Broadhead tuning multiple heads

[RemiR7]

I’ve always shot a mix of fixed heads (Montecs) and mechanicals in the quiver. This year it’ll be IW s100 and most likely sevr 1.5”. I’ve got the IWs tuned out to 50-55 at the moment, but looking to add another style fixed head (slick trick, g5 striker, exodus full blade). The IWs will be the main head for what it’s worth, but for those of you who shoot multiple fixed heads with different styles/designs do you tune that secondary head to the main head (IW in this situation) so both broadheads are grouping together?

 

[Billy Goat]

I haven't found that my bows shoot different heads to a different poi when tuned, maybe only slightly at distance. Through a shooting machine I can have multiple fixed heads impacting the same as mechanicals and field points at 65 yards.


Not saying a giant head might not hit different than something else at distance (drag), but if they are quality heads they should all impact the same. A small head might impact with your field points before something else, but that doesn't mean you are all the way there. I don't consider a hunting bow tuned until I have multiple fixed heads impacting together with my field points at distance.

 

[Wellsdw]

^^^^^^^^ what he said

 

[bwlacy]

What he said X3

In the past I tried every fixed blade head I had laying around here. Once tuned they all grouped together at 70 yards.

 

[Spiral Horn]

I don’t understand the obsession to keep micro-tuning a bow to shoot every conceivable head to the same POI. Outside of the theory (and true bow mechanics) what I’ve usually witnessed is guys getting their bow tuned to consistently shoot the broadhead they intend to hunt with like a dart. Then someone tells them their bow isn’t “really tuned” if it cannot shoot everything to the same POI - followed by the average Bowhunter re-tinkering everything until something is broken or completely out-of-wack. Personally tune the exact setup I intend to hunt with until it flies like a dart out to my max range. Then I’m done tinkering with the setup and will practice shooting under hunting conditions - kneeling, sitting, standing, dressed in my hunting clothes. Also mentally visualize making the actual shot on the animal I’m hunting. Point is - the bow is just a tool, once it is tuned, leave it alone and prepare the hunter. From what I’ve witnessed over the years more hunts go bust from lack of hunter preparation vs. bow micro-tuning.

 

[Billy Goat]

I don’t understand the obsession to keep micro-tuning a bow to shoot every conceivable head to the same POI. Outside of the theory (and true bow mechanics) what I’ve usually witnessed is guys getting their bow tuned to consistently shoot the broadhead they intend to hunt with like a dart. Then someone tells them their bow isn’t “really tuned” if it cannot shoot everything to the same POI - followed by the average Bowhunter re-tinkering everything until something is broken or completely out-of-wack. Personally tune the exact setup I intend to hunt with until it flies like a dart out to my max range. Then I’m done tinkering with the setup and will practice shooting under hunting conditions - kneeling, sitting, standing, dressed in my hunting clothes. Also mentally visualize making the actual shot on the animal I’m hunting. Point is - the bow is just a tool, once it is tuned, leave it alone and prepare the hunter. From what I’ve witnessed over the years more hunts go bust from lack of hunter preparation vs. bow micro-tuning.

I don't disagree with what you say, however I'm all the time changing broadheads. Just trying something different. The op asked about shooting multiple heads, so I told him what I do. If he had asked about a broadhead hitting different from his field points I would have told him to tune until his broadhead was impacting with fieldpoints. Not saying he has to have 5 different heads hitting the same, unless he might be using all 5 of those.

I enjoy tinkering with things, so yes I spend a bunch of time tuning. I also shoot year round so it's not like I need the tune up as much.

 

[5MilesBack]

About 10 years ago I had nine different BH's that would hit the same 3" bullseye at 60 yards with my FP's. Then I tried a Slick Trick Magnum and that thing was almost 6" low at 60. If your IW's are hitting with your FP's I wouldn't even mess with another BH that doesn't also hit there without any adjustments.

 

[Spiral Horn]

I don't disagree with what you say, however I'm all the time changing broadheads. Just trying something different. The op asked about shooting multiple heads, so I told him what I do. If he had asked about a broadhead hitting different from his field points I would have told him to tune until his broadhead was impacting with fieldpoints. Not saying he has to have 5 different heads hitting the same, unless he might be using all 5 of those.

I enjoy tinkering with things, so yes I spend a bunch of time tuning. I also shoot year round so it's not like I need the tune up as much.

I understand - and yes, that’s what the OP asked.

Just feel that guys are focusing too much on the wrong things when obsessed with having the best tuned bow in the woods. Have plenty of buddies who regularly “clean my clock” at the target or 3D range, but it’s precisely the opposite when it comes to setting up and making shots on game. Also strongly recommended against having multiple types of broadheads in a hunting quiver - recipe for second-guessing and mistakes. The moment of truth should be 100% focused on determining when the shot is ”there” and executing precisely as practiced. Everything in executing shots on game needs to be boringly familiar and is no time to discover that tree stand harness or new hunting jacket restricts shooting form or to be fumbling with changing out arrows.

BTW - the Army has a motto directly applicable here - “train as you are going to actually fight”

 

[doverpack12]

I always shoot a mix of heads. Most that I try do impact with everything else, however I have had some that may group a larger or slightly off. I just move those ahead and cross them off the list of options. I'm not going to change my bow tune chasing a few heads when 5,6, maybe 7 or more that I like all hit together. Every single setup is different so all heads will behave different for each person and their setup. You just have to pick what you like and try it. Any of the 3 you listed are fine and so are your Montecs if you still have them. Start with your first choice of those 3-4 and try it.

