A few suppressor questions

[HighUintas]

I've been considering and researching suppressors primarily for the benefit of sound reduction and have a few questions.

Considering some of the more commonly used suppressors for hunting, like a tbac ultra 7, don't reduce recoil a whole lot but change the recoil impulse by lengthening it, is there a noticeable gain in shooting performance from field positions? I can see a good brake that reduces recoil by 40-50% helping a lot, but does a suppressor? @Formidilosus , have you actually measured hit rate percentage increases when using a suppressor?

I do not want a short barrel and would be fine with an extra 7" hanging off my 22-24" barrel. Considering the barrel length I'd be using, would the shot noise amplitude be even lower than what guys using an 18" barrel experience due to lower muzzle exit pressure?

Last, since I want to keep my barrel length at 22-24" and I use either factory Tikka contour or as close as I can get, is it possible to have a 1/2x28 thread put on the end of a Tikka super lite barrel without cutting the barrel back, then using an adapter to get to 5/8x24 threads? I know the 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter is possible and I'm aware that some people say it's not safe etc, but I'm wondering specifically about doing this with an uncut Tikka barrel. In my research, it seems to be possible and fine but I'm not sure since very few people want 29" of barrel to manage so there's less documented experiences of that to read about.

Lastly , I found that Witt Machine sells a clamp on thread adapter to 5/8x24" for $60. That sounds awesome for avoiding having to have a barrel threaded, but it's extra weight and of course there's the chance it will work lose. Has anyone used one, what's the weight, and how has your experience been?

I'm primarily looking at a tbac ultra 7 direct thread in 30 cal to be used on a 30-284 and 6.5cm, both have barrel lengths of 24".

I will either be starting to save for this, or for a 223 for cheaper practice. The 223 doesn't make a ton of sense since I have a 17hmr, am reloading my 6.5cm for about 0.65/round and it would take a lot of rounds to recoup the $800 for another rifle and possibly another scope.

 

[Taudisio]

I've been considering and researching suppressors primarily for the benefit of sound reduction and have a few questions.

Considering some of the more commonly used suppressors for hunting, like a tbac ultra 7, don't reduce recoil a whole lot but change the recoil impulse by lengthening it, is there a noticeable gain in shooting performance from field positions? I can see a good brake that reduces recoil by 40-50% helping a lot, but does a suppressor? @Formidilosus , have you actually measured hit rate percentage increases when using a suppressor?

I do not want a short barrel and would be fine with an extra 7" hanging off my 22-24" barrel. Considering the barrel length I'd be using, would the shot noise amplitude be even lower than what guys using an 18" barrel experience due to lower muzzle exit pressure?

Last, since I want to keep my barrel length at 22-24" and I use either factory Tikka contour or as close as I can get, is it possible to have a 1/2x28 thread put on the end of a Tikka super lite barrel without cutting the barrel back, then using an adapter to get to 5/8x24 threads? In my research, it seems to be the case but I'm not sure since very few people want 29" of barrel to manage.

Lastly , I found that Witt Machine sells a clamp on thread adapter to 5/8x24" for $60. That sounds awesome for avoiding having to have a barrel threaded, but it's extra weight and of course there's the chance it will work lose. Has anyone used one, what's the weight, and how has your experience been?

I'm primarily looking at a tbac ultra 7 direct thread in 30 cal to be used on a 30-284 and 6.5cm, both have barrel lengths of 24".

I will either be starting to save for this, or for a 223 for cheaper practice. The 223 doesn't make a ton of sense since I have a 17hmr, am reloading my 6.5cm for about 0.65/round and it would take a lot of rounds to recoup the $800 for another rifle and possibly another scope.

