Zeroing rifle in high humidity

[SDHNTR]

Perhaps you missed my point: basic competency as a travelling hunter means you check your zero once you get local to ensure there have been no zero shifts during transit and to deal with any the rifle may have experienced.

The conversation above matters only as a part of theory or intellectual interest if the OP is exercising basic competence as a travelling hunter, in checking his zero once he arrives.

I’m a travelling Hunter and I generally do not do this. At least not anymore. I used to, in the days of Leupold scopes and mounts (or Talley). I’ve found now it’s entirely unnecessary with quality scopes and mounts. Unless I knowingly dropped the rifle/scope, hard, I have complete confidence my zero is exactly where I left it.

 

[Justin Crossley]

An interesting question, but it really doesn't matter...because in travelling 1/3 the way across the country, you were of course going to check the zero locally anyhow, right?

I don't.

In the last few weeks, I zeroed my rifle at home (500 ft in WA), drove to central OR and shot a two-day NRL Hunter match without adjusting zero, drove home, then drove to ND and shot a two-day NRL Hunter match there. The only "checking" I did in ND was to shoot a target at 750 yards the day before the match. I didn't check zero and won the Open Light division.

I'm leaving today for the match in Cody, Wyoming, and will check my rifle at a distance. I don't plan to check zero unless I see a problem.

Once you have a proven system, you don't have to check zero every time you put your rifle in a case and drive it somewhere. That's something we all grew up doing because we didn't know our scopes all sucked.

 

[RockAndSage]

I don't.

In the last few weeks, I zeroed my rifle at home (5k ft in WA), drove to central OR and shot a two-day NRL Hunter match without adjusting zero, drove home, then drove to ND and shot a two-day NRL Hunter match there. The only "checking" I did in ND was to shoot a target at 750 yards the day before the match. I didn't check zero and won the Open Light division.

I'm leaving today for the match in Cody, Wyoming, and will check my rifle at a distance. I don't plan to check zero unless I see a problem.

Once you have a proven system, you don't have to check zero every time you put your rifle in a case and drive it somewhere. That's something we all grew up doing because we didn't know our scopes all sucked.

Let's see - the WKR above you, and you a Rokslide admin who does NRL Hunter matches...are you saying you are in any way representative of either the base of knowledge or using the same equipment a common travelling hunter would use?

Neither of you are. That doesn't make you an incompetent hunter, it makes you uncommonly competent - and not the people that rule of thumb is meant for. Or needed for.

Right?

 

[SDHNTR]

Let's see - the WKR above you, and you a Rokslide admin who does NRL Hunter matches...are you saying you are in any way representative of either the base of knowledge or using the same equipment a common travelling hunter would use?

Neither of you are. That doesn't make you an incompetent hunter, it makes you uncommonly competent - and not the people that rule of thumb is meant for. Or needed for.

Right?

Fair point I suppose.

 

[northernalpine]

I’m a travelling Hunter and I generally do not do this. At least not anymore. I used to, in the days of Leupold scopes and mounts (or Talley). I’ve found now it’s entirely unnecessary with quality scopes and mounts. Unless I knowingly dropped the rifle/scope, hard, I have complete confidence my zero is exactly where I left it.

Bingo

 

[Macintosh]

I check my zero when its easy or when its warranted. Warranted means something different to me on a new scope than on one I have used and checked and have history with. I live at 700’ altitude and shoot mostly between 1500-3000’, in a relatively humid environment. When Ive traveled to Co and Wy to hunt, Ive checked zero, in part because the scuff marks and wear on the rifle case indicate someone tossed it out of an airplane onto the runway, and at least once I watched it get thrown over 15’, hit the conveyor, and fall 10’ onto the concrete. Since I got rid of “the scopes that shall not be named” none have shifted zero even from that, but if Im checking dope it takes an extra 3 shots to check zero so I do it. I dont when I drive anymore.

Just to pile on: you can CHECK your zero when you get there if you feel its warranted, but a 100-yard zero wont shift because of the altitude and humidity. Unless your scope lost zero in transit you wont have to adjust your zero.

 

[Cactus kid]

Really just adding emphasis that the rifles 100 yard zero will not be noticeably affected by elevation or humidity.

Here are the first two shots I fired in Nepal, elevation around 13,000 feet. The wooden dowels are what they used to mark my bullet holes. This rifle was zeroed in Texas, at 600 feet and high humidity.

 

[HighUintas]

Really just adding emphasis that the rifles 100 yard zero will not be noticeably affected by elevation or humidity.

Here are the first two shots I fired in Nepal, elevation around 13,000 feet. The wooden dowels are what they used to mark my bullet holes. This rifle was zeroed in Texas, at 600 feet and high humidity.

How high up did you hunt there?

 

[Cactus kid]

How high up did you hunt there?

Just shy of 17,000 feet multiple times. The mountains were much taller, but the saddles we used seem to all be around 16-17000 feet. The sheep were between 12,000 and 16,000.