1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

Their books give a lot of drills you can train at home and then verify on the range. Latest one is here: https://www.amazon.com/Baseline-Dryfire-Guide-Red-Mastery/dp/B0G48V1JJ2/ref=sr_1_1
I have the book and am working through it. I plan to follow it, especially with building a routine.

I have also put my Mantis on my C, although the rail seems to be a tad wider (maybe 0.1") from the pic rail on my P320. I am looking at a magazine base plate option, but not sure if that location provides the same feedback as having it on the rail.

I am still too much of a novice to start timing myself, but Ben mentions early on the importance of using a timer. One more rabbit hole - but I'm trying to pull back on "must have gear" and focus on the fundamentals. Which is one reason I'm holding off on getting the red dot. (I do have a red dot on a different Sig, so I may do some drills with it as well.)

Realistically I’m more of a gun nerd and collector than a shooter, but I’m trying to move the balance more towards shooting and simplify things. At this point I pretty much use Form’s guidance as a starting point, but I like to test everything when possible. I am posting this in case my experience might help others starting to take pistol shooting more seriously like the OP.
I am in the same boat but trying to do the same. Thanks for the detailed posts.
So I went down the rabbit hole, trying to start out affordably to get my feet wet…you can guess about how that went.
The struggle is real
 
Understandable. And commendable that you actually used a “test” to see the differences.

For 1911’s- the KC Custom roll trigger kit is the one for performance carry/field guns. Drop in kit almost always, and is fantastic.
I checked out KC's website and noticed that he sold kits as well as lone sears for the roll trigger. Any issues that you might see from someone just buying the sear and installing with their own hammer? Or do you just recommend getting the kit to avoid any technical/safetey issues?
 
I checked out KC's website and noticed that he sold kits as well as lone sears for the roll trigger. Any issues that you might see from someone just buying the sear and installing with their own hammer? Or do you just recommend getting the kit to avoid any technical/safetey issues?

Get the kit. Don’t mess around with fitting and heat treat.
 
CZ themselves acknowledges that they are really meant as DA/SA guns- which is interesting as they have no decocker (where they came from didn’t carry chambered pistols way back when). The safety is too small to actuate as a thumb safety. Their SA guns have proper thumb safeties.
None of that is meant as you can’t carry one in condition 1- I have carried Shadow 2’s C&L a hunch, but the total system isn’t setup for it. From thumb safety size, to no grip safety.

Also, find out if CZ Shadows are actually drop safe….
Yeah, the shadow 2's specifically were designed as uspsa/ipsca competitive pistols to be run as da/sa. And they are dang good at it....

I don't have one, but I don't think they have a firing pin block?? I could be wrong.
 
Which is one reason I'm holding off on getting the red dot. (I do have a red dot on a different Sig, so I may do some drills with it as well.)

I can't stress enough the value in using a red-dot in mastering your trigger press. Even if you decided to carry irons-only, the RDS will reveal stuff you just can't perceive or notice with irons during the press. They'd be worth a few hundred alone just as a training device.
 
I can't stress enough the value in using a red-dot in mastering your trigger press. Even if you decided to carry irons-only, the RDS will reveal stuff you just can't perceive or notice with irons during the press. They'd be worth a few hundred alone just as a training device.
OK - this foils my attempt to "master the basics" first. I was telling myself, "you can hold off on adding the RDS and just focus on the basics first. Then get the RDS." Yes, I bought more magazines. And a Speed Beez. But I was trying to show some restraint. For once.

I am getting some feedback on trigger press from the Mantis (although I realize it's not the same as live fire). I will continue to work on that as I retread the rabbit hole of RDS options. Or just go ahead and buy the Acro.

I haven't even shot the pistol yet! But I did lube it up with that sweet Cherry Balmz.
 
I was telling myself, "you can hold off on adding the RDS and just focus on the basics first. Then get the RDS." Yes, I bought more magazines. And a Speed Beez. But I was trying to show some restraint. For once.

Lol, I hear ya. I usually end up spending more on accessories, mags, holsters, etc for a new handgun, than on the gun itself.
 
I can't stress enough the value in using a red-dot in mastering your trigger press. Even if you decided to carry irons-only, the RDS will reveal stuff you just can't perceive or notice with irons during the press. They'd be worth a few hundred alone just as a training device.
Would this work even with a super cheap RDS?
 
Shot the s2 compact starting in double action. Was more difficult to get the timing down
I had and liked the S2C but ended up selling it and buying the S2 Carry for the decocker. They are great pistols. For me, double action trigger training has really helped all aspects of pistol shooting. Very accurate guns and nice shooting!
 
Does anybody have any recommendations for 15 round magazines (yeah Colorado!!!!) for a Prodigy DS standard size, not the compact?

I know that calcompliantmags.com has pinned mags, just seeing if there was anything else reliable out there.