I’ll try to answer some, my recoil increased with the suppressor over a bare muzzle brake. I have a tikka with a 22” barrel, with a 7” suppressor, it is looooong. No muzzle blast and my ears don’t ring without earplugs are a game changer. I would not use a clamp on thread adapter for fear of baffle strikes. $150 to get a barrel threaded is better than grenade-ing your suppressor. I don’t know the specifics of threading a factory tikka. I know my smith recommends cutting it back to get good shoulder contact, and he is not a fan of 1/2x28 for a 30 cal in case someone puts the common 223 sized adapters on them, seen it happen more than once. My (sold) Christensen Mesa in 300prc was 1/2x28 threads, so you can do it. My smiths most common recommendation with tikkas and suppressors is cutting the barrel from 26/24 to 22/20 respectively then threading.

 

[Bluefish]

Longer barrels are slightly quieter. It’s not much, maybe a few db at most. Not enough to be something I would chase. Length and weight are a bigger issue imho. Length is less important than having a bunch of weight hanging 2 ft in front of your hands. Where I hunt I often shoot offhand and having too much weight out front is a accuracy killer.

Suppressors reduce recoil in two ways, more weight and less jet effect. Is it as much as a brake, no. Is it better than a bare muzzle yes. Again, don’t get hung up on the differences between cans.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

TBAC ultra 7 is a great silencer. Don’t get a clamp on muzzle brake adapter thing. That is just dumb.

You can get the rifle threaded for 1/2x28 and use an adapter, some gunsmiths and TBAC say you shouldn’t but lots of people do it with no issues.

A good gunsmith can build a permanent 5/8x24 adapter and install a shoulder though for fairly cheap. This is the best way to go in my opinion.

There is no reason that you need to shorten your barrel but I’d imagine once you tote around a 22-24” barrel with a silencer on it you’ll realize that it sucks.

The first time I hunted with a silencer it was a 7” can on my 22” barrel. It was total BS and the first thing I did when I got back from that trip was send a few rifles out to get cut to 18”.

At this point, I’ll never shoot without a silencer ever again and I’ll try and o. Ever have barrels longer than ~ 18-20”

 

[HighUintas]

TBAC ultra 7 is a great silencer. Don’t get a clamp on muzzle brake adapter thing. That is just dumb.

You can get the rifle threaded for 1/2x28 and use an adapter, some gunsmiths and TBAC say you shouldn’t but lots of people do it with no issues.

A good gunsmith can build a permanent 5/8x24 adapter and install a shoulder though for fairly cheap. This is the best way to go in my opinion.

There is no reason that you need to shorten your barrel but I’d imagine once you tote around a 22-24” barrel with a silencer on it you’ll realize that it sucks.

The first time I hunted with a silencer it was a 7” can on my 22” barrel. It was total BS and the first thing I did when I got back from that trip was send a few rifles out to get cut to 18”.

At this point, I’ll never shoot without a silencer ever again and I’ll try and o. Ever have barrels longer than ~ 18-20”

Thanks. I think I read that you had Shaen rifles put the permanent 5/8x24 adapter on your barrel? This is what I was thinking I'd do.

What is the most annoying part of the he length? Where I hunt, I'm not typically schwacking through super thick brush and while season is open, I have my rifle in my hands 100% of the time unless I'm packing meat out. So the length above my head strapped to my pack wouldn't be an issue. I could just unscrew the can.

Is the screwing on/off operation and poi change such that a guy might keep the can off if still hunting a heavily treed area and expecting no more than a 150-200 yard shot so that a shot could be taken without the can if needed, or if it is not a quick decision shot then the can can be screwed on quickly?

 

[5811]

You can buy an ultra 7 with 1/2 by 28 direct thread. No adapters or special gunsmithing required.

 

[Taudisio]

Thanks. I think I read that you had Shaen rifles put the permanent 5/8x24 adapter on your barrel? This is what I was thinking I'd do.

What is the most annoying part of the he length? Where I hunt, I'm not typically schwacking through super thick brush and while season is open, I have my rifle in my hands 100% of the time unless I'm packing meat out. So the length above my head strapped to my pack wouldn't be an issue. I could just unscrew the can.

