Your Top FIXED blade BH

Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
751
Location
Australia
The broadhead I've killed the most game with so far is the Crafted Archery Aero 1 150gn. It's been my go-to for about 12 months or so, I believe. I like it a lot and it kills everything pretty quickly when the shot is placed right but the same can be said for stacks of broadheads.

Likely going to use the Extract 150gn once I use up the last of my Aero 1's in my compound. They look like they'll be a great head for me.

The Kayuga Pilot Cuts in 125gn were great killers as well.

Will likely go between Crafted Archery Coverts or Extracts in 200gn on my trad bows shortly.
 
Joined
Mar 28, 2014
Messages
94
Location
VA
I've had good luck with the Slick Trick Viper Tricks for the last few years. I've also had good luck and good flight with the Magnus Stinger 4 blade. My son shoots the Magnus Black Hornet with great luck as well.
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9,702
Location
Shenandoah Valley
I've seen that claim that you need a bigger hole...but then I've shot 2 blades and those tapered 3 blade designs for decades and I've seen so many critters go down quick...and in sight...I don't think the size of the hole has much to do with it.

I do think effortless penetration without them feeling the shot...and 2 holes seems to give me the best results.

I think there's just too many factors involved on a blood trail.


A mechanical cutting a big hole, hitting them like a baseball bat and they run like their tail is on fire. They might be loosing 3 times as much blood per second as a small 2 blade, but when they are covering ground 8 times faster, blood trail is gonna seemingly suck.


I do agree the small efficient heads tend to cause the animal to not spook as bad, causing them to hang around, or only jump 20-30 yards then ponder what was happening.

Usually it seems an animal is on its feet with mobility for 20-40 seconds, sometimes on their feet longer but no gas to go anywhere.


Past 7-10 years I think I have lost one big game animal with a bow, it was a small cut on contact, hit a little further back than I would have liked. Had blood, but lost it, never did find it. Best I could tell it was liver, I can't help but think a bigger hole would have helped.


Even with mechanical heads, a fair number of animals I have been able to stick a second time after they do the wtf jump/dash.

Everyone has their experiences that takes over their beliefs.
 

WCB

WKR
Joined
Jun 12, 2019
Messages
3,638
I'm going back to the good ole' 100gr Standard Slick Trick for 99% of my hunting. Been shooting Rocket Steel Heads, RAD Rivals, Dead Meats, and a couple other here and there the last 6 years or so (mostly the Rocket Steel Heads).

I started shooting the Standard Slick Tricks in college and killed piles of game with them...then maybe got bored and just started trying different heads. 90+% no issues with really just little stuff that bugged me. Just got back from a Moose hunt in Alberta. Got lucky and killed a good bull Moose and a nice 6x6 elk with the Slick Tricks and along with me just shooting really well this year, the heads just plain old worked. Blew through the Moose at 28ish yards. Shot the elk decently quartering to me at 40yards and buried up to the fletching. Hit him right in the crease of the shoulder both lungs, liver, and stuck between his last rip and hip on the far side. Bull went 200ish on a dead run and died...good as blood as to be expected with a single hole 1/2 up the body. The Slick Tricks just plain work.

My top 2 fixed heads:
#1 Standard Slick Trick
#2 Viper Trick

I shoot mainly 50-90 yards.
 

S.Clancy

WKR
Joined
Jan 28, 2015
Messages
2,495
Location
Montana
I think there's just too many factors involved on a blood trail.


A mechanical cutting a big hole, hitting them like a baseball bat and they run like their tail is on fire. They might be loosing 3 times as much blood per second as a small 2 blade, but when they are covering ground 8 times faster, blood trail is gonna seemingly suck.


I do agree the small efficient heads tend to cause the animal to not spook as bad, causing them to hang around, or only jump 20-30 yards then ponder what was happening.

Usually it seems an animal is on its feet with mobility for 20-40 seconds, sometimes on their feet longer but no gas to go anywhere.


Past 7-10 years I think I have lost one big game animal with a bow, it was a small cut on contact, hit a little further back than I would have liked. Had blood, but lost it, never did find it. Best I could tell it was liver, I can't help but think a bigger hole would have helped.


Even with mechanical heads, a fair number of animals I have been able to stick a second time after they do the wtf jump/dash.

Everyone has their experiences that takes over their beliefs.
The big 2.0"+ broadheads definitely get the animals sprinting after the hit. But they die so freaking quick. The animals that run the farthest have been antelope, and they barely make 100-125 yds
 

MuleyBuck

FNG
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
38
Have shot bulls with a lot of broadheads. QAD Exodus had one of my best blood trails and shortest recoveries. I always hand sharpen all my broadheads before hunting.

I’ve shot expendables and had terrible blood trails sometimes and fixed and had great, and vice versa. A lot of factors go into a good blood trail and sometimes they just don’t bleed well.

The only fixed I’ve found that out shoots the Exodus is the TOTA 1”. Thing flies like a dart, and I love that square hole it punches through an animal. Hits with my field tips out to 90 and bucks wind pretty well in the vented. I haven’t shot Slick Trick Standards yet though but have read lots of good things, I just decided to go with the solid, 1-piece head this year. Maybe Slick Tricks next year.
 
