Binos vs Scope at low light?

fwafwow

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The answer doesn’t change for me with archery or turkeys. The value of being able to focus on different distances in thick cover doesn’t change. I feel naked in the woods without binoculars.
I hear you. I often find myself using them to pass the time. But I’ve also gone down a path of carrying in less - of everything. And for archery I find my need for binos varies. My rangefinder has a magnification, so I debate whether I need the animosity.
 

TheGDog

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I grew up man driving deer and had plenty of experience with ex wives. Having a gun pointed at me isn't very traumatic anymore. Having said that, I pretty much live with binos if I'm hunting or scouting the last 10 yrs.
Sorry to hear about psycho ex stuff. Once had to dodge a fork thrown at my head all Neo-Matrix style.... last minute... only to have it come to rest stabbed into the brand new leather couches I'd purchased for our new life together just after wedding. Joy. That's the Ex affectionately known as "Mrs Anger Mgmt"
 
OP
alabamahunt

alabamahunt

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I’ve also got a Meopro 3.5-10x44. My Maven C1 8x42s are brighter than the Meopro. I missed an opportunity at a decent buck last year that I could see in the C1s but couldn’t find it in the Meopro.

I just recently replaced the Meopro with a VX5-HD 3-15x44 and it’s brighter than both the Meopro and the C1s.

What ranges are hunting at? I’m usually in the timber so I don’t need much magnification and the 44m objective works fine for me.
Shots within 300 yards most within 125 yards. I am really eye balling the Swarovski Z5i 3.5-18x44 or the 2.4-12x50.

The "Light Transmission" says 90% on both the 44mm and 50mm so I'm unsure on how one would be more or less "bright" on say 6-7 power. Think it would be noticeable? Im sure the 50mm would be better at say 12 power. Anyone have any first hand experience comparing these? the 50mm is a little big for my liking but if Im wanting optimum brightness I may have to compromise.
 

Xycod

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I have a pair of 10x56 Zeiss binoculars that are exceptional at night. Same for a pair of Minox 8x56. All of my scopes are 56mm objective with 34mm main tubes. I get another 8-15 minutes beyond what you probably get.



I would order a pair of DD Pirchler 8x56 if I was going to do something for less than $750
Or if the handbrake was in I'd get a pair of Swarovski, Blaser, Leica or Zeiss 8x56.

Leica also makes a laser rangefinding binoculars with 8x56 in the Geovid line.

Kowa and Maven also make a 8x56 if that is more budget friendly. Just not as much light transmission.

One side note is that if you are near sighted you will love the 8x56, as most of them have a ton of eye relief for glasses.


If you don't need dials, there are a lot of lower priced 3-12x56 or 2.5-10x56 type scopes for less than $1500.

If you want the ultimate in long range and night vision you need something like with a bottom end magnification of 1.7, 2, 3 or tops 4 and an absolute top magnification high end of 20, but 12-18 is more normal. The most important part is the 56mm or larger objective lens.
Agree on the 56’s, not as fan due to size but always pick one up when hunting down south. We go until dark and being able to hold that extra power is huge when it’s late, 50’s usually get kinda funky after 10x or so where the 56 gets me considerably more power.

To the op, in binos it’s 2 eyes over one and field of view, which is huge at seeing late, that’s considering we’re talking a high quality optic. For me all that matters in that situation is you can see or you can’t, LT numbers are just that, numbers for marketing, true or not. Notice few manufacturers give the light spectrum for what that specific transmission is at. It needs to be in the black and white light or it doesn’t matter much.

Bausch and Lomb was advertising 95/96% back in the 90’s on their 4000’s. I’d get a 50/56 with the largest apparent fov you can. Swaro, leica magnus, Zeiss v8, the older diavari v’s, Schmidt, Steiner, meopta, all offer scopes with a 23-24 degree fov and forgiving eye placement which is huge late.
 

Mojave

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Agree on the 56’s, not as fan due to size but always pick one up when hunting down south. We go until dark and being able to hold that extra power is huge when it’s late, 50’s usually get kinda funky after 10x or so where the 56 gets me considerably more power.