Is the screwing on/off operation and poi change such that a guy might keep the can off if still hunting a heavily treed area and expecting no more than a 150-200 yard shot so that a shot could be taken without the can if needed, or if it is not a quick decision shot then the can can be screwed on quickly?

It’s hard to explain and hard to get used to. Grab a can of your ladies hair spray or something else close to the physical size and tape it to your barrel. It made my short compact rifle, the longest rifle I have. I don’t like to remove the suppressor so I don’t have to think about the zero possibly shifting, then driving with the rifle in the truck, and not having a long enough gun case, it’s pretty darn noticeable outside of bushwhacking where I really get to feel every tree I walk under.

 

[Robobiss]

I've been considering and researching suppressors primarily for the benefit of sound reduction and have a few questions.

Considering some of the more commonly used suppressors for hunting, like a tbac ultra 7, don't reduce recoil a whole lot but change the recoil impulse by lengthening it, is there a noticeable gain in shooting performance from field positions? I can see a good brake that reduces recoil by 40-50% helping a lot, but does a suppressor? @Formidilosus , have you actually measured hit rate percentage increases when using a suppressor?

I do not want a short barrel and would be fine with an extra 7" hanging off my 22-24" barrel. Considering the barrel length I'd be using, would the shot noise amplitude be even lower than what guys using an 18" barrel experience due to lower muzzle exit pressure?

Last, since I want to keep my barrel length at 22-24" and I use either factory Tikka contour or as close as I can get, is it possible to have a 1/2x28 thread put on the end of a Tikka super lite barrel without cutting the barrel back, then using an adapter to get to 5/8x24 threads? I know the 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter is possible and I'm aware that some people say it's not safe etc, but I'm wondering specifically about doing this with an uncut Tikka barrel. In my research, it seems to be possible and fine but I'm not sure since very few people want 29" of barrel to manage so there's less documented experiences of that to read about.

Lastly , I found that Witt Machine sells a clamp on thread adapter to 5/8x24" for $60. That sounds awesome for avoiding having to have a barrel threaded, but it's extra weight and of course there's the chance it will work lose. Has anyone used one, what's the weight, and how has your experience been?

I'm primarily looking at a tbac ultra 7 direct thread in 30 cal to be used on a 30-284 and 6.5cm, both have barrel lengths of 24".

I will either be starting to save for this, or for a 223 for cheaper practice. The 223 doesn't make a ton of sense since I have a 17hmr, am reloading my 6.5cm for about 0.65/round and it would take a lot of rounds to recoup the $800 for another rifle and possibly another scope.

Can’t speak specifically to the Superlite, but I had a local smith thread the muzzle on my .270 mountain rifle to 1/2x28, and I rockset a stainless (barrel is stainless) 1/2x28-5/8x24 thread adapter to the end of it. Maybe I am lucky but I have had no issues running my .270 in this format through my .30 cal can.

Also, pretty sure the TBAC 7 is a standard HUB/Bravo mount. If so the better route is either a QD brake for it in 1/2x28 (make sure it accommodates the diameter of bullet you want to put through it), or a 1/2x28 direct thread bravo mount instead. Again, just make sure the opening is large enough for what you want to shoot through it. Most 1/2x28 mounts are for a .224 bullet. Even if you couldn’t find exactly what you’re looking for in a mount, it would be nothing to have a smith punch one out to .30

 

[Braaap]

I had TBAC cut and thread my tikka and install a face mount CB brake. I would contact them and they can answer all of your questions and do the work. My barrel was cut to 19” and with the Ultra 7 it’s basically the same length as it was with the 24” barrel. Recoil is very noticeably reduced (even from 6.5 cm) and the lack of noise is incredible.

 

[Lawnboi]

I've been considering and researching suppressors primarily for the benefit of sound reduction and have a few questions.

Considering some of the more commonly used suppressors for hunting, like a tbac ultra 7, don't reduce recoil a whole lot but change the recoil impulse by lengthening it, is there a noticeable gain in shooting performance from field positions? I can see a good brake that reduces recoil by 40-50% helping a lot, but does a suppressor? @Formidilosus , have you actually measured hit rate percentage increases when using a suppressor?

