Bump to 300 spine?

[Beendare]

Why don’t you paper tune stickbows?

I like to shoot bareshafts instead. It gets me to perfect arrow spine. Now sometimes 8 cut a shaft too short and have to trash it- but worth it to get that perfect spine. I don’t worry about angle of bareshft in the target ( unless its really bad) I focus on location.

Usually, if it shoots bareshafts, it will shoot BHs…but not always.

Then, I shoot BHs for groups against FPs to confirm.
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[Beendare]

Some guys here make a good point about refining your form gets you better arrow flight- totally true.

But then they insinuate some are shooting too stiff an arrow.

My bet is they don’t have a long draw…with long arrows in a cut past center riser with high performance carbon limbs- That matters.

I have tried the weaker 500’s 31 1/2” arrows that work in my longbow and shot them in my ILFs. They show weak as heck- sometimes off the target. It seems weird they wouldn’t work…but they just don’t.

 

[Undomesticated]

Roughly the string position for my hook with as little pressure as possible on my ring finger. Something I can improve?

Not necessarily. That is a pretty standard "deep hook," but it is something to tinker with to possibly get a crisper release.

Try different finger pressures, try hooking shallower (middle finger in crease, index and ring on the "tip" side of the crease), try putting more pressure on the bottom of the fingers (as Kisik Lee suggests-hooking "up" if that makes sense), try addressing the string with your fingers at an angle (can help get off the ring finger cleaner).
Anchoring at a different place on your face can help as well. Sometimes with your hook, the side of your face and the pressure you impart thwarts opening your fingers cleanly (which video really won't show). That's why an under the chin anchor gives such a good release.

 

[Trey Arentz]

What's your center shot set at? What's the brace height of the bow? And what's the tiller set to?

I had a problem with consistent weak tears when I put I bear weather rest on a bow that was already set and an even or an outside of center center shot. The arrow was always coming out at an angle or never straight because the shelf was to far over.

 

[Jermh]

300 Rampages showed up yesterday. Only fletched 2 last night just so I could confirm whether or not they were anywhere close. Put 200 gr up front and started shooting at 20 this morning. Think I'll go ahead and put vanes on a couple more and keep shooting but I think we're on the way to where this thing needs to be.

 

[Jermh]

With only being a few months in with the recurve I think I am going to call it good for now on the tuning and just focus on continuing to refine my form and just general shooting. Bareshafts are as close to fletched at 20 as I can physically shoot them at this stage in my game and I am happy with it for now. I think this will be the recipe until I get broadheads here (thinking 125gr 3 blade Cutthroat) and confirm that they are on. I appreciate the help from everyone. Just a couple months til game time.

 

[Beendare]

Smart move Jerem

 

[Onski316]

On my 45# bows, they mostly like full length (32") 500's with 200g tips, stock inserts. Usually around 12-14g. I'd think 340's would be terribly stiff. I agree with other posts, bareshaft first and then tune from there. I have probably 30 different bareshaft setups I've accumulated over the years to really make things easy. I'm pretty good and getting the spine close right off the bat and then dial it in with which brand/model shoots better and fine tune with tips lastly. Then fletch and call it a day.

 

[ianpadron]

Did you ever end up getting things resolved? I too am of the opinion you may have been getting some false weak spine readings.

I pull my Satori at 57#, just shy of 31" draw, with full length (34") BE Vintage .350s and 300 grains up front it's about as good of arrow flight as I've seen (although slooowwwww lol). Tough to imagine needing .300s for a shorter arrow, less tip weight, and a lighter draw...but bows are weird sometimes

 

[Jermh]

I have only shot bare shafts out to 20 but they are hitting great with field points and flight looks clean when I do my part. I am happy for now. Full length BE Rampage 300's, 75gr insert, 150 gr head, 4 AAE Hybrid 26's with a 4" wrap. Weighing out at around 558 grains moving at 187 according to the chrono at the local shop I was in the other day (faster than I thought they would be). I have changed up my anchor some and I think I need to re-measure my draw length, I wouldn't be surprised if it's grown at least a half inch between anchor change and getting a better feel for good back tension. I'll be ordering broadheads in the next day or two just need to decide between 3 blades or single bevel, but they'll be Cutthroats either way I think.