To the op, in binos it’s 2 eyes over one and field of view, which is huge at seeing late, that’s considering we’re talking a high quality optic. For me all that matters in that situation is you can see or you can’t, LT numbers are just that, numbers for marketing, true or not. Notice few manufacturers give the light spectrum for what that specific transmission is at. It needs to be in the black and white light or it doesn’t matter much.

Bausch and Lomb was advertising 95/96% back in the 90’s on their 4000’s. I’d get a 50/56 with the largest apparent fov you can. Swaro, leica magnus, Zeiss v8, the older diavari v’s, Schmidt, Steiner, meopta, all offer scopes with a 23-24 degree fov and forgiving eye placement which is huge late.


8x56 is the best, even beats 9x63 (rare) in light transmission. 10x56 is ok. 7x50 is really good but super rare.
 

Mojave

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Sorry to hear about psycho ex stuff. Once had to dodge a fork thrown at my head all Neo-Matrix style.... last minute... only to have it come to rest stabbed into the brand new leather couches I'd purchased for our new life together just after wedding. Joy. That's the Ex affectionately known as "Mrs Anger Mgmt"
I have been married to two red heads, so I can relate with these kinds of stories.

The next X-Wife is going to be Mexican. Mostly so I can have an interesting obituary murder and mayhem story. Here lies poor Seth, his x-wives were his death.
 

KenLee

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Shots within 300 yards most within 125 yards. I am really eye balling the Swarovski Z5i 3.5-18x44 or the 2.4-12x50.

The "Light Transmission" says 90% on both the 44mm and 50mm so I'm unsure on how one would be more or less "bright" on say 6-7 power. Think it would be noticeable? Im sure the 50mm would be better at say 12 power. Anyone have any first hand experience comparing these? the 50mm is a little big for my liking but if Im wanting optimum brightness I may have to compromise.
Low light usefulness is your main goal. Skip the Z5i and go to a 56mm Z8i...or find a 56mm illuminated Leica Magnus. Yes there is a noticeable difference in low light with the bigger objective.
 

Mojave

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Low light usefulness is your main goal. Skip the Z5i and go to a 56mm Z8i...or find a 56mm illuminated Leica Magnus. Yes there is a noticeable difference in low light with the bigger objective.
Yes, exactly 90% of what it can do. Not 90% as a standardized number. 90% of how much light will go through that sized objective and main tube.

In the old days scopes were 3/4 of an inch. Today there are 40mm main tube scopes.

90% is relative to the individual optic, not to some standardized metric.
 
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Shots within 300 yards most within 125 yards. I am really eye balling the Swarovski Z5i 3.5-18x44 or the 2.4-12x50.

The "Light Transmission" says 90% on both the 44mm and 50mm so I'm unsure on how one would be more or less "bright" on say 6-7 power. Think it would be noticeable? Im sure the 50mm would be better at say 12 power. Anyone have any first hand experience comparing these? the 50mm is a little big for my liking but if Im wanting optimum brightness I may have to compromise.

At those ranges in low light situations, I’d be looking for something with at least 50mm objective with preference going to a 56mm if you want to zoom in for making out fine rack details before the shot. I’d want to keep the exit pupil of the scope at around 5mm to make sure you get full benefit of the light your pupils can use. A scope’s exit pupil is simply the objective size divided by the zoom range. So a 50mm has a 5mm exit pupil at 10x. A 56mm has 4.7mm exit pupil at 12x. Glass quality obviously plays a major role also.

I have no experience with the Z5i, sorry. Optics Trade did a review on low light scopes last year. The video is on YouTube and they also have a written version on their website. That said, from what I’ve read the S&B Polar T96 is near the top of the heap in this department. Almost double what I want to spend for my style hunting though. My VX5-HD easily gets me past legal shooting hours at close range where I hunt 95% of the time.
 

TheGDog

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I have been married to two red heads, so I can relate with these kinds of stories.

