Kyle Wheeler
WKR
This is what I was going to ask. Had a friend use the Hamskea clamp with a VXR and could not get consistent flight. Moved it about 2.5 inches in and it was perfect.Where is the rest cord tied at on the limb?
This is what I was going to ask. Had a friend use the Hamskea clamp with a VXR and could not get consistent flight. Moved it about 2.5 inches in and it was perfect.Where is the rest cord tied at on the limb?
Pick a direction, ADD or REMOVE and try 1/2 twist. If you don't see any change, then go back to the press and double the adjustment. If you tweaked the cable by 1/2 twist, now go the same direction and tweak the cable by a full twist. You have now changed twists by 1.5 twists, and you will definitely see a change in your paper tear. Either the nock low tear got WORSE, or the nock low tear got better. If you added twists in ONE cable, and the tear got worse, go back to the bow press and undo the twists, and go the other direction and REMOVE enough twists until the nock low tear is gone.
If you adjust the timing to fix the tear then what would need to be done to fix the spongey draw stop if they aren't in sync anymore after this adjustment?
More than a half twist on a Mathews SW cam bow is a LOT and will make the backwall spongy. I've seen this exact post on AT numerous times ad nauseam and I know who wrote it. I would not follow that advice!Being a little off wont make it spongy or at least hasn’t on the bows I’ve had. A little bit goes a long way for correcting the tear.
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Exactly. That specific cam system is made to run dead even. Even a 1/16th out will cause tuning issuesMore than a half twist on a Mathews SW cam bow is a LOT and will make the backwall spongy. I've seen this exact post on AT numerous times ad nauseam and I know who wrote it. I would not follow that advice!
NC
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put your loop dead center between the axles, center of arrow shaft in the top 1/2 of the berger hole.
The newer Mathew’s are designed to have the knocking point centered between the cams. If yours is not I’d reset it based on this and then level your rest
I see this mentioned quite a bit, and it makes perfect sense, but I recently set up my Phase4 and had a low tear, and it was corrected by raising my nock point probably 1/4". Had a buddy bring his Phase4 29 over to set up was well, and the only way we could get a good tear was to set his nock point a little high as well. Both bows shoot perfectly through paper now with both fletched arrows and bare shafts.
Timing was correct on both bows..