hunt season focus on a conscious shot sequence that helps me on actual animals.