What's your lightest arrow for hunting?

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Jon_G

Jon_G

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So I'm trying the new easton 4mm this year. My setup will be the 55gr halfout and 125gr field point for general practice; the hunting setup will be a glue-in Evolution broadhead of comparable total weight. I'm normally a 5mm guy and the only reason I'll be trying the 4mm is this glue in option for the Evolutions. The front end components for 4mm arrows are the weak point, IMO.
Stupid question incoming. What kind of glue do you use for the glue in points? I imagine you will no longer be able to remove the broadheads? If so, what is the purpose in that?
 

nphunter

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Stupid question incoming. What kind of glue do you use for the glue in points? I imagine you will no longer be able to remove the broadheads? If so, what is the purpose in that?

The best thing I've found it to use Kimsha hot melt, they can be installed or removed in about 30 seconds with a small torch or a little longer with a lighter. I'm also using the Evolution glue in 4mm broadheads.
I really enjoy the glue in stuff, I don't think I will go back any time soon, It makes building arrows super quick. I also switched to ez vanes which are a single piece vane system from austrailia and they are great as well. I can build an arrow and be shooting it in about 5 minutes start to finish.

I stopped using the evolution field points and think they are a waste of money. They get hung up in bag targets too easily. I bought some 4mm glue in target points on eBay and cut them down to 160gr and they work great.
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Jon_G

Jon_G

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The best thing I've found it to use Kimsha hot melt, they can be installed or removed in about 30 seconds with a small torch or a little longer with a lighter. I'm also using the Evolution glue in 4mm broadheads.
I really enjoy the glue in stuff, I don't think I will go back any time soon, It makes building arrows super quick. I also switched to ez vanes which are a single piece vane system from austrailia and they are great as well. I can build an arrow and be shooting it in about 5 minutes start to finish.

I stopped using the evolution field points and think they are a waste of money. They get hung up in bag targets too easily. I bought some 4mm glue in target points on eBay and cut them down to 160gr and they work great.
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Nice setup! I had no clue you can glue in broadheads and field points. I will definitely look into that but I'm not sure if I can use hot melt for field points and inserts according to the owner of my local shop. He said the range we have absolutely requires glued in inserts because the targets are just old rugs stacked one on top of another and I will lose my insert in there. I guess that goes for my field points too. I will ask the people that run that range what they think of that
 

nphunter

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Nice setup! I had no clue you can glue in broadheads and field points. I will definitely look into that but I'm not sure if I can use hot melt for field points and inserts according to the owner of my local shop. He said the range we have absolutely requires glued in inserts because the targets are just old rugs stacked one on top of another and I will lose my insert in there. I guess that goes for my field points too. I will ask the people that run that range what they think of that

You could always epoxy in a couple field points any just use those as practice arrows.
 

2Stamp

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Stupid question incoming. What kind of glue do you use for the glue in points? I imagine you will no longer be able to remove the broadheads? If so, what is the purpose in that?
Kimsha hot melt. I use it on all my inserts for traditional and compound set ups.
 
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Nice setup! I had no clue you can glue in broadheads and field points. I will definitely look into that but I'm not sure if I can use hot melt for field points and inserts according to the owner of my local shop. He said the range we have absolutely requires glued in inserts because the targets are just old rugs stacked one on top of another and I will lose my insert in there. I guess that goes for my field points too. I will ask the people that run that range what they think of that
Hot melt is a type of glue...it's just thermal set instead of chemical set. It's by no means a foregone certainty that a hot-melted insert will get lost in that type of target, but it is true that hot melt is typically less secure than epoxy. After the insert is installed, no one will be able to tell what type of glue was used, but it's probably best to respect the shop owner's wishes (or bring your own portable target if he will allow that).
 
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I use regular easton hot melt.


I gob it on my points, but even victory RIP shafts that people generally have issues getting inserts to stick with epoxy I dont have issue. I do put the shafts in about an inch and a half of acetone for a few minutes after I square them. But, when I change my mind, I boil some water, put it in a thermos, let the shafts sit for a minute or two and can pull the points.
 

Okie-hunter

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I haven’t shot an elk with this setup yet. That being said after shooting 2 deer with a 410gr arrow @283fps through 2 large bodied deer I wouldn’t hesitate to. Both shots quartering away and both shots got complete pass through hitting opposite side shoulder blade. As with any arrow weight you can run in to problems if you get into elk shoulder bone.
 
