.223 for bear, mountain goat, deer, elk, and moose.

Out of curiosity, what problem are you solving for using small calibers on large game? Is this for a small framed shooter or something else? I ask as I personally would not consider this proper, common practice or recommended by those with elk experience.

Honest question. Not trolling you.
Thanks
To answer your question best you should go back to the beginning of this thread, lots of good info!
 
Out of curiosity, what problem are you solving for using small calibers on large game? Is this for a small framed shooter or something else? I ask as I personally would not consider this proper, common practice or recommended by those with elk experience.

Honest question. Not trolling you.
Thanks

Listen to this podcast and the next (episode #470) with an open mind… all of the theories and explanations are there. Then come back here for 558 pages of proof that it’s not B.S.
 
Out of curiosity, what problem are you solving for using small calibers on large game? Is this for a small framed shooter or something else? I ask as I personally would not consider this proper, common practice or recommended by those with elk experience.

Honest question. Not trolling you.
Thanks

At a minimum, go to page one, look for the cheat sheet, and see the results.

And most, buy a tikka in 223, shoot some high quality projectiles with a reliable and well mounted scope at a few critters and see the results yourself.

But in all seriousness, cheap to shoot and light recoiling rifles mean you will shoot more. You shoot more you get better. You get better, you put more well placed shots on animals. Well placed shots on animals make em die. More animals die with less fuss, you have more fun hunting.

Your success rate goes up, you shoot more, and you can teach new shooters or kids on your super gentle and cheap to shoot gun.

Aside from all of that, there is some terminal ballistics to study, and if you read the thread you’ll probably be surprised at how impressive the 223 caliber can be on big game, and you will probably have a lot of long held beliefs that will be challenged. Just approach with an open mind, and a fresh cup of coffee for a few weeks, and you will probably be a believer.

At the end of the day, a good bullet will never overcome lack of training or unreliable equipment, so make sure you take a look at some of the training threads, scope mounting, and drop test threads.

Cheers from Texas.
 
Out of curiosity, what problem are you solving for using small calibers on large game? Is this for a small framed shooter or something else? I ask as I personally would not consider this proper, common practice or recommended by those with elk experience.

Honest question. Not trolling you.
Thanks
Been hunting elk for over 20 years now. Killed them with arrows, muzzleloaderz, rifles large and small. Guess what, they all work. It's quite nice shooting 6mms and 22 cals. Have not killed an elk with a 22 cal yet, but I have with a 243 and it worked just as well as a 7mm magnum. Plus the evidence you can find around here is overwhelming. Tell you what, when it doesn't work, you can tell me what I should use.
 
I’ve got an 8 twist tikka 22-250.. it shoots 77gr tmk’s well… It doesn’t like 80gr eldx. Literally 3 inch groups with them
What powder are you using? I have the rifle being delivered next week. I have tmks and was thinking of buying a box of eldx, but if yours doesn't like them mine may not either. I was planning on starting with h4350 or possibly staball match. The staball match did not work well for accuracy in my 6 ARC though. Thanks
 
I’ve got an 8 twist tikka 22-250.. it shoots 77gr tmk’s well… It doesn’t like 80gr eldx. Literally 3 inch groups with them
This is, unfortunately, what we see in 80 ELDX. Especially factory hornady ammo. The faster you shoot 80 ELDXs the more they want to **** off for some reason. Some lots have been good. Most have been 2.5 MOA at best. This is thousands of rounds with multiple barrels, not a box or two here and there.

Hand loaded 80 ELDXs with certain barrels have been in the 1.25ish range or slightly better with properly stress relieved and stabilized barrels.
 
What powder are you using? I have the rifle being delivered next week. I have tmks and was thinking of buying a box of eldx, but if yours doesn't like them mine may not either. I was planning on starting with h4350 or possibly staball match. The staball match did not work well for accuracy in my 6 ARC though. Thanks
I used h4350 for the tmks and eldx.. it liked the tmks but did not like the eldx’s at all…
My buddy also has a tikka 22-250, he has had good luck with h380 and the 77gr tmks ..
I loaded some 55gr Sierra GK bthp with h380 and it shot them extremely well
 
In case it is helpful, I have been putting together a spreadsheet of approximate speeds, group sizes, etc. for various factory 223 rounds. Take the group size with a huge grain of salt. All shot very well, and only for a few did I measure with great precision. This should all be regarded as indicative.

All shots were taken with two factory 20” Tikkas (the “Ranahan” model, with iron sights removed. A picture of the two rifles in question is attached. Ignore the wonky mount on the one in the KRG. That scope doesn’t live on that particular rifle.

Speeds were chronographed with the Garmin. Elevation is just above sea level.

I plan to add to this over time.

(Strangely, the Hornady Superformance 223 loaded with 53 Vmax would not fire, despite the firing pin creating significant indentations in the primers. The same rounds would fire just fine in a friend’s AR. I’ll try another box at some point.)

All the best.
 

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There’s 10 shots in this group. I wanted to get some solid velocity numbers for my boys gun. I shot 5 and he shot 5. He hit 3 in the bullseye and the 2 in the orange. All from about 60 yards. Not bad for a 5 1/2 year old.

16” tikka with a wolf hunter averaged 2630 for the AAC 75bthp.
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