Thanks
 
So, how are the Kimber DS Warrior 1911's doing? I mean if ya found a Kimber Warrior DS and Tisas 2011 Carry or Full size, what are yall choosing? I thought I read Kimber was coming out with a 4.25 Warrior, but now I cant find any info, course I could have got it mixed up with something else.
 
Would this work even with a super cheap RDS?

In theory, yes, though I'd be sure to look through the sight before buying it to check for bloom, especially if you have any astigmatism or eye issues. Generally speaking, the cheaper the RDS, the lower the quality the emitter and the lens coatings. Learned this the hard way - on paper, one of the holosun enclosed pistol sights seemed excellent for a CCW gun, but once it arrived, it was literally unusable for me, the bloom was so bad. Green dots also seem to be worse for it than red dots. Thus far, I've been 100% satisfied with crispness of the dots on 2 Trijicon pistol RDS's, and an Aimpoint M4S.

As long as the dot's fine though, yes, in dry fire a cheap optic should be just as good as expensive in learning trigger press.

That said...there's just no replacement for quality, especially when you end up spending more eventually to do it right the second time. I can't give a recommendation on what cheap ones might work, but I know I've never had a Trijicon fail in about 50k rounds across 1 RMR and 1 RMR HD. Admittedly though, my data set on RDS's is pretty small, with just the two pistol optics.
 
I can see a green dot a hell of a lot easier than a red dot.

Also always bought the 2-3moa stuff. Then tried a 6moa dot hated it to start. But honestly its growing on me fast.

When you say green's easier to see - we talking ability to pick up quickly, different light, etc, or are you getting less bloom with green?
 
In theory, yes, though I'd be sure to look through the sight before buying it to check for bloom, especially if you have any astigmatism or eye issues. Generally speaking, the cheaper the RDS, the lower the quality the emitter and the lens coatings. Learned this the hard way - on paper, one of the holosun enclosed pistol sights seemed excellent for a CCW gun, but once it arrived, it was literally unusable for me, the bloom was so bad. Green dots also seem to be worse for it than red dots. Thus far, I've been 100% satisfied with crispness of the dots on 2 Trijicon pistol RDS's, and an Aimpoint M4S.

As long as the dot's fine though, yes, in dry fire a cheap optic should be just as good as expensive in learning trigger press.

That said...there's just no replacement for quality, especially when you end up spending more eventually to do it right the second time. I can't give a recommendation on what cheap ones might work, but I know I've never had a Trijicon fail in about 50k rounds across 1 RMR and 1 RMR HD. Admittedly though, my data set on RDS's is pretty small, with just the two pistol optics.
I would only be using it for dry fire if I went cheap. Thanks!
 
So, how are the Kimber DS Warrior 1911's doing? I mean if ya found a Kimber Warrior DS and Tisas 2011 Carry or Full size, what are yall choosing? I thought I read Kimber was coming out with a 4.25 Warrior, but now I cant find any info, course I could have got it mixed up with something else.

Seeing positive reports on the warriors. Although they still have an internal extractor vs the external in the 2k11s. Not sure if that’s worth the $800 difference though.
 
One thing that struck me in some of the early announcements / 'reviews' of the Warrior was people talking about them being a model that is 'less than' the 2K11 - phrases such as 'cut some costs', 'reduced features' and so on ... the overall impression was the Warriors could be significantly 'less than' the 2K11s in features and performance.

I guess time will tell if any of that means problems for the Warrior platform as such. And whether future reviews talk about the Warrior for what it is, rather than it being compared semi-negatively to the 2K11.

You'd hope that Kimber having apparently taken on feedback from some experienced heavy users and modifying the 2K would mean that they have a lot of experience to put into the Warrior. In some ways, this might be a better approach than when a company makes a 'good enough' base model, and then tries for something advanced, but falls short. Will be interesting to see the longer-term reviews.
 
I’m pretty impressed my ds warrior so far, for me it’s just outclassed by the staccato c. So far, I’d say mine is worth the money. It feels like what the prodigy should have been. Trigger is better imo than my staccato P and slide to frame fit is about the same. It also came with an rmr optics plate. Could be sprung a little on the stiff side.

As far as cutting costs, the grip is nice, trigger is good, and the tolerances seem tight. Looks like it even has the marvel cut to smooth the ride over the disconnector, which is pretty fancy. I read somewhere that Kimber sent some employees incognito to Bob Marvel’s classes, so maybe they learned something. The sights are better than most guns in its price range (blacked out rear, tritium front). I think they cut costs with cerakote, aluminum frame, and going with a bushing design. I’d like to find a reason to keep it, but I just can’t justify keeping it and the C. I’ve been shopping around for 1911/2011 for a while and I think it would be tough to find a current production 1911/2011 that is better built for the price. That said, this is a sample of one. Also, it’s on the lighter side, so if you want a heavier/plusher gun you might want something different.
 
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