A new rifle user

[Sophiejacs]

Where do you guys zero your rifle in at, 1 inch high at 100, 300, 250, etc? And do you choose different zero's for different calibers?

I currently have my .243 at 1 inch high at 100 yds which allows me to hold dead on from 0-300 yds with my current loads.
For my .250 savage I zero at 100 exactly as I use this rifle primarily for super brushy country where I won't even have much of a chance of shooting at 150 yds, much less beyond it.

I am setting up a 300 win mag right now and hoping for some input.

 

[rabbithuntr]

Sell it
If you are gonna dial 100 yards is great. If you are not then you can set it 1.5” high at 100 or so. If you want to get really sophisticated you can go on jbm ballistics and use their point blank range for your rifle/load.

 

[rookieforever33]

It varies. My .223 and .308 are zaroed at 200. My .350 legend is 150. My .22 is 50. My shotgun is 40. Welcome to Rokslide

 

[Sophiejacs]

Sell it
If you are gonna dial 100 yards is great. If you are not then you can set it 1.5” high at 100 or so. If you want to get really sophisticated you can go on jbm ballistics and use their point blank range for your rifle/load.

Will try that and see how it goes
Just decided to go into hunting for now

 

[TaperPin]

Where do you guys zero your rifle in at, 1 inch high at 100, 300, 250, etc? And do you choose different zero's for different calibers?

I currently have my .243 at 1 inch high at 100 yds which allows me to hold dead on from 0-300 yds with my current loads.
For my .250 savage I zero at 100 exactly as I use this rifle primarily for super brushy country where I won't even have much of a chance of shooting at 150 yds, much less beyond it.

I am setting up a 300 win mag right now and hoping for some input.

A 243 is a nice compliment to the 300 mag since trajectory of both is quite similar, so sight them both in the same way.

 

[Oakman]

Welcome aboard! You’ll find your own comfortable zero with time. Even if you stick with a 100 yard zero, you’ll still be well within the kill zone at around 200 yards for most medium to big game.
When it comes to longer-range shooting, some folks prefer a 200 yard zero, while others go with 100 or 150, it all comes down to your DOPE and how well you know your rifle and load.

Practice, practice, practice, that’s the real key. Best of luck out there!

 

[The Guide]

Where do you guys zero your rifle in at, 1 inch high at 100, 300, 250, etc? And do you choose different zero's for different calibers?

I currently have my .243 at 1 inch high at 100 yds which allows me to hold dead on from 0-300 yds with my current loads.
For my .250 savage I zero at 100 exactly as I use this rifle primarily for super brushy country where I won't even have much of a chance of shooting at 150 yds, much less beyond it.

I am setting up a 300 win mag right now and hoping for some input.

What is your primary use for your 300WM? Distance, animals hunted, and planned bullets to be used? You'll need the actual load velocity to get accurate maximum point blank range.

Jay

 

[Sophiejacs]

It varies. My .223 and .308 are zaroed at 200. My .350 legend is 150. My .22 is 50. My shotgun is 40. Welcome to Rokslide

Thanks for the welcome note and also i don’t mind a trainer
I watched a lot of videos on youtube to set it and now my head is on fire

 

[Sophiejacs]

What is your primary use for your 300WM? Distance, animals hunted, and planned bullets to be used? You'll need the actual load velocity to get accurate maximum point blank range.

Jay

I want something that takes my mind off divorce so i decided hunting would be best and now i feel like i might regret it

 

[cmahoney]

Use the point blank zero feature on this calculator.

JBM - Calculations

www.jbmballistics.com

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Pilsner]

IF you are using a ballistic app then the 100 Yard zero is the gold standard.
If you are using MPBR then it varies.
If you dont know what those terms mean then use 100 Yard zero.

 

[The Guide]

I want something that takes my mind off divorce so i decided hunting would be best and now i feel like i might regret it

I understand. Just trying to help you narrow down your choices. If you are going to shoot longer distances where you need to dial your scope for a proper hold (range, enter distance into a ballistic calculator, dial your solution, aim, shoot) I'd use a 100 yard zero. If you are going to use a BDC reticle scope, find the zero using your actual velocity that matches the BDC reticle based on dot spacing. If you are going to use a basic duplex scope find your velocity and then enter it into a ballistic calculator (there are free use ones online) and manipulate your zero with your velocity to get it so you have an arc that rises to +3.5" above line of site and then drops to -3.5" inches. That distance at -3.5" after the zero distance is your maximum point blank range where you can aim at any target from muzzle to that distance and never hit further than 3.5" from the point of aim +/- your group size.

In the example below, I used a 190 grain Nosler AccuBond LR with a 2800 fps velocity and made the zero range 265 yards. This gives me a bullet that will not travel more than 3.5 inches above or below the line of site from the muzzle to just over 310 yards. This gives you a MPBR of 310 yards.

Jay

 

[Sophiejacs]

I understand. Just trying to help you narrow down your choices. If you are going to shoot longer distances where you need to dial your scope for a proper hold (range, enter distance into a ballistic calculator, dial your solution, aim, shoot) I'd use a 100 yard zero. If you are going to use a BDC reticle scope, find the zero using your actual velocity that matches the BDC reticle based on dot spacing. If you are going to use a basic duplex scope find your velocity and then enter it into a ballistic calculator (there are free use ones online) and manipulate your zero with your velocity to get it so you have an arc that rises to +3.5" above line of site and then drops to -3.5" inches. That distance at -3.5" after the zero distance is your maximum point blank range where you can aim at any target from muzzle to that distance and never hit further than 3.5" from the point of aim +/- your group size.

In the example below, I used a 190 grain Nosler AccuBond LR with a 2800 fps velocity and made the zero range 265 yards. This gives me a bullet that will not travel more than 3.5 inches above or below the line of site from the muzzle to just over 310 yards. This gives you a MPBR of 310 yards.

Jay



View attachment 905320

Thanks a lot Jay
Really really helpful

 

[Ross]

Zeroed at 250 with ballistic dots to 550 setup by leupold in their custom shop.

 

[sniper20]

The answer is a question: how do you plan to hunt?

I have often come across this conundrum and figured it out. It's personal preference. There is no right or wrong answer. I personally zero most of my rifles at 100 yards, range my target, and dial if it's anything past 250. Otherwise, I hold over.

For my 30-30, I zero it at 150 yards or so (about 2" high at 100 yards) with a scope or with iron sights. That way, I know at closer range, it's hitting. At longer range, give or take 200 yards for a 30-30, it's still hitting. If it's 300 yards, then I'm guessing and probably won't take a shot unless I'm pretty comfortable with it.

The disadvantage to dialing when hunting is the fact that it takes time... If you have a quick shot available to you, and you know it's within your max point-blank range, then use that method. If you know you will have time to range and dial, then do that. It's whatever you are comfortable with.