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Jon_G

Jon_G

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I haven’t shot an elk with this setup yet. That being said after shooting 2 deer with a 410gr arrow @283fps through 2 large bodied deer I wouldn’t hesitate to. Both shots quartering away and both shots got complete pass through hitting opposite side shoulder blade. As with any arrow weight you can run in to problems if you get into elk shoulder bone.
What draw weight are you shooting if I may ask?
 
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Jon_G

Jon_G

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27.5” 70# Bow is a Hoyt VTM 31.
Ah OK. I was trying to see how you get to 283. I'm at 270 but 27 inch draw and 65lb. My bow was initially set for 27.5 but 27 felt a bit better. 65 weight is what my bad shoulder is accepting at the moment so I'll have to leave that there. After like 80 shots the other day my shoulder was begging for a rest. Took a few days off after that lol
 

Okie-hunter

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Ah OK. I was trying to see how you get to 283. I'm at 270 but 27 inch draw and 65lb. My bow was initially set for 27.5 but 27 felt a bit better. 65 weight is what my bad shoulder is accepting at the moment so I'll have to leave that there. After like 80 shots the other day my shoulder was begging for a rest. Took a few days off after that lol
Shoot what’s comfortable for you! 270 will do the job just fine. A good sharp broadhead with a reasonable cutting diameter (not outrageously large) will smoke em.
 

Ho5tile1

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I hunt with black eagle rampage arrows .250 spine 28 inches ctc ethics inserts halo lighted nocks iron will single bevel 100 grain head total arrow weight is 550 grains 15% foc out of 81 pound Mathews at 29 inche draw. I’ve had great success with these my chrono shows them going 287 fps yes that’s the lightest I hunt with sry I didn’t read it all I don’t hunt elk yet I’m on the wrong side of the country but plan to in the next few years and that’s what I will use still fast and can’t reach out and touch someone…


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Jon_G

Jon_G

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I hunt with black eagle rampage arrows .250 spine 28 inches ctc ethics inserts halo lighted nocks iron will single bevel 100 grain head total arrow weight is 550 grains 15% foc out of 81 pound Mathews at 29 inche draw. I’ve had great success with these my chrono shows them going 287 fps


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That thing sounds like a straight missile! 81 lbs is insane lol
 

Ho5tile1

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That thing sounds like a straight missile! 81 lbs is insane lol

They do the trick for sure but it’s over kill for these northwest Florida and south Alabama deer. But years ago I had issues with lighter arrows and mechanical heads not always just to many to stick with them. Since moving to this zero issues no matter where I hit. I believe they would go through 3 of these deer standing side by side. I shot a buck in Illinois 4 years back with this setup but it was only 77 pounds then and it zipped through that 250 pound buck like butter he made it 50 yards.


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Wolf13

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For glue ins I am using gorila glue. So far no issues and it’s dirt cheap. Little disappointed in the last evolution heads I got as they had some chattering and were very dull. The mechanicals are a pain to sharpen, but got them to where I’m comfortable. May give the Valkyrie system a try next. I won’t go back to epoxy, as I like being able to cut my arrows, put them together, and be shooting in minutes. Gave the EZ vanes a try and so far they are a damn success. Twelve bare shafts from start to finish and shooting in 20 min? Sign me up.
 

Ho5tile1

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I use the blue cool melt on my inserts and have had no issues with them pulling out even in bag and foam targets


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Jon_G

Jon_G

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I use the blue cool melt on my inserts and have had no issues with them pulling out even in bag and foam targets


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I have never shot at any other range besides my local club but it seems like it's one of the only ones to use old carpet pieces stacked up together as targets. There has to be hundreds in there forming compressed to form a huge 5 foot square. I was told there's no way I can use anything there besides expoxy. Anything else and I can kiss inserts and field points goodbye because I'm not getting them out. The owner of the closest bow shop we have is who told me that. I do need to ask the club members if this is true but from the looks of the targets I think it may be.
 

Ho5tile1

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I have never shot at any other range besides my local club but it seems like it's one of the only ones to use old carpet pieces stacked up together as targets. There has to be hundreds in there forming compressed to form a huge 5 foot square. I was told there's no way I can use anything there besides expoxy. Anything else and I can kiss inserts and field points goodbye because I'm not getting them out. The owner of the closest bow shop we have is who told me that. I do need to ask the club members if this is true but from the looks of the targets I think it may be.

Yea that’s one thing I have not shot them into so he may be right. Before I glue them in I take a wire brush for a gun and score the inside of the arrow then clean it with that isopropyl alcohol or whatever it’s called. I know the epoxy iron will sales to put there titanium sleeve on with is super tuff I tried to get a few off some older arrows to save some cash and yea that wasn’t gonna happen without destroying them..


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