New stiffer arrow setup, walk back and BH tunes good, paper is challenging.

[awpk03s]

I got a new set of arrows for this year, trying the Victory TKO RIP, which are notably lighter mass than the Easton Axis 5mm. To stick with the same arrow total weight, I added the lost weight to the point, ending up with 28.5” Victory TKO RIP V1 Elite 0.001” Iron Will arrow shafts. 75 gr Iron Will Hit stainless insert, Iron Will vanes, 25 gr impact collars. 250 spine. 150 gr point. When I have Firenocks installed it should be around 550gr total weight.

Bow is Mathew’s V3-27, 28” DL at 70lbs.

Paper tuning this setup was challenging. I felt like consistency was hard and it put a lot more emphasis on my form vs anything else once I got things centered up.

This is where I’m at consistently with it (pictured), but sometimes I’ll get a perfect bullet hole, although sometimes the tear can be a little more pronounced nock right... but I attribute that to form/fatigue I guess.

My walk back tune from 10-35 (which is what I have access to easily in my yard) looks good.

Now for comparing FP to BH:
150gr Iron Will field point aiming at upper right hand bull. 150 gr Iron Will Single Bevel Broadhead aiming at upper left hand bull.
25 yards both.

Finally, using same single bevel broadhead at 35 yards, aiming center mass/ blue tape between the two upper bulls. Arrow went pretty much right where I wanted it.

I should be good/happy with this right? In spite of the non-perfect paper?

What skews me is after doing all this; I shoot last years Easton 5mm Axis 300 spine setup (same length, 75gr insert, 25gr collar, 100gr point, TAW ~550 gr), and it’s bullet holes every time in paper.

I have a dozen of these 250 spine sticks and 6 of the 150gr points so I’m kind of committed… and my Easton inventory and 100gr heads is less than optimal because I had a good bit of fallout from last year.

TLDR - think this is okay with the 250 spine? Borderline over spine? Am I overthinking it since the arrow goes where I want it?

 

[Bump79]

300 spine probably would have been the better choice - but you should be able to make 250's work with that point weight.

IMHO, I paper tune then never think about it again. I move my rest as I need to get broadheads flying perfect. Or using tophats/shims/limb shift what have you.

I don't really care if I'm 1/8" out either way of centershot as long as my broadheads fly past my hunting distance.

 

[awpk03s]

Yeah, it’s frustrating because I asked for advice pre-purchase, since the arrow GPI was so different I wanted an opinion about going for the heavier BH weight to compensate, and they recommended to go 250 spine along with it.

But the arrows go where I point them it seems so maybe it’s all good.

 

[5MilesBack]

The past 4 years I've been shooting the RIP TKO Elite 250's with 75gr brass HIT's and 125's, 500gr total weight. I couldn't even tell you what my arrows are doing through paper, have no idea. But my BH's hit with my FP's at least to 60.

 

[Billy Goat]

It could be form inconsistencies, how many times did you shoot your Axis in comparison? Or you are getting some slight vane contact.


If your BH's are hitting with your FP's, that's the goal.

Label your arrows, see if its the same arrows making same tears, rotate your nocks. Might be nock fit.


I don't believe you can be over spined with a centershot compound bow.


Do you typically shoot broadheads into a bag target?

I wouldn't.

 

[awpk03s]

It could be form inconsistencies, how many times did you shoot your Axis in comparison? Or you are getting some slight vane contact.


If your BH's are hitting with your FP's, that's the goal.

Label your arrows, see if its the same arrows making same tears, rotate your nocks. Might be nock fit.


I don't believe you can be over spined with a centershot compound bow.


Do you typically shoot broadheads into a bag target?

I wouldn't.

Thanks!
Some black marks on bottom side of my vanes tells me there’s some contact. I need to get on a video or pull out the draw board and see if my rest timing needs adjusting…. QAD MX drop away.

Bag target, yeah learned the hard way that was no fun. Some shots the head pushed through, unscrewed it, remove arrow, easy. Other shots it didn’t pass through and I’m cutting into it from the back side to push the head all the way through. Ugh. Other option is a foam target that sucks because even my field points will blow through to the vanes in that one. I need to invest in a better solution.

 

[Billy Goat]

Some black marks on bottom side of my vanes tells me there’s some contact. I need to get on a video or pull out the draw board and see if my rest timing needs adjusting…. QAD MX drop away.

Timing on a QAD will self set, let the cord pull through on its on, thats where you will want to be. I leave about 1/4" of cord extra, then burn a big ball or tie a not. That way if anything creeps, its not binding up the rest. Too much cord tension is what I see damage those rests, otherwise they are pretty good.

Try a different vane orientation.

 

[awpk03s]

Timing on a QAD will self set, let the cord pull through on its on, thats where you will want to be. I leave about 1/4" of cord extra, then burn a big ball or tie a not. That way if anything creeps, its not binding up the rest. Too much cord tension is what I see damage those rests, otherwise they are pretty good.

Try a different vane orientation.

You mean turning my nock so the vanes are different positions (presently 12:00, 4:00, 8:00… ish). But so it’s not one up two down but maybe two up one down? Or one to the side two to the side?

I feel like I’m not explaining that very well, ha.

Thank you!!

 

[2Stamp]

You mean turning my nock so the vanes are different positions (presently 12:00, 4:00, 8:00… ish). But so it’s not one up two down but maybe two up one down? Or one to the side two to the side?

I feel like I’m not explaining that very well, ha.

Thank you!!

Nock tuning is turning the actual nock in the shaft. If you imagine a classic 3 fletch setup with a different colored vane, which would normally be up. Turn the nock so one of the other colors is now up. With a 3 fletch you essentially have three positions the arrow can be in. Google it and bunch of stuff, including videos, comes up.

 

[doc holiday13]

I don't believe you can be over spined with a centershot compound bow.

I would agree with this. Every aspect of a compound bow made in the last 15 years is tunable. Less flex would mean the arrows will (in theory) do the same thing. Thats a broad sweeping statement without any nuance being accounted for

 

[ATL]

Yes, load an arrow with the rest in the up position, look from behind to see how the fletch clearance is with the rest, cables, and bow riser. Rotate the nock to a position that provides the best clearance. It does not have to be symmetrical, just consistent from arrow to arrow.

 

[Billy Goat]

You mean turning my nock so the vanes are different positions (presently 12:00, 4:00, 8:00… ish). But so it’s not one up two down but maybe two up one down? Or one to the side two to the side?

I feel like I’m not explaining that very well, ha.

Thank you!!

I mean turn your nocks to orient a vane straight out at 90 degrees, see if that helps with vane clearance.


Once that is determined, you can try nock tuning. That is rotating the nocks to orient a different vane in the "cock vane" position. Which is just to put a different vane in your vane position. With 3 fletch you get 3 shaft positions to try, 4 fletch on 90 gives you 4 positions.

 

[awpk03s]

I’m following you now, thanks.
Will try that and see if I can reduce the contact