I do not want a short barrel and would be fine with an extra 7" hanging off my 22-24" barrel. Considering the barrel length I'd be using, would the shot noise amplitude be even lower than what guys using an 18" barrel experience due to lower muzzle exit pressure?

Last, since I want to keep my barrel length at 22-24" and I use either factory Tikka contour or as close as I can get, is it possible to have a 1/2x28 thread put on the end of a Tikka super lite barrel without cutting the barrel back, then using an adapter to get to 5/8x24 threads? I know the 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter is possible and I'm aware that some people say it's not safe etc, but I'm wondering specifically about doing this with an uncut Tikka barrel. In my research, it seems to be possible and fine but I'm not sure since very few people want 29" of barrel to manage so there's less documented experiences of that to read about.

Lastly , I found that Witt Machine sells a clamp on thread adapter to 5/8x24" for $60. That sounds awesome for avoiding having to have a barrel threaded, but it's extra weight and of course there's the chance it will work lose. Has anyone used one, what's the weight, and how has your experience been?

I'm primarily looking at a tbac ultra 7 direct thread in 30 cal to be used on a 30-284 and 6.5cm, both have barrel lengths of 24".

I will either be starting to save for this, or for a 223 for cheaper practice. The 223 doesn't make a ton of sense since I have a 17hmr, am reloading my 6.5cm for about 0.65/round and it would take a lot of rounds to recoup the $800 for another rifle and possibly another scope.

- Regardless of the recoil numbers an ultra 7 will make the shot experience much better than bare muzzle. An example would be a 6.5 creed bare muzzle in a light tikka package is difficult to spot shots with in anything but a really solid prone. Add on a suppressor and that changes, it now becomes a gun I can spot most shots with when shooting off solid objects. As caliber gets bigger it becomes even easier, but honestly anything above that short action 308 sized cartridge is still going to be bit much.

-A longer barrel will be quieter than a short one all else being equal.

- Depends on what caliber it is? 30 cal and 1/2” threads gets thin, but many do it with no issues. Most smiths will have zero issues threading your creedmoor 1/2”. I’d get hub or CB ultra 7. Thread your rifle 1/2” and use a hub direct thread mount or have Tbac install a face mounted brake for CB.

-I wouldn’t touch a clamp on suppressor or brake with a 10’ pole.


Regarding long barrels and suppressors, on light rifles; balance can becomes an issue. Just be aware when trying to stay light and keep a long barrel you may throw off the balance of your rifle.

 

[HighUintas]

That brings up a couple further questions.

Does the CB mount or other similar brake mount further reduce recoil noticeably? Or does that brake become completely ineffective after the suppressor is screwed on?

Is the main benefit of using the HUB mount the ability to change threads options easily? It seems that a barrel thread adapter would accomplish the same thing while possibly being a little cheaper, right?

It seems that tbac offers no options for 1/2x28 larger than 223 even for CB. So if I had them do a face mount CB it seems they'd only do it by cutting the barrel back.

 

[Lawnboi]

That brings up a couple further questions.

Does the CB mount or other similar brake mount further reduce recoil noticeably? Or does that brake become completely ineffective after the suppressor is screwed on?

Is the main benefit of using the HUB mount the ability to change threads options easily? It seems that a barrel thread adapter would accomplish the same thing while possibly being a little cheaper, right?

It seems that tbac offers no options for 1/2x28 larger than 223 even for CB. So if I had them do a face mount CB it seems they'd only do it by cutting the barrel back.

The brake in the can does nothing for recoil. It does supposedly aid in longevity of your blast baffle not that it’s a huge deal for most guys.

