Cannot get rid of low tear, Mathews V3X 29.

[Kyle Wheeler]

Where is the rest cord tied at on the limb?

This is what I was going to ask. Had a friend use the Hamskea clamp with a VXR and could not get consistent flight. Moved it about 2.5 inches in and it was perfect.

 

[CMS829]

This is what I was going to ask. Had a friend use the Hamskea clamp with a VXR and could not get consistent flight. Moved it about 2.5 inches in and it was perfect.

I'll have to re measure it. It was whatever Hamskea suggested for the v3x29.

 

[OR Archer]

If you move it towards the limb tip that will sometimes solve the issue of a low tear providing everything else is correct such as cam timing and arrow spine.

 

[Billy Goat]

Those bows are pretty stupid simple usually. Set cam timing, put your loop dead center between the axles, center of arrow shaft in the top 1/2 of the berger hole. That will have your vertical nock travel leveled out, need to fine tune the rest for if the arrow is leaving the bow nock high or low, but it will be very minor adjustments.


Double check that you do have matching mods on the cams.

Check the timing windows on the cams, make sure they are even.


Then start playing with the activation cord on the rest.

 

[wayoh22]

That big of a tear sounds like incorrect arrow spine. Charts are a good place for starting point but ultimately you have to test with these things.

 

[wayoh22]

What bow are you shooting? Specs? Arrow and arrow specs?

 

[ncavi8tor]

I found the V3X33 and 29 that I own both tune more nock level with weaker spines. Also, I like the feel with the top cam a tiny bit ahead, 1/32-1/16". My guess is you're too stiff. Try a heavier point, weaker spine, and/or higher poundage.

Spine issues show up as vertical nock travel problems more so than lateral in compound bows.

NC

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[Zac]

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

I bet a a little bit of work on the timing would clear that up.

Straight from archery talk

Pick a direction, ADD or REMOVE and try 1/2 twist. If you don't see any change, then go back to the press and double the adjustment. If you tweaked the cable by 1/2 twist, now go the same direction and tweak the cable by a full twist. You have now changed twists by 1.5 twists, and you will definitely see a change in your paper tear. Either the nock low tear got WORSE, or the nock low tear got better. If you added twists in ONE cable, and the tear got worse, go back to the bow press and undo the twists, and go the other direction and REMOVE enough twists until the nock low tear is gone.


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[bkennedy2]

Pick a direction, ADD or REMOVE and try 1/2 twist. If you don't see any change, then go back to the press and double the adjustment. If you tweaked the cable by 1/2 twist, now go the same direction and tweak the cable by a full twist. You have now changed twists by 1.5 twists, and you will definitely see a change in your paper tear. Either the nock low tear got WORSE, or the nock low tear got better. If you added twists in ONE cable, and the tear got worse, go back to the bow press and undo the twists, and go the other direction and REMOVE enough twists until the nock low tear is gone.

If you adjust the timing to fix the tear then what would need to be done to fix the spongey draw stop if they aren't in sync anymore after this adjustment?

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

If you adjust the timing to fix the tear then what would need to be done to fix the spongey draw stop if they aren't in sync anymore after this adjustment?

Being a little off wont make it spongy or at least hasn’t on the bows I’ve had. A little bit goes a long way for correcting the tear.


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[ncavi8tor]

Being a little off wont make it spongy or at least hasn’t on the bows I’ve had. A little bit goes a long way for correcting the tear.


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More than a half twist on a Mathews SW cam bow is a LOT and will make the backwall spongy. I've seen this exact post on AT numerous times ad nauseam and I know who wrote it. I would not follow that advice!

NC

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[Marble]

Having the timing slightly off can really make the bow jumpy too.

I would guess, purely a guess, the timing is slightly off. I've had the bow shop check my timing and adjust it. Then I get to my buddies house and he rechecks it and has to undo what they did.

I think another set up eyes needs to take a looksee.

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[OR Archer]

More than a half twist on a Mathews SW cam bow is a LOT and will make the backwall spongy. I've seen this exact post on AT numerous times ad nauseam and I know who wrote it. I would not follow that advice!

NC

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Exactly. That specific cam system is made to run dead even. Even a 1/16th out will cause tuning issues

 

[OR Archer]

i don’t know if this has been asked yet but where did you set your loop at? The newer Mathew’s are designed to have the knocking point centered between the cams. If yours is not I’d reset it based on this and then level your rest according to that as well. If your set up to high it can result in what you’re seeing now.

 

[Castle Oak]

Check your grip. Mathews bows do not like a lot of heel pressure. Too much heel pressure will cause a low tear.

 

[waldo9190]

After reading through the thread here are a few ideas that I haven't seen confirmed yet.

• Nock Pinch (serving in your nock point should clear this up)
• Nock tune (twist your arrows 180 and see if you still get the low tear)
• Facial/nose pressure on string
• String stop not contacting string before brace

Without knowing your DL/DW it is tough to make calls on spine, but I shoot 350s at 26" and 70 lb., which according to pretty much any software I'm WAY over spined, but I've never had an issue getting my bow(s) to shoot bullet holes.

 

[stanginthe11s]

hand the bow to a friend and see if they can duplicate the tear.

 

[cornfedkiller]

put your loop dead center between the axles, center of arrow shaft in the top 1/2 of the berger hole.

The newer Mathew’s are designed to have the knocking point centered between the cams. If yours is not I’d reset it based on this and then level your rest

I see this mentioned quite a bit, and it makes perfect sense, but I recently set up my Phase4 and had a low tear, and it was corrected by raising my nock point probably 1/4". Had a buddy bring his Phase4 29 over to set up was well, and the only way we could get a good tear was to set his nock point a little high as well. Both bows shoot perfectly through paper now with both fletched arrows and bare shafts.

Timing was correct on both bows..

 

[Billy Goat]

I see this mentioned quite a bit, and it makes perfect sense, but I recently set up my Phase4 and had a low tear, and it was corrected by raising my nock point probably 1/4". Had a buddy bring his Phase4 29 over to set up was well, and the only way we could get a good tear was to set his nock point a little high as well. Both bows shoot perfectly through paper now with both fletched arrows and bare shafts.

Timing was correct on both bows..

Did you try lowering the rest any? Or just jump to moving the loop?

I always leave the loop in the center, adjust the rest height. That keeps the cams cyncronized but allows the arrow to be positioned where it needs to be. The 1/4" high was to help keep the arrow loaded down on a rest that was already high of center anyways.