Joined
Sep 29, 2023
Messages
71
I killed a bull this year with a QAD exodus perfect double lung shot, and the arrow and bh broke ribs on both sides entrance and exit bull ran 50 yards In sight and died. The exodus works great for me and I have great flight out to 100yards

70lb Mathew’s lift/ 29.5 DL/ 486grain arrow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
908
Magnus black hornet ser razor
Iron will
3 blade cut throat
Killed with all 3 and would have zero issues taking them to the woods


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Okie101

FNG
Joined
Oct 8, 2024
Messages
8
With lots of great heads out there..
Top 2 favorite..
Red Feather Phoenix 3 blade single bevel
Magnus Black hornet ser razor
 

GreggB

FNG
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
32
Been killing deer with Magnus Black Hornets since they came out. I can honestly say the blood trails have been every bit as good or better that the Rages I had been shooting. As my grandson said last year on a short 60 yard blood trail, "gramps, looks like someone tipped over a bucket of red paint".
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
5,383
Location
oregon coast
I just killed my elk with a QAD exodus and while he died, I didn't like how long it took. Full pass through, right where it should have been placed. I won't use them again. Not much blood.
Not here to argue about QAD, just simply looking to get some ideas to try next.

I shoot from 60-90 a lot. Flight is important. No mechs.

80 bow/450 gr/306 FPS

TIA
No argument here, but your experience was an anomaly, they are a 1.25” 3 blade, so they do more damage than most fixed heads… I completely understand having a less than stellar experience and wanting to shoot something else, it’s hard to override your own experience

My favorite fixed head is the GK xl, I have not shot them past 60yds, but they were more forgiving than exodus for me. That’s the actual reason I don’t only shoot exodus, they are fairly sensitive to form. The GK xl is very quiet in flight for what they are… excellent head all around, the thick main blade makes them extremely durable (I was worried about the aluminum ferrule until I had one in my hand

The standard iron will is crazy forgiving in flight, very well thought out head, but it cuts less tissue than an exodus, so I don’t know if you would love it

The kudu contour plus in 125gr is another great option at 1.25” main blade plus bleeders, the 150 is a wicked head at 1.4” main blade with the option of bleeders, and they are another great flying head with really good edge retention… if kudu built them in double bevel, I would still be shooting them, but I despise pulling them from foam
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
5,383
Location
oregon coast
I think it's just some animals take a while.


I put 1 3/4" mechanical through both lungs on a large bull, long story short within the first 30 seconds he was bedded in front of me, he was done, but took him a while yet to expire.


If you put a broadhead in the right spot, short of a bigger hole, more damage/bleeding, how can you expect them to die faster?


Same shot and they are done in a few seconds, or can be a few minutes. Not all animals have same will to live.
I watched a double lunged roosie cow take an hour to die, most of that on her feet, other cows were coming over and beating her up, she just wouldn’t go down

That was a little 1” SB, didn’t go anywhere, hardly bled, and took forever to die. I finally had him try to get another arrow in it, the rest of the herd was still there feeding and they all started to run as he snuck in, including the shot cow, and that 50yd run was all it took to kill her, but it was brutal to watch

Same head last year with my sis in law, elk was dead in 15 seconds, little 25yd run and hooves in the air.

I personally don’t like little cut heads unless it’s coming from a low energy setup, but they still generally kill fast.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
5,383
Location
oregon coast
Been playing with DaySix and I think they are there with the IW.


Lots of good broadheads, pick features you want.
I have 5 arrows in my quiver currently with 5 different BH's.
I’m going to shoot some day 6 (wider cut version) next year, I was worried they would be brittle, but that has not been the case. A little more resilient to moisture is nice too

How has edge retention been on them? They are a very nice looking head considering real world results and materials
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9,702
Location
Shenandoah Valley
How has edge retention been on them? They are a very nice looking head considering real world results and materials

I have been pleased with how long the edge holds up, haven't put them through an animal yet, but I had one that I put through a rhinoblock a half dozen times and it would still shave hair, that's as scientific as I got on the edge retention. I was pleased, that's similar to my experience with IW.

The radius edge can make them a little harder to sharpen depending on what you use.

They definitely don't rust as fast as IW.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
5,383
Location
oregon coast
I have been pleased with how long the edge holds up, haven't put them through an animal yet, but I had one that I put through a rhinoblock a half dozen times and it would still shave hair, that's as scientific as I got on the edge retention. I was pleased, that's similar to my experience with IW.

The radius edge can make them a little harder to sharpen depending on what you use.

They definitely don't rust as fast as IW.
I have a little 5” section of arrow with an insert that I use to sharpen my GK’s so it makes it like sharpening a knife, gives you a little handle to use while sharpening, and just use a worksharp guided field sharpener, so If you can sharpen a pocket knife, you can sharpen a radius edge broadhead as easily

Usually just use the finest grit side, the ceramic, then the little strop on the side and get the GK’s really sharp in short order.
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9,702
Location
Shenandoah Valley
I have a little 5” section of arrow with an insert that I use to sharpen my GK’s so it makes it like sharpening a knife, gives you a little handle to use while sharpening, and just use a worksharp guided field sharpener, so If you can sharpen a pocket knife, you can sharpen a radius edge broadhead as easily

Usually just use the finest grit side, the ceramic, then the little strop on the side and get the GK’s really sharp in short order.

At times I have done same.



Usually pull blades and use fancy sharpener thingy, it's old now, but works well. Clamps blade and has guides to hold stones on rods. Takes a lot longer, but I feel better about it.
 

Shawn_Guinn

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 18, 2018
Messages
126
I’ve had good luck with tooth of the arrow standards and the best flying fixed heads with just a chunk of a whole left in game I’ve ever shot were trophy taker ATAC but quality since trophy taker was sold is questionable. The best flying fixed heads are gonna be compact without a lot of extra cut. There’s no perfect scenario every broad head and arrow weight is a trade off. You gotta make a call and shoot what strength you want in a head. In my camp this year 4 elk were killed, 3 with kudu fixed heads one was a far back shot she made it a couple hundred yards and died good blood the others were recovered within eye sight none were perfect shots. The last spike was killed on a frontal with a sevr 1.5 it was absolutely devastating that was the longest shot of the group at 25 yards. My take away is shit happens when you shoot elk pick a sharp head tune it up and hunt.
 

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