Beendare
WKR
I'm curious, what are you going to have into those setups for a dozen arrows inc BH?
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I just picked up a dozen of the Victory R.I.P TKO shafts in .300 spine they are the same build as the grizzly stik shafts I have that victory builds but less gpi. I think these are going to be extremely strong shafts.
Yes, I've shot the Centershots. They're ok, but far from my first choice. The PSE X Weaves are a much more durable shaft, just hard to find and not offered in a woodgrain lol. I tried to drill that into every customer's head that I built arrows for... square the ends, BOTH ends. I did it every time, then when they compared how they shot to other arrows they had they could see the difference. It doesn't add much time to the building process but it's worth every second on the spinner.I've shot both the MFX's and the Axis trad...and I also preferred the MFX...though I don't think there is that much of a difference.
Have you tried the Beman Centershot? Those are cheaper...by a long shot....and though 6mm they are the best $$ value I've found.....I'm moving to those in my recurve.
The best tip I can give is to mill the ends of all of these carbons on a jig. I posted this in the Archery section....but I found a big difference in not only getting and keeping BH's straight but also it makes the arrow more durable.
View attachment 180866
This is a cell phone pic of the LH arrow milled on 320 sandpaper and the RH one right off the saw. If you saw the ends under higher magnification you would be shocked how ragged that arrow off the saw really is- its terrible. Even if you use an insert that goes right to the end, that tight seating makes a difference IME.
I've had shop guys tell me, "I spin them" on the saw and they are fine. BS, look at the ends in a microscope and you will see how bad they really are.
The grizzlystik arrows are tapered shafts if they are the Momentum TDTs. That's what makes them so expensive. If I was looking for tapered shafts I'd be getting some PTP shafts from Arrow Dynamics, nitrostinger.com, made in the States and standard components fit. I've shot their woodgrain tapered shafts before as well, along with the tapered shafts from Quest arrows. Tapered shafts are extremely forgiving of different point weights and I've had very good results with them. Victory makes a good arrow as well, they just need to offer bare shafts in longer lengths so long draw guys can actually trim both ends and tune by reducing length instead of hoping the length they offer works. That's been the only sticking point with me shooting them out of my trad setups, broadhead to front of fingers clearance.I just picked up a dozen of the Victory R.I.P TKO shafts in .300 spine they are the same build as the grizzly stik shafts I have that victory builds but less gpi. I think these are going to be extremely strong shafts. I also am going to be using the 100 grain HIT inserts and 25g collars from iron will. Then depending on tune etc using the 225 or 250 grain iron will broadheads. Should be a total arrow weight around 620-650 with at least 26% foc out of a 65# centaur longbow.
I am also "FOR FUN" setting up some shafts with the 625 grain bishop s7 head.. surprisingly enough when I shoot this current arrow I was playing with out of a 58 or 65# centaur both shot straight bare shaft.. that arrow is a vap 340 cut down to roughly 28" with a firenock outsert and the bishop 625 grain fieldtip. I will say when you shoot a new bag target inside with that big ass head it makes a serious boom.
Yes, I've shot the Centershots. They're ok, but far from my first choice. The PSE X Weaves are a much more durable shaft, just hard to find and not offered in a woodgrain lol. I tried to drill that into every customer's head that I built arrows for... square the ends, BOTH ends. I did it every time, then when they compared how they shot to other arrows they had they could see the difference. It doesn't add much time to the building process but it's worth every second on the spinner.
What kind of saw are you using to cut your arrows? Cause I just cut a couple on my saw and they look like the arrows after you mill yours!I've shot both the MFX's and the Axis trad...and I also preferred the MFX...though I don't think there is that much of a difference.
Have you tried the Beman Centershot? Those are cheaper...by a long shot....and though 6mm they are the best $$ value I've found.....I'm moving to those in my recurve.
The best tip I can give is to mill the ends of all of these carbons on a jig. I posted this in the Archery section....but I found a big difference in not only getting and keeping BH's straight but also it makes the arrow more durable.
View attachment 180866
This is a cell phone pic of the LH arrow milled on 320 sandpaper and the RH one right off the saw. If you saw the ends under higher magnification you would be shocked how ragged that arrow off the saw really is- its terrible. Even if you use an insert that goes right to the end, that tight seating makes a difference IME.
I've had shop guys tell me, "I spin them" on the saw and they are fine. BS, look at the ends in a microscope and you will see how bad they really are.
What kind of saw are you using to cut your arrows? Cause I just cut a couple on my saw and they look like the arrows after you mill yours!
I use a Weston, middle of the road I guess and I have no issues, even have one of those g5 arrow things that you use to clean up the end of the arrow, it basically doesn't do anything because the arrows are true. My photo isn't as clear as yours but arrow is clean and squareI use a cheap saw....but them spin the ends on 320 sandpaper and alternate with the chamfer stone if I need a chamfer.
In my experience now; I wouldn't shoot an arrow right off the saw, that BH seating is too critical.
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There is no such thing as an indestructible arrow. They'll all break eventually. I've seen broken arrows from every manufacturer. If I'm stump shooting I'll use a footer, but for an animal they aren't necessary. A good solid BH does the trick. A footer isn't going to punch through bone on its own.
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