 

[Billy Goat]

I understand - and yes, that’s what the OP asked.

Just feel that guys are focusing too much on the wrong things when obsessed with having the best tuned bow in the woods. Have plenty of buddies who regularly “clean my clock” at the target or 3D range, but it’s precisely the opposite when it comes to setting up and making shots on game. Also strongly recommended against having multiple types of broadheads in a hunting quiver - recipe for second-guessing and mistakes. The moment of truth should be 100% focused on determining when the shot is ”there” and executing precisely as practiced. Everything in executing shots on game needs to be boringly familiar and is no time to discover that tree stand harness or new hunting jacket restricts shooting form or to be fumbling with changing out arrows.

BTW - the Army has a motto directly applicable here - “train as you are going to actually fight”

I agree with what your saying. And I have never had more than 2 different heads in a quiver. Just throughout the year I might change heads depending on what I'm hunting. Elk hunting I use what I trust, I'll generally shoot half dozen deer around home with Archery equipment, this is where I will try out new broadheads after they have proven adequate through practice.


Hell I rabbit and groundhog hunt with my broadheads. Gotta have confidence.

 

[5MilesBack]

BTW - the Army has a motto directly applicable here - “train as you are going to actually fight”

That all comes AFTER getting your bow set up.

I'll spend all summer on that second part.

 

[Spiral Horn]

That all comes AFTER getting your bow set up.

I'll spend all summer on that second part.

Correct! Still feel everyone needs a well-tuned bow. But once it is set up to work for its intended purpose leave-it-alone, practice and focus on getting ready for the hunt. Otherwise I’ll have to yet again listen to another “I don’t know what happened, my bow shoots perfectly” stories in hunting camp.

Sorry if I partially hijacked the thread, just felt the point needed to be made. Said my piece, and hopefully the OP gets his question addressed to his satisfaction.

 

[MattB]

I don't recall having experienced a situation where I have to play with anything to get certain FBBH's to hit with other FBBH's. Once I tune with one (usually the largest to start), the others hit the same spot - or at least as near as I can tell based on my shooting ability.

 

[BigCountry49]

Each broadhead is going to have a different drag coefficient that results in a different flight pattern. If your bow is really out of tune your field points will fly significantly different than your broadheads as the tuning issues affecting flight will be more noticeable on a broadhead with higher drag coef. Even with a absolutely perfect tune your broadheads will always fly slightly different than your field points or any other head for that matter.

 

[RemiR7]

About 10 years ago I had nine different BH's that would hit the same 3" bullseye at 60 yards with my FP's. Then I tried a Slick Trick Magnum and that thing was almost 6" low at 60. If your IW's are hitting with your FP's I wouldn't even mess with another BH that doesn't also hit there without any adjustments.

the IWs are hitting great with FPS out to 50-55 so far and will be the main head( elk/deer) The reason of trying another head is essentially finances. I bit the bullet and bought the IWs and for me that’s a lot on broadheads. Would like another fixed head in the Arsenal that’s a bit more affordable to me.

 

[RemiR7]

I haven't found that my bows shoot different heads to a different poi when tuned, maybe only slightly at distance. Through a shooting machine I can have multiple fixed heads impacting the same as mechanicals and field points at 65 yards.


Not saying a giant head might not hit different than something else at distance (drag), but if they are quality heads they should all impact the same. A small head might impact with your field points before something else, but that doesn't mean you are all the way there. I don't consider a hunting bow tuned until I have multiple fixed heads impacting together with my field points at distance.

Sounds like I just need to get a head that I desire outside of the IWs/Sevr and see what happens. I wasn’t sure if Head/blade design Would have any effect On point of impact compared to the IWs day if I went to a 3/4 blade fixed head Compared to the IW design.

 

[Billy Goat]

Sounds like I just need to get a head that I desire outside of the IWs/Sevr and see what happens. I wasn’t sure if Head/blade design Would have any effect On point of impact compared to the IWs day if I went to a 3/4 blade fixed head Compared to the IW design.

If you like the IW design other than the price look at some Magnus stinger's. They make a vented and a full blade. Hard to beat the warranty.

Really the Iron Will are economical in my opinion if you don't loose them. They will resharpen. Just takes a little effort. Some other heads I never truste much after shooting an animal, too easy to bend a ferrule. I could spin them and check but by the time I add blades and everything I just put a new one on.

Lots of options, just pick one you like and shoot it.

 

[RemiR7]

If you like the IW design other than the price look at some Magnus stinger's. They make a vented and a full blade. Hard to beat the warranty.

Really the Iron Will are economical in my opinion if you don't loose them. They will resharpen. Just takes a little effort. Some other heads I never truste much after shooting an animal, too easy to bend a ferrule. I could spin them and check but by the time I add blades and everything I just put a new one on.

Lots of options, just pick one you like and shoot it.

Yes they are just expensive up front, but long term like you said if you don’t lose them I think individuals will save money in the long run. I spent $80 on two packs of montecs last year and had to throw 4 of them away due to the damage. Partly the reason of switching to them. I’ll have to check them out.