The next X-Wife is going to be Mexican. Mostly so I can have an interesting obituary murder and mayhem story. Here lies poor Seth, his x-wives were his death.
Let ya in on a secret, they ALL are psycho, just give em enough time, they'll show it. I'm at 3rd time at bat now. At least this time got a handsome kid out of it at least :)
 

TheGDog

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Shots within 300 yards most within 125 yards. I am really eye balling the Swarovski Z5i 3.5-18x44 or the 2.4-12x50.

The "Light Transmission" says 90% on both the 44mm and 50mm so I'm unsure on how one would be more or less "bright" on say 6-7 power. Think it would be noticeable? Im sure the 50mm would be better at say 12 power. Anyone have any first hand experience comparing these? the 50mm is a little big for my liking but if Im wanting optimum brightness I may have to compromise.
What's nice about when you throw-up a 50mm is that since there more real estate in the FOV, for closeby shots you get a little more of the animal in frame so your brain can more quickly figure out where you're currently pointed at, and thus more quickly realize where you need to move crosshairs too in a rush.
 

Xycod

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Theres also the euro Zeiss v6 with the same big fov as the v8, it’s exclusive to woods and water for $1699. It has fl glass and is a 2.5-15x56.


 
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DO NOT be ID'ing your dang animal with your Rifle scope!!! You'll understand why not the moment somebody points there rifle AT YOU one day! Something you will NEVER EVER forget!!!

Pucker-factor = 1 x 10^99!!!
Unless I missed it, nobody advocated for using a scope for identifying animals.
 
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Let ya in on a secret, they ALL are psycho, just give em enough time, they'll show it. I'm at 3rd time at bat now. At least this time got a handsome kid out of it at least :)
LMFAO...some of you guys are slow learners. You're not wrong bro, too bad 3 to get to the good stuff though. One and done here, couple great kids, took a few years post divorce but we get along well enough now. Got in killer shape and took down half the city for a decade and now zero interest at all, finally had enough fun I guess, more fishing and hunting time please.

From recollection on the optics stuff. Rules. 1. Magnifcation trumps exit pupil (on quality optics). 2. Stereo vision trumps magnification (22x spotting scope to equal 15x binos type thing). So...you may need about 15x on the rifle scope to see what the 10x binos are showing you?

But yes to a couple of the guys posts...there is more to this than exit pupil.
 

Waterboy

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Why can I see better at low light through my 10x42 diamond back binos but not through my 3.5-10x44 Meopta MeoPro? Is this normal to be able to see better with binoculars vs a scope at last 10min of light? Should I spend the money on the high end binos or scope for counting points?

I’ve had 3 encounters with a group of bucks right at last light that I could not make out how many points they had. (Must be 8pt or better) I’m debating or getting a new scope or binos. My wife said “it makes no sense for us to sit out here all day if we cant shoot something when it comes out just because you have some cheap POS scope and binoculars.” She hasn’t shot a buck yet and after the same situation 3 different sits she’s not happy about it and proceeded to tell me to go spend $2,000-$3,000 on a new scope and she didn’t care how far I had to go to get it lol. I don’t want to do so honestly… would it be worth it?
I’m in a similar boat just rowing in a different direction. Lol My problem is the bx4 binos are great, counting points in low light is easy, but I couldn’t make out the deer with the meopro to take the shot. I can identify deer with them well into night. When I hunt at my house I usually sit and watch the deer until 6-6:30, I could sit longer if I wanted to.
 

fwafwow

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How would it be any different?
Personally I don't think I need binos in the stand as much when I'm bow hunting. This could be because I'm trying to minimize the gear I take into a stand, especially climbing. I decided that if I can't see the deer well enough to shoot it at my range, then I don't need any help. That point of view ignores the benefit of using binos to see something coming from a ways off, but I don't need to see through brush to make a decision as to whether I'm shooting.
 

Hawk3473

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Oct 8, 2017
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I just bought a pair of Vortex 15x56 binoculars and they make a huge difference in the last few minutes of light.
 

prm

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Some 8x56 Meoptas are on my shopping list for eastern woods hunting.
 
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