 

[ianpadron]

I have only shot bare shafts out to 20 but they are hitting great with field points and flight looks clean when I do my part. I am happy for now. Full length BE Rampage 300's, 75gr insert, 150 gr head, 4 AAE Hybrid 26's with a 4" wrap. Weighing out at around 558 grains moving at 187 according to the chrono at the local shop I was in the other day (faster than I thought they would be). I have changed up my anchor some and I think I need to re-measure my draw length, I wouldn't be surprised if it's grown at least a half inch between anchor change and getting a better feel for good back tension. I'll be ordering broadheads in the next day or two just need to decide between 3 blades or single bevel, but they'll be Cutthroats either way I think.

Glad you got things dialed. 187 fps is cookin' with that arrow/draw weight combo, sounds like a sweeeeet setup for sure

 

[Jermh]

I know this thread is getting old but I think this is relevant to the conversation. Again, new to the traditional game so curious of the correct method for measuring draw length. The Sharpie mark pointed out in the picture is 32" from valley of the nock. Is draw length measured valley of nock to front of riser, making my draw length just shy of 32"? Would make the need for 300's make more sense to me if that is the case, it just seems long to me as I'm only roughly 5'-11". Thoughts?

 

[bowhuntercoop]

I know this thread is getting old but I think this is relevant to the conversation. Again, new to the traditional game so curious of the correct method for measuring draw length. The Sharpie mark pointed out in the picture is 32" from valley of the nock. Is draw length measured valley of nock to front of riser, making my draw length just shy of 32"? Would make the need for 300's make more sense to me if that is the case, it just seems long to me as I'm only roughly 5'-11". Thoughts?

It’s to the front of the riser. Sure you’re not over drawing? Many guys first do when starting out not understanding alignment. Any formal coaching or old trad guys to help ya?

300 spine for 32 inch draw would be normal depending on draw weight and tip weight. According to your first post 300 spine sounds normal.

 

[Beendare]

32" DL for a 5'11" man is pretty rare. Are you drawing to the front of your face with the string aligned with your eyeball- ie- looking through the string?

I'm 6'3" with a 30.5" DL....I have a buddy 6'6" and he has a legit 32"+ DL.

FWIW, I have a 55# high performance ILF setup- 64", long Uukha and Nika limbs that I got 3 arrows to bare shaft tune; 300, 350, 400 spine of different lengths and point weights. It's been a year ago now but the Lightest was appx; 380 and heaviest was 500g.

A guy can shoot a range of different spined arrows from these cut past center shot bows by adjusting length and tip weight.

Now, thats not so with Longbows and risers that aren't cut a ways past center...at least in my experience those need weak spine to clear the riser.

 

[Jermh]

Very likely I am doing something 'incorrect'. Definitely not anchoring front of face and looking through the string, I'm pulling well past that. I'll explore this more next off-season as we're too close to season to make that kind of a change right now. Helpful info though

 

[Beendare]

How do you aim with the string way over on the side of your head?

 

[Jermh]

How do you aim with the string way over on the side of your head?

I draw and anchor to a vertical bow. Once anchored it's just a slight tilt of the head and canting of the bow, in unison. This puts the arrow under my eye and in line with the target. Expand and the shot is gone. I'm sure there are simpler, more effective ways but it seems to be working so far.

 

[Jermh]

It's only the first deer with this head/arrow setup but figured I'd give an update. 18 yard shot, arrow recovered sticking ~6" in the dirt. I don't see going back to the compound anytime soon...

 

[Wrench]

I draw and anchor to a vertical bow. Once anchored it's just a slight tilt of the head and canting of the bow, in unison. This puts the arrow under my eye and in line with the target. Expand and the shot is gone. I'm sure there are simpler, more effective ways but it seems to be working so far.

Be careful with this technique. You can cause shoulder impingement with a high bow shoulder....and Clum says you can't cant without a high bow shoulder.


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