The hub or cb allows you to use different thread pitches if needed. They both are basically the same thing, a piece that goes between your muzzle and the suppressor that can be threaded differently. The cb you get the benefit of more contact area via the taper, and a semi permanent piece your attaching to your barrel. With the hub and DT adapter, your getting the opposite, the hub adapter over time is just going to carbon lock to your suppressor till it’s time to wrench it off.

CB can be more expensive. Due to more brakes needed for more guns if that’s what you have.

I wouldn’t buy any DT suppressors, most out there that are popular are hub now, that way you can make it whatever direct thread pattern you want.

I’m thousands of rounds into the CB system without complaints.


Face mount will square up to the face of your muzzle. They do it in house and would cut to whatever you want. I don’t think they would need to shorten the barrel any more than they would for a Normal thread job, but that’s a question for them. They are quick to email and phone if you have Tbac specific questions.

I actually own 2 gen 2 ultra 7s. Great suppressor and Tbac is a great company.

 

[HighUintas]

Thanks for all the answers!

 

[Bluefish]

The brake in the can does nothing for recoil. It does supposedly aid in longevity of your blast baffle not that it’s a huge deal for most guys.

Note that a few cans like the scythe have brakes as the front of the can. I have not tried one yet, but I hear they do make a difference that can be detected. The down side is they are louder. If you search you should find a test or two.

 

[Lawnboi]

Note that a few cans like the scythe have brakes as the front of the can. I have not tried one yet, but I hear they do make a difference that can be detected. The down side is they are louder. If you search you should find a test or two.

I for thunderbeast on the way with a brake on it, interested to see if it’s a viable option for hunting. Main reason I bought it was for comp shooting

 

[HighUintas]

I just found the scythe review thread today. I'm now thinking that might be the route I go if I get one, since it seems to be super quiet especially without the brake and is slightly shorter and lighter than a tbac 7.

One comment Ryan Avery made though.... He said he wasn't sure about how the scythe might hold up for high round counts. I don't know if he means rate of fire or longevity of the can itself. If it has the potential to wear out faster than others ... That is less desirable.


Also, after reading tbac thread chart... I can see why they recommend not using 1/2x28 on a 30cal. That leaves only about 0.070 or so barrel wall on each side. That's crazy thin!

 

[Valsport]

24" sporter profile barrel and a suppressor aren't ingredients for accuracy and precision. POI suppressed and unsuppressed will change and harmonics will change. 20" heavier profile barrel. Just dial a couple more clicks. Done.

 

[HighUintas]

Here's a question.

I was talking to a local machinist that does barrel threading and chambering on the side. He said that if I want to do 5/8 thread on the Tikka barrel without cutting it back (0.630 at muzzle) he could thread it to that, then install a collar threaded all the way on to end of threads, rocksett it since there's no shoulder for that to tighten against, then true up the face of that collar for a shoulder for the suppressor mounting.

Does that sound kosher? Would there be any worry of the collar coming loose since there's no shoulder to tighten it against? I wouldn't think so if you snug it tight to the end of the threads and use rocksett

 

[Lawnboi]

Here's a question.

I was talking to a local machinist that does barrel threading and chambering on the side. He said that if I want to do 5/8 thread on the Tikka barrel without cutting it back (0.630 at muzzle) he could thread it to that, then install a collar threaded all the way on to end of threads, rocksett it since there's no shoulder for that to tighten against, then true up the face of that collar for a shoulder for the suppressor mounting.

Does that sound kosher? Would there be any worry of the collar coming loose since there's no shoulder to tighten it against? I wouldn't think so if you snug it tight to the end of the threads and use rocksett

Lot of guys have been doing similar on here.

For me it would come down to what suppressor I’m buying. Have you decided that? Because that’s really going to determine what your options are.

 

[HighUintas]

Lot of guys have been doing similar on here.

For me it would come down to what suppressor I’m buying. Have you decided that? Because that’s really going to determine what your options are.

Scythe ti. Figured I'd go with the cheapest and lightest option to mount up on that 5/8 direct thread, while trying to maximize thread size on my barrel